Alceu Penna: the illustrator of Brazilian fashion

Alceu Penna: pictures of the artist's life (2015) by Ivan PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Drawing, girl in hat, striped blouse and skirt (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Fashion Icon

Costume designer, illustrator, artist, and designer, Alceu Penna was a trendsetter who influenced generations with his daring designs and vibrant colors. In the years between the 1930s and 1970s he become a Brazilian fashion icon, making history and influencing not just the country's fashion but the very identity of the Brazilian people.

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Alceu de Paula Penna (1915–80) was born in the small city of Curvelo in the State of Minas Gerais, where he lived until he was a young man. In the image, Santo Antonio's Church, at Curvelo's downtown.

Sketch, man in blue dungarees (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

In January 1932, Alceu moved to Rio de Janeiro to study architecture at the National School of Fine Arts. He would live in Rio for the rest of his life.

Drawing, two girls with blouse (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

While still pursuing his studies, Alceu looked for work as an artist with Rio de Janeiro's magazines and newspapers.

The first to hire him, in 1933, was O Jornal, which published a series of his illustrations.

Drawing, black long dress (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

After this first job for "O Jornal," Alceu did illustrations for other newspapers and made a name for himself with articles on fashion and deportment.

He was a graphic artist who had a huge influence on Brazilian fashion, producing numerous drawings and sketches.

Many of these drawings appeared in publications with a nationwide circulation, particularly O Cruzeiro magazine .

Drawing, two girls with doves, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, long yellow strapless dress, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, dress with white details (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Drawing, girl in A-line skirt, twin set and hat (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Knitting and crochet (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

In addition to his
fashion drawings, he helped create a "Brazilian image," which
appeared on the front covers of renowned Brazilian magazines such as "O
Cruzeiro," "A Cigarra," and "Tricô e Crochê".

Study, crochet (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Knitting and crochet (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

"Little castle" (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

He also designed numerous sets and costumes for casino shows, the theater, cinema, and television, as well as costumes for samba schools, and prints for the textile industry and fashion collections by the likes of Rhodia and Ducal.

Six coats study (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Alceu's Girls

During the period from
the 1930s to the 1960s, Alceu wrote a fashion column for "O Cruzeiro"
magazine. From 1941 onward, once his column became weekly, his name and face
became even more famous.

Blouses and coats study (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

While working at O Cruzeiro, Alceu created a weekly series entitled Girls, which featured prominently in the magazine's weekly editions.

The Alceu's Girls, as they came to be known, were shown wearing the clothes seen every day on the streets of Rio de Janeiro, set against a backdrop of some of the city's classic settings, such as beaches, cinemas, dances, etc.

Sketch, two girls, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Sketch, girl in coat and glove, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Paris (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

A particular feature of his work was that his drawings switched between the playful and the sensual, constructing a model of fashion, beauty, and deportment that emphasized the Carioca woman and her attributes.

While working as a magazine columnist, Alceu made several international trips to attend haute-couture fashion shows, sketching the catwalk models and bringing new trends back to the Brazilian scene.

Drawing, two girls wearing black dress (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Drawing, girl with blouse and red and yellow bonnet (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Study, Brazilian Coffee (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Rhodia Collections

Early in 1960 Alceu
took part in an event promoted by "O Cruzeiro" magazine and the
French multinational Rhodia, where he designed clothes inspired by Brazilian
coffee for a fashion show.

Study, Brazilian Primitive (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

This event was a success and led to a partnership between Alceu and Rhodia—a company renowned for its fashion shows.

The company specialized in synthetic fabrics and, after introducing nylon in 1955, was launching a wide range of yarns and textures onto the Brazilian market

Brazilian Carnaval (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

In addition to his coffee collection, Alceu developed other themes for events organized by the brand.

Brazilian sun (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Following the Rhodia shows at the International Textile Industry Fair (FENIT), he started to make his mark on Brazilian fashion, using themes that sought to promote a Brazilian national identity.

Drawing, Brazilian Style (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Brazilian Nature (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

In the year of 1972 different artists and designers created prints and models with the theme Brazilian Nature </>.

Study, Summer of '72 drawing (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Sketch, black long sleve dress (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

The impish

Alceu Penna was immortalized in Brazilian fashion through his illustrations and designs, which conveyed the changing styles and tastes in national and international fashion through the decades, helping to create the Brazilian style. 

Drawing, dress with collar and pockets in green tone, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, girl in wide brim hat, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, girl in wide brim green hat (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Drawing, girl in pants, halterneck blouse and cloche hat, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, A-line dress and striped top, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, short, striped dress in several colors, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, white skirt and blue and white striped halterneck blouse, Alceu Penna, 1930/1970, From the collection of: Museu da Moda Brasileira
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Drawing, girl in hat, blouse with collar and bermuda (1930/1970) by Alceu PennaMuseu da Moda Brasileira

Credits: Story

House of the Marquise of Santos/Museum of Brazilian Fashion
Patricia Castro

Anita Mantuano Arts Foundation of Rio de Janeiro State/ Rio de Janeiro State Department of Culture</>
André Lazaroni

Museum Superintendent
Raphael Hallack Fabrino

Curatorship
Clara Paulino
Patricia Castro
Thais Pucu
Ingrid Fiorante

Composition
Clara Paulino
Laura Ghelman

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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