Summer Costume with Mutton Sleeves

In 1894 the Bazar asserted that: “Since we know about and appreciate the value of physical activity, and since we have elevated games into sports, fashion too has created something new and sexy for this arena”. Lawn tennis, rowing, mountaineering and horseback riding found more and more proponents, reinforcing the need for suitable clothes in which a concentration on material and the renunciation of ornament were at the forefront—as is the case with this linen costume. The back of this well tailored jacket is made of six form fitting sections. The middle seam is open at the hip and the tails are bell-shaped. A long, curved bust dart gives form to the front and the arching pocket insert and curve-cut seams emphasize a relation to Art Nouveau. Short lapels frame the neckline and the jacket fastens with a mother-of-pearl button. The sleeves, far set at the shoulder, are narrow at the wrists. The skirt, made of five lengths of fabric, is ruffled only slightly in front, the majority of fabric is relegated to the back, where it fastens with hook and eyes. The waistband is reinforced with webbing, a technical innovation in tailoring.