The Primitive Way in Galicia

Walk in the footsteps of the first pilgrims to a Santiago de Compostela.

Snowy landscape near A Fonsagrada (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

The Primitive Way is so called as it is traditionally believed to be the oldest route to Santiago de Compostela. It links Oviedo and Santiago de Compostela and shares a lot of its paths with ancient Roman roadways.

Primitive Way (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

The first pilgrims to walk this route would have been from the local town or from the royal court in Oviedo. King Alfonso III and Queen Jimena were among these pilgrims, and they made their first pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 874 to offer a golden cross to the apostle Saint James the Greater.

Natural surroundings of A Fonsagrada (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Today, growing numbers of pilgrims are looking to rediscover this route between the Northern Way and the French Way, with which it merges in the town of Melide. This route crosses mountains, lush forests, historic towns, and a Roman city: Lugo.

Alto do Acevo (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

O Acevo

The Original Way enters Galicia through the mountainous town of O Acevo, at an altitude of 3,379 feet (1,030 m). From this point, it takes pilgrims 106 miles (171 km) to reach Santiago de Compostela. Shortly after leaving this town, the route forks with one path going via A Pobra de Burón and the other via A Fonsagrada.

Castle of A Pobra de Burón (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

A Proba de Burón

This is one of the most important medieval sites along the route from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela. The village was once classed as a burg (medieval fortress) and was the capital of the municipality of Burón until 1835, when A Fonsagrada became the capital. The ruins of the village's ancient fortress are a reminder of its former glory.

Fountain of A Fonsagrada (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

A Fonsagrada

This town was named after the sacred fountain in the town center: laFons Sacrata. It seems to be related to Saint James the Greater as there are many legends about the fountain and the care of pilgrims.

Montouto Hospital, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Montouto Hospital

The two diverging routes of the Original Way merge near the ruins of this ancient pilgrim hospital in the Montouto mountain range. This site has been uninhabited for over a century, and a prehistoric dolmen has been preserved nearby.

Church of Santa María de Vilabade (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

Vilabade

A small detour from the Way gives travelers the opportunity to visit the impressive Church of Santa María de Vilabade. The church has the status of a Bien de Interés Cultural, which is the heritage register in Spain. The church was built in the 15th century in a gothic style, but it also has baroque and neoclassical elements in its intriguing façade.

Tower of Castroverde (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

Castroverde

The keep of the ancient 14th-century fortress in Castroverde welcomes pilgrims to the municipality. It was owned by the Osorio y Moscoso family.

Natural environment in the municipality of Baleira (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

The lands of this municipality belong to many of the most important noble families in Galicia's history, such as the houses of Lemos and Altamira.

Monumental ensemble of Soutomerille (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Soutomerille

Before leaving Castroverde, travelers may come across the ancient abandoned hamlet of Soutomerille. This site features one of the most symbolic landmarks of all the Way routes in Galicia: a small chapel with a pre-Roman lattice that dates back to the early centuries when pilgrimages started.

Roman wall of Lugo: Torre da Mosqueira (260)Regional Government of Galicia

Lugo

The imposing Roman Walls of Lugo, a UNESCO World Heritage site, surround this historic city. With a perimeter of 1.4 miles (2.3 km), it is the only urban fortification of the Roman Empire that has its entire perimeter intact. The Original Way enters the city via the Door of Saint Peter (Puerta de San Pedro).

Cathedral of Lugo (1129)Regional Government of Galicia

The history of Lugo is marked by its importance in the Roman era, though later periods have also made a special contribution to the city's heritage. In the Cathedral of Santa María, different elements of Roman, Gothic, baroque, renaissance, and neoclassic styles merge together.

Lugo City Hall of Lugo (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Lugo's city hall (la Casa Consistorial de Lugo) is another of Lugo's most emblematic buildings. Designed by the architect Lucas Ferro Caaveiro, it is the epitome of Galician civic baroque architecture.

Lugo: Obispo Basulto street (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Before leaving the ancient city of Lugo via the Door of Saint