Sari

Kuruppur textile was an exquisite creation of the weavers of Tanjore in the south, an art which is unfortunately lost today. The technique of its production involves excellence in weaving the jari thread in the weft with the warp of the cotton fibre, dyeing it in resist and then overprinting it. Generally dyed with manjishtha (Rubia Cordifolia or Indian Madder), it has a deep maroon or brownish red colour though, occasionally undyed Kuruppur material in natural shade is also available.

The existing examples show that the weavers and dyers were able to print fine and intricate designs in the resist technique even on jari materials. This process of dyeing subdued the brightness of the gold, providing a rich yet soft and subtle effect, unequalled by any other fabric woven in gold.

The technique is quite unique and will require considerable effort to revive it.
This sari is richly decorated with geometrical and floral designs, both in the pallu and the ground. The pallu is identical at both the ends. A broad band filled with a row of an elegant floral motif is placed in the centre of the pallu while several bands of different designs are arranged on either side along its width. A jal design in square pattern with star motifs covers the field between one foot broad decorative border along its length. The sari first prepared in natural fabric with jari work, is resist dyed in red and is printed in green colour. The sari is much bigger in width than the normal sari. It is possible that it was draped as an intricately arranged kashta requiring greater width of the sari.

Developed probably during the rule of the Bhoslas of Tanjore, it added one more exquisite variety to the already existing vast range of textiles in India. Besides the saris, pagdi pieces of this material were also produced in this fabric.