Puanchei Process

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn bowl (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Preparing Yarn For Weaving

There are many weaving processes practiced in India, from fully mechanized looms, power looms, jacquard looms, manually operated frame looms, pit looms and the oldest, the backstrap loom, where the weaver sits on the floor with a simple frame placed upright in front. Women are the practitioners of this method everywhere.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn shops at Bada Bazaar (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The yarn for weaving is not local and come from other places like Guwahati. The wholesalers in the market in turn sell the yarn to the weavers.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn shops at Bada Bazaar (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The yarn for weaving is not local and come from other places like Guwahati. The wholesalers in the market in turn sell the yarn to the weavers.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn bowl (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Yarn wound on a winder, kept in a bowl handy next to the loom for the motifs thread work, the ashtray for throwing away any stray or cut strands.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Porcupine Quill (2019-06-26)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A porcupine quill is used to untangle any wayward yarn during the loin loom weaving process.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bamboo and wooden sticks (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The different kinds and sizes of bamboo and wooden sticks used for the loin loom weaving.

When not in use the sticks are tied together and stored upright in a corner along with other utility objects like umbrellas.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bamboo for the backstrap and Themtleng (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The backstrap is held in place by a bamboo, inserted through the warp, with grooves at the end to strap it through.

The backstrap itself is made from dried buffalo skin. A special shuttle called the Themtleng made from the wood of Meille tree is used to tighten the weave.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bamboo and wooden sticks (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The different kinds and sizes of bamboo and wooden sticks used for the loin loom weaving.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn arranged for Warp for the loin loom (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Backstrap Loin Loom

The traditional way of weaving in Mizoram is the loin loom technique of weaving, where the weaver straps the loom on herself at the waist with bamboo rods holding the yarn in place for the warp. The warp is is manually wound around these rods, and also for the shuttle for the weft.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Themtlemg shuttle (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

A special shuttle called the Themtleng, made from the wood of the Meihle tree is used to tighten the weave, while a wooden piece with grooves called the Tukkrek holds strands of the warp yarn in place.

A porcupine quill is kept handy to untangle any wayward yarn during the weaving process. Motifs are created with thread work tied to the weave from the reverse side.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn arranged for Warp for the loin loom (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The yarn for the loin loom is manually arranged around the bamboos set at length of about 2 meters with the maximum width of 25 inches.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn arranged for Warp for the loin loom (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The various colors to be used in weaving are arranged in the desired pattern.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn arranged for Warp for the loin loom (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

A maximum width of only 25 inches can be worked on a loin loom.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Winding yarn for Weft (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Yarn is wound by hand over a bamboo stick by rolling it. Two balls of yarn are rolled simultaneously over the stick.

The two balls of yarn to be wound around the bamboo is kept in a yarn bowl and rolled around the stick.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Winding yarn for Weft (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

A stone wrapped in some paper is kept as a weight in the bowl so that the yarn bowl doesn't topple while rolling.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Stone weight for Winding yarn for Weft (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The paper wrapped around the stone helps prevent the yarn cutting against the stone.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Bamboo inserted through the warp yarn (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Bamboo sticks are inserted through the yarn of the warp keeps the yarn in place for the weaving and also useful for lifting the work to rotate the warp

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Tukrek (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Wooden pieces with grooves called Tukrek in the local language are used to hold sections of the warp yarn in place to avoid tangling. A porcupine quill is used to further untangle any wayward yarn.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: The Loin loom (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

The loin loom all set to begin weaving.

The warp wrapped around the bamboo sticks the yarn rolled on the shuttle for the weft, the dried buffalo skin backstrap fixed in place and the porcupine quill handy to untangle any wayward yarn.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Starting the weaving (2019-06-26) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Once the tension is right, the yarn of the weft is passed through to check the tension of the whole arrangement.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Themtlemg shuttle (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

A special shuttle called the Themtleng made from the wood of Meille tree is used to tighten the weave.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: A peek into the weaver's house from the street (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Lachhanhimi takes advantage of the light penetrating through the large window of the house to help her see her work better, a good way to also connect with the occasional passer-by.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-24) by LalchhanhimiDastkari Haat Samiti

Threads tied to make a motif between the weave, tied on the reverse side.

