The Community of Puan Cloth Weavers

Weaving is a way of life in the Mizo village of Lengpui

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Aizawl City (2019-06-24)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weaving in Mizoram

The name Mizoram, a state in the north east of India, bordering Bangladesh and Myanmar, is derived from the combination of the words Mizo and Ram, one naming its people and the other meaning ‘land’. Between the 16th and 18th century, multiple migrations from South Asia made Mizoram the state most populated with tribal communities of different ethnic origins. Under these circumstances cultural signatures are an important way of differentiating each one.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lengpui Airport (2019-06-26)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Lengpui Airport welcomes you with decor paying homage to the Puan weavers of Mizoram, with various motifs lining walkways to and from the airstrip.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bada Bazaar cloth market (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Puan textiles of Mizoram are a way of life for the Mizo people. Through different motifs and colours, intrinsically woven on backstrap loin looms (Kuttah) or frame looms, they are a reflection of the rich culture and environs of the state.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Aizawl City (2019-06-24)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A view of the dense Aizawl city, the largest in Mizoram and also its capital.

The city grows vertically rather than horizontally owing to its terrain, with some unique architecture.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Aizawl City (2019-06-24)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The narrow sloping streets of the city are lined with vertically growing buildings on either side.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bada Bazaar cloth market (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Markets in Aizawl

Lengpui is the first village one encounters in Aizawl as it is where the airport is located. The terrain here is flatter than elsewhere and as one starts going up the winding roads towards the city of Aizawl, it sprawls vertically rather than horizontally. The city of Aizawl is fairly dense with narrow sloping streets with buildings on both sides.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lengpui Village, Mizoram (2019-06-24)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Lengpui village is also where you find the loin loom weavers making Puan.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bada Bazaar tailors (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tailors from various communities and even from other states have set up shop in the upper level at the Bada Bazaar, with the impressive view of Aizawl City behind them.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bada Bazaar cloth market (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A variety of Puan cloth is sold in the main market in Aizawl.

The shopkeepers rent the shop or Dawr from the local government at Rs. 1700 per month.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Themtlemg shuttle (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The Weavers Home in Lengpui

The backstrap loin loom weavers work on Puan weaving by setting up looms in the multipurpose rooms of their homes, usually against the larger windows of the house for better lighting while working. Frame loom establishments can be found in areas like Zuangtui, where the weavers live and work.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft- tailoring unit (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Community work is an important facet of life as tribal identities are held proudly and collectively.

A gracious way of interacting and the harmony of family life that goes on at many levels in the same spaces, is a common feature in Mizoram.

The state also boasts of a high literacy rate for women.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Weaving in the multi-purpose space (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Loin loom Puan weaver, Lalchhanhimi, with the loom called kuttah set up in her house, while her husband makes some burmese tea in the kitchen in the background.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lalchhanhimi, the loin loom weaver (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Lachhanhimi takes advantage of the light penetrating through the large window of the house to help her see her work better, a good way to also connect with the occasional passer-by.

The window also doubles up as a
spot to relax after a long day's work.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn winding (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Seen here winding the yarn into a ball with the aid of a charkha wheel set-up in the multipurpose space in her house. A yarn bowl is kept handy to collect the wound yarn and an ashtray for throw-away scraps.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lalchhanhimi's family (2019-06-24)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Lalchhanhimi's daughter-in-law carries her baby girl in a cloth woven by her.

While her daughters-in-law can help with winding yarn and other odd jobs, they aren't trained in the actual weaving.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft (2019-06-25) by Tauhtauhi on the loom, Ruatruati standing behindDastkari Haat Samiti

K. Lalmuanpuii's frame weaving workshop, the Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft.

Seventeen frame weavers live and work in this workshop set-up and have formed quite a close-knit community amongst themselves.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lunch break (2019-06-25) by Tauhtauhi, Ruatruati, SanglianiDastkari Haat Samiti

The weavers lunch break is usually a pot luck they have prepared themselves comprising of rice, dal, curries, fish, and veggies, some of which are grown in the yard of the workshop.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Kitchen garden (2019-06-25) by MawipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

A crop of pumpkins, grown by the weavers to use in their daily cooking. The pumpkin leaves are collected to make pakodas, while waiting for the pumkins to be ready for consumption.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn winding (2019-06-25) by K. LalmuanpuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

K. Lalmuanpuii winding yarn on the charkha at the frame loom unit, Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft, that she also runs.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

K. Lalmuanpuii with her weavers- Thanga, Mawipuii, Sangliani, Sangi, Tauhtauhi, Ruatruati, Chhawnvunga, Neihpuia, Sawhmuka, Lianpuii, Mawizuali, Momokhai, Minipuii, Mawitei at the frame loom unit, Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Starting the weaving (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Puanchei, backstrap weaving of Mizoram here:
- Process
- Products

Market for Puanchei
Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly, Jui Tawade
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Loin loom- Lalchhanhimi
Frame looms- Thanga, Mawipuii, Sangi, Sangliani, Tauhtauhi, Ruatruati, Chhawnvunga, Neihpuia, Sawhmuka, Lianpuii, Mawizuali, Momokhai, Minipuii, Mawitei
Ground Facilitator: K. Lalmuanpuii, Jui Tawade
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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