Jamón Ibérico: From the "Dehesa" to the Table

Jamón Ibérico is one of the most typical products in Spanish cuisine and is eaten by locals at almost any time of day.

It comes from the hind leg of the pig and is cured using processes that are regulated by the Spanish Quality Standard for Iberian Meat, Ham, Shoulder, and Loin (Royal Decree 4/2014). The front leg is called the "paleta," or shoulder, and is produced in the same way.

It is their diet of acorns, as well as the breed itself, that make Iberian pigs so unique. Acorns are rich in oleic acid and carbohydrates.

The "Montanera" Period

Acorns begin to fall from the trees with the arrival of autumn. The acorns on the Pyrenean oak and the Portuguese oak, which better tolerate the cold, are the first to fall. The acorns on the holm oak (which are the sweetest) are next, followed by those on the cork oak, known as "migueleñas."

The word "montanera" refers to both the acorn season—which generally runs from the end of September to March—and to the Iberian pigs' diet of acorns.

Salting and Washing

Once the pigs have been slaughtered and sectioned, usually in slaughterhouses near the drying rooms, the curing process begins.

The high-quality cuts are left to cool for at least 2 days, ready for the settling process. They are then salted, usually with sea salt. After they have been washed, they are left in a room to dry for a couple of days at a temperature of 39.2–41 °F.

Before this comes the shaping process. This is when the excess fat is removed to give each leg the right shape, and ensure that there is not too much distance between the outside of the ham and the meat itself.

In traditional drying rooms, there are 2 areas for curing the meat: in the higher part of the warehouse, and in the cellar, where the process of drying and maturing the meat continues.

The legs of ham are hung up individually by hand, taking into account factors such as the wind, temperature, and humidity level. The windows are opened and closed, and the legs of ham moved around as necessary.

These processes have been industrialized in recent years, with temperature- and humidity-controlled environments speeding up or slowing down curing times.

However, some of the most traditional, high-quality brands have continued to rely on traditional methods, and this commitment is reflected in the price.

The temperature during the settling phase is key to regulating the maturation process. This stage begins by salting the muscle mass, which slowly draws out the water. By the end of this process, the meat will have reached the desired consistency.

Warmer temperatures cause the meat to "sweat," with the fat melting and being absorbed into the muscle fibers.

Natural maturation avoids any variation in the curing process.

According to the Quality Standard, the minimum time for the curing process (counted from the day that the meat is salted) is between 600 and 730 days, depending on weight.

As long as they meet those requirements, it is up to individual producers to decide how long the legs of ham should remain in the cellar and when they are ready to be sold.

Difficulties in exporting this type of ham meant that it was unknown in other countries for many years, tantalizing any visitors to Spain who discovered it.

The export of pork products was prohibited for years in many countries because of a fear of spreading African swine fever.

From 1995 onward, when Spain was certified free of the disease, the international demand for Jamón Ibérico grew.

Jamón Ibérico de Bellota is currently exported to Canada, Japan, and the United States, which imposes limits on the number of exporting companies.

Slicing a ham is no easy task. On receiving an entire leg of ham as a gift, some people choose to take it to a butcher to have it sliced and wrapped.

In recent years, renowned ham producers have come up with ways of packaging sliced ham without compromising its quality, using packets that can be conveniently stored in the refrigerator for several months.

Tip: if you have forgotten to take the ham out of the fridge in time for it to reach room temperature, simply hold the packet under hot running water for a few seconds until the slices peel away from the plastic or the fat begins to change color.

If you're not planning to open it right away, you should store the ham in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

Before slicing the ham, wipe it with a dry cloth.

Ham that is going to be eaten within a few days (for example, in a restaurant), should be cut starting at the "maza" or upper part, with the leg hoof-up.

If the ham will be eaten over a few weeks, it is best to start with the "babilla" (on the other side), since this part absorbs less fat and may dry out more quickly.

Storing the Ham

The best way to store ham once it has been opened is to keep it covered with plastic wrap until you need it again.

The old custom of covering the exposed section with the fat that has been cut off is no longer commonplace.

Slicing the Ham: Should You Always Use a Knife?

Producers, restaurant operators, and food-lovers alike all argue that Jamón Ibérico de Bellota must always be cut with a knife to avoid damaging the fibers.

However, there has been a growing acceptance in recent years of the use of manual slicers that cut in a similar way to a traditional knife. One example of this is the legendary Berkel which, with over 100 years of history behind it, has traditionally been used for cutting cold meats.