The thread work motif created in between the weave as seen from the right side of the already woven section on the loom.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25) by LianpuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

Frame Loom Weaving Process

Yarn for the warp is is wound on a warping drum with threads pulled from bobbins of various colours arranged on a stand in a way the pattern has to evolve. The yarn is then rolled around a wooden beam wrapped in paper which is the set on the frame loom. Unlike the loin loom, in this version, the warp yarn is passed through reeds and heddles to set the design in place. The heddles are tied to the bamboo below for the footwork, which aids in weaving. The number of bamboos depends on the type of cloth being woven, 5 for twill, 4 for double thread-work and 2 for single thread-work. Motifs are created in the same manner as is in the loin loom from the reverse side.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn winding (2019-06-25) by Tauhtauhi- winding Mawipuii- handing the yarnDastkari Haat Samiti

An upcycled yarn winder made by the weavers with a repurposed bicycle tyre and charkha for a faster and easier winding process.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Arranging yarn for the Warping drum (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Yarn wound on spindles is arranged on a wooden frame, the colours arranged according to the design to be created.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Arranging yarn for the Warping drum (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The threads pulled forward from the bobbin arrangement and wound around a warping drum as per the said design.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Warping drum (2019-06-25) by MawipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

Rolling the warp drum as the yarn is wound around it in the particular design.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Warping drum (2019-06-25) by MawipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

The yarn goes around the drum and is is rolled around a wooden beam wrapped in paper, which is then installed on the loom.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Reed and String heddles (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Each thread of the warp passes through the reed and heddles to set it in place for the design.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Reed and String heddles (2019-06-25) by TauhtauhiDastkari Haat Samiti

The heddles are tied to the bamboos below for the footwork, which aids in the weaving.

The number of bamboos depends on the type of cloth being woven.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Weft yarn (2019-06-25) by SanglianiDastkari Haat Samiti

Sangliani, the weaver, adjusting the spindle shooting the weft yarn through the weave for a tighter output

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25) by LianpuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

Threads tied to make a motif between the weave, tied on the reverse side with the finished pattern seen from the right side of the puan.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: The weaver (2019-06-25) by MawizualiDastkari Haat Samiti

The weavers each have their own set of headphones as they listen to different kinds of music, ranging from local to pop, creating their own rhythms while weaving.

One will often find a sandalwood paste on their face; they say it is the best way to take care of their skin.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25) by MawizualiDastkari Haat Samiti

Tying threads on the reverse side of the work to make motif designs. The shuttles with the different threads for the weft hang from the side of the loom, handy for whenever needed.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: The loom workspace (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A neatly organised loom workspace with accessories, spindles, even wrist watches hanging on the side of the frame.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Tawlhloh pattern (2019-06-25) by NeihpuiaDastkari Haat Samiti

Neihpuia, the weaver, weaving the Tawlhloh pattern on the frame loom. Traditionally this pattern was worn by warrior clans.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn for the hand thread work (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Yarn bundles on a rod above the weaving work are kept handy for the thread work to create motifs in middle of the weave.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Yarn for the hand thread work (2019-06-25) by MawipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

Pulling yarn from the yarn bundles arranged on a rod on the loom to create motifs in middle of the weave.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25) by MinipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

Threads to make a motif between the weave are neatly tied up and tightened with the shuttle of the loom tied on the reverse side.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tying threads on the reverse side of the work to make the Siniar motif design on the Tawlhloh pattern.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The thread work made by hand through the weave making the Lenbuangthuan motif here.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Hand thread work motif (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Threads as seen on the reverse side of the puan, with the motif revealed on the right side. The Siniar motif seen in this design.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Front and back sides of the puan showing the thread work motif detailing (2019-06-24)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Threads tied to make a motif between the weave, tied on the reverse side with the finished pattern seen from the right side of the puan.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Folding and packing (2019-06-25) by MawipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

Finishing and Tailoring

After the weaving process, the woven Puan is meticulously folded and packed, ready to be transported to the tailoring unit. The cloth is designed and woven at the loom in a way that when cut to precise dimensions can be used to make particular sized products like bags.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Folding and packing (2019-06-25) by MawipuiiDastkari Haat Samiti

The woven Puan meticulously folded and packed, ready to be transported to the tailoring unit.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft- tailoring unit (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Cloth designed and woven at the loom in a way that when cut to precise dimensions can be used to make particular sized products like bags.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Lenbuang Handloom and Handicraft (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The craftsman make sling bags from the woven puan cloth at the tailoring unit.

Puanchei: Backstrap weaving of Mizoram: Puanchei (2019-06-25)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Puanchei, backstrap weaving of Mizoram here:
-The Community of Puan Cloth Weavers
-Products

Market for Puanchei
Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly, Jui Tawade
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Loin loom- Lalchhanhimi
Frame looms- Thanga, Mawipuii, Sangi, Sangliani, Tauhtauhi, Ruatruati, Chhawnvunga, Neihpuia, Sawhmuka, Lianpuii, Mawizuali, Momokhai, Minipuii, Mawitei
Ground Facilitator: K. Lalmuanpuii, Jui Tawade
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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