The Charm of the Kyoto International Manga Museum

Let’s visit the Kyoto International Manga Museum, a place that manga fans are sure to enjoy.

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A museum born in the historical city of Kyoto

Kyoto is home to many distinctive museums and art centers. In these places, occupying renovated historic buildings built between the Meiji and Showa periods, Japan’s past and present coexist comfortably together.

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

The Kyoto International Manga Museum (abbreviated “MM”) located near Karasuma Oike is one such place. Housed in the former Tatsuike Primary School building built in the early Showa period, it opened in 2006 as a new cultural facility specializing in manga and related materials that combines the functions of a museum and library.

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

The incredible “Wall of Manga”

The fact that this place is a museum will come as a surprise to anyone who steps into the building. Bookshelves packed with manga volumes and magazines from all times and places densely line the walls and hallways, a feature that is aptly named the “Wall of Manga.” Shōnen (boys’) manga on the first floor. Shōjo (girls’) manga on the second floor. Seinen (young adult) manga on the third floor. Manga on each floor are further organized by authors’ names according to the Japanese syllabary. Combined with the materials in closed shelves, the total number in the collection comes to about 300,000 items.

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main GalleryOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Even more surprising is the fact that nearly all of these items can be physically accessed, and visitors can freely read the books in the closed stacks as long as they remain within the facility. Walking through the building, you will encounter visitors in all sorts of positions—standing, lying down, and sitting—deeply engrossed in reading.

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main GalleryOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main GalleryOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

How such a strangely charming facility came to be

Seeing all this, the question of “Is this really a museum?” surfaces once again. I decided to ask this honest question to Mr. Yu Ito, a researcher at the Kyoto Seika University International Manga Research Center who was involved in establishing the Kyoto International Manga Museum, and who is also in charge of the museum archives and creating its special exhibitions.  (July 2020 interview)

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main GalleryOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Mr.Yu Ito(Researcher, International Manga Research Center, Kyoto Seika University)Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Ito: “You’re right, it’s surprising (laughs). This facility was founded around the year 2000, when the movement to study manga academically gained traction in Japan. It was initially envisioned as a manga archive building for research purposes. However, many people raised the opinion that it should be not only for academic research by specialists, but also a place that gives back to the public at large. Thus, it became the open museum like the one you see today.”

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main Gallery.An elementary school reinvented as a museum, resulting in an enjoyable space with a modern/retro atmosphere.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Even so, isn’t it too “open minded” for a museum to give anyone the freedom to handle the collection materials (manga), as well as to leave divisions between exhibition rooms and the rest of the space ambiguous? However, according to Ito, there were reasons for this approach as well.

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main Gallery.An elementary school reinvented as a museum, resulting in an enjoyable space with a modern/retro atmosphere.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Ito: “In fact, when the museum opened, three out of the five research staff were researchers with sociological interests.

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Main Gallery.An elementary school reinvented as a museum, resulting in an enjoyable space with a modern/retro atmosphere.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

In other words, there were a lot of people who studied manga expression but who were also simultaneously interested in changes in the social environment surrounding manga and how manga is received.”

"Space and Pose: in the Case of Kyoto International Manga Museum" (Manga Museum Studies, 2015) by Yu Ito, Mitsuhiro Sakakibara, and Ryuichi TanigawaOriginal Source: Photo by Takuya Matsumi Editorial design by Akane Onuki

 Thinking about manga culture using the methods of sociology

I want to introduce one of the unique studies Ito conducted. Apparently, in sociology, there is the slightly unorthodox research method  of shadowing a subject, and Ito used this method to survey the behaviors of MM visitors in the museum. 

"Space and Pose: in the Case of Kyoto International Manga Museum" (Manga Museum Studies, 2015) by Yu Ito, Mitsuhiro Sakakibara, and Ryuichi TanigawaOriginal Source: Photo by Takuya Matsumi Editorial design by Akane Onuki

In the “Manga Museum Studies” group of which Ito is a part, members conduct research focused on the “manner” in which people read manga in the museum.

"Space and Pose: in the Case of Kyoto International Manga Museum" (Manga Museum Studies, 2015) by Yu Ito, Mitsuhiro Sakakibara, and Ryuichi TanigawaOriginal Source: Photo by Takuya Matsumi Editorial design by Akane Onuki

Ito: “As a result, we were able to roughly categorize people into the 60 percent who used the space like a library and the 40 percent who came to see the exhibits or the building.

"Space and Pose: in the Case of Kyoto International Manga Museum" (Manga Museum Studies, 2015) by Yu Ito, Mitsuhiro Sakakibara, and Ryuichi TanigawaOriginal Source: Photo by Takuya Matsumi Editorial design by Akane Onuki

However, there was also a certain percentage of people of a type that didn’t fall into either category—locals who would come to reminisce about their childhood days when they attended Tatsuike Primary School or people who would take a short nap on the lawn and then leave.

"Space and Pose: in the Case of Kyoto International Manga Museum" (Manga Museum Studies, 2015) by Yu Ito, Mitsuhiro Sakakibara, and Ryuichi TanigawaOriginal Source: Photo by Takuya Matsumi Editorial design by Akane Onuki

It turns out that there are behaviors that aren’t motivated by manga. I call this type of visitor the ‘Park Type.’”

If the facility had been designed as a museum or library from the start, the recreational aspect of using the space as a park would not have emerged, Ito reflects. The decision to make valuing this unintentionally created “marginal space” a part of the museum’s policy is what allowed MM to take the form it does today.

The Earth Spider Conjures up Demons at the Mansion of Minamoto no Yorimitsu (1843) by 歌川国芳Original Source: Kyoto International Manga Museum

From ukiyo-e to popular comics: A collection of over 300,000 items

Of course, MM does not neglect its role as a research facility. It’s unexpected, given the array of popular comics on display—everything from Doraemon by Fujiko F. Fujio to Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba by Koyoharu Gotouge—but among the museum’s major archival materials, there’s an enormous collection of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) and fūshi-ga (satirical art) from the Edo period to the early Showa period. 

Great Battle between Vegetables and Fish(1859) (1859) by 歌川広景Original Source: Kyoto International Manga Museum

Toba-e (comic pictures) that caricaturize the ridiculous figures of people in the Edo period, humorous ukiyo-e that depict the current affairs of the era as though they were monsters or evil spirits,

”E-shimbun Nippon-chi”, No.1(1874)Original Source: Kyoto International Manga Museum

and fūshi-ga magazines from the Meiji period that express Japan’s rush into modernity through satirical comedy—such forms of expression can also be seen in current manga expression.

”Tokyo Puck”, Vol.25, No.2(1936)Original Source: Kyoto International Manga Museum

The large number of researchers from Japan and abroad who visit to conduct research on these materials constitute another face of MM.

Kyoto International Manga Museum, archiveOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Of MM’s collection of 300,000 items, about 250,000 are stored in a closed stack system. The stacks I toured during my visit were lined with manga magazines and rare standalone volumes. Most of these materials can be viewed by registering with the Research Reference Room. The museum is on its way to also becoming an international research center for the now-global field of manga research.

Kyoto International Manga Museum, archiveOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

The unique exhibitions also deserve attention

Let’s return to exploring the inside of the museum again. The gallery space is said to host special exhibitions three to four times per year. At the time of my visit, the exhibition on display (until September 27, 2020), titled “Aramata Hiroshi’s Grand Treasure Trove MANGA-ful, ” showcased the personal collection of Hiroshi Aramata, who has served as the museum’s second executive director since April, 2017.

“Aramata Hiroshi’s Grand Treasure Trove MANGA-ful”Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

It’s a unique exhibition that displays the diverse collection of a man known for the breadth of his knowledge and memory, starting with Aramata’s own original works, in cardboard boxes and on the walls.
“MANGA-ful treasures,” a term coined by Aramata, include manga that are “as good as buried in the trash unless someone finds them,” and express the value is that junk is intrinsically fun.

“Original Artworks SHIMA KOSAKU – Four Seasons –”Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

The exhibition “Original Artworks SHIMA KOSAKU – Four Seasons –,” which commemorates the donation to the museum of original artworks by Kenshi Hirokane, who is known for the Kachō Shima Kōsaku [Section Chief Kosaku Shima] series, was also on display (until July 31, 2020). The playful displays utilized elements of fun not often seen in typical museums, such as photo stand-ins and shutter blinds.

Object Hi no Tori (Phoenix)Original Source: ©︎ Tezuka Productions Photo by Makoto Ito

Permanent exhibitions that invite you into the world of manga

Neither are the permanent exhibitions to be missed. The “What is Manga?” exhibition explains the history of manga in Japan, the structure of the industry, and expressive techniques such as speech balloons and panel layouts. You can also see a huge sculpture of the Hi no Tori (Phoenix) as imagined by Osamu Tezuka, which was created using traditional Buddhist statue engraving techniques from Kyoto.

“What is Manga?” exhibition at the main gallery.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

“What is Manga?” exhibition at the main gallery.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Commemorative plaster casts “Manga Artists' Hands”.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

The display of “Manga Artists’ Hands,” containing over 100 plaster casts of the hands of manga artists and animators who have visited the museum,

Cafe “Maeda Coffee”. Make sure to have a look at the illustration on the walls, all drawn by manga artists who visited the museum.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

as well as the illustrations drawn directly on the walls of Maeda Coffee, the adjoining museum café by the first floor entrance, will make you feel unexpectedly closer to popular manga artists.

Cafe “Maeda Coffee”. Make sure to have a look at the illustration on the walls, all drawn by manga artists who visited the museum.Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Kyoto International Manga Museum, Manga StudioOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

See the miraculous work of manga artists up close!

MM also holds events such as workshops in which visitors can participate, performances of kamishibai (a traditional Japanese style of storytelling with pictures), and “Manga Studio” events where you can watch the creative process of active professional manga artists up-close.The “Manga Cooking” talk shows that include a live cooking demonstration by Tochi Ueyama, the manga artist behind Cooking Papa (Kodansha), and live drawing events that allow participants to observe popular manga artists at work, have been extremely popular among visitors.

Live drawing event, Katsuya Terada (2013) by Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9WILg3wnWI

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

A space that’s both international and open to locals

It’s a museum, but it also has charm that goes beyond the conventional scope of a museum. Simply walking through the modern-retro style Showa period building will give you a taste of times past. It’s not unusual for cosplayers, seeking the museum’s unique atmosphere, to visit for a photoshoot.

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

MM is such a part of the local community that it often serves as a practice site for amateur baseball and naginata (a form of martial art) classes after closing time. The description of the place as a “museum” or “art museum” tends to give off a solemn or imposing impression, but here you’ll find that there’s an atmosphere of openness and relaxation.

Mr. Yu Ito(Researcher, International Manga Research Center, Kyoto Seika University)Original Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

Toward a new style of museum beyond preconceived ideas

Ito: “On sunny days, there are a lot of people who take manga from the collection outside to read it on the lawn. This isn’t a rule we established as a part of the museum, but rather something that occurred naturally from the behavior of the visitors. We think of MM also as a space to experiment with a model for a new kind of cultural facility, as opposed to the post-modern institutions of the art museum and museum. Going forward, we want to continue to work with visitors and local people to create new things that aren’t bound by existing notions.”

Kyoto International Manga MuseumOriginal Source: Photo by Makoto Ito

As is widely known, Japan’s manga culture has had a significant impact on global pop culture. In the same manner, it may not be long before the manga-based, experimental community space of MM creates a stir in the global idea of the museum.

Credits: Story

Kyoto Interntional Manga Museum
Kyoto Seika University International Manga Research Center

Interview & Text: Taisuke Shimanuki
Photo: Makoto Ito
Edit: Natsuko Fukushima(BIJUTSU SHUPPAN-SHA CO., LTD.)
Supervisor: Hirohito Miyamoto(Meiji University)
Production: BIJUTSU SHUPPAN-SHA CO., LTD.
Written in 2020

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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