The five senses (taste)

The Dutch artist Jan Dirksz Both (c. 1615-52) was a near-contemporary of Rembrandt, but could not be more different from him stylistically. Coming from the more Catholic-influenced Utrecht, he probably trained with the famous Caravaggio follower Gerrit van Honthorst. Although he executed 17 documented etchings, Both was predominantly a landscape painter, and he collaborated closely with one of the greatest exponents of the genre, Claude Lorrain, on two series of large idyllic landscapes during his period in Rome (1637-41). Also in Italy he was closely associated with the so-called <em>bamboccianti </em>(followers of Pieter van Laer, Il Bamboccio, ‘ugly doll’), focussing on picturesque genre scenes with bucolic, often low-life figures. On his return to Utrecht Both concentrated on landscape paintings.

The original works inspiring these etchings are paintings by Jan Both's bother Andries. These would date from 1641 or earlier, as Andries tragically drowned in a canal that year while returning from festivities in that year, and Jan himself died prematurely in 1652.

With its origins in antiquity and subsequently in Christian thinking, the depiction of the five senses became a popular theme in the 17th century; it is often a sub-text of still-life painting. In late 16th and early 17th century renditions, classicised female personifications of the senses were favoured, e.g. Jan Saenredam’s brilliant <em>Allegory of sight and of the art of painting</em> (Te Papa 2011-0001-1). However, the theme was later democratised to embrace peasantry and these are probably the most celebrated examples, mentioned both in the <em>Grove Dictionary of Art</em> entry on Both and by Sheila D. Muller, <em>Dutch Art: An Encyclopedia.</em>

Te Papa purchased a set of the five senses in 2015. What distinguishes them is their outstanding execution and drawing, and the quality of impression, as well as their strong sense of earthy realism and sometimes coarse humour, belied by their technical delicacy. In <em>Taste</em>, pancakes are being served, with a peasant tearing into one on the viewer’s right; in the foreground a child denied a pancake (was it snatched?) tearfully wrestles with another who devours one. The cook has a comically pompous, majestic air. The explanatory poem in Dutch translates thus:

<em>     Little Greta hadn’t even tasted her pancake</em><em>     When Pete’s glutton of a son made off with it.</em>
<em>     Big Lou grinds the flour between his molars</em>
<em>     And sifts it through his gullet into his gut.</em>

An obvious comparison - and a likely influence on both Boths - is Rembrandt's etching <em>The pancake woman, </em>1635 (Te Papa 1869-0001-415).

Sources:

Sheila D. Muller (ed.), <em>Dutch art: an encyclopedia</em> (New York, 1997)

Anna Rigg, 'Taste, touch, see, hear and smell – sensory impressions with the Both brothers', https://blog.tepapa.govt.nz/2016/03/22/taste-touch-see-hear-and-smell-sensory-impressions-with-the-both-brothers/

Wikipedia, 'Jan Dirksz Both', https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jan_Dirksz_Both

Dr Mark Stocker   Curator, Historical International Art   August 2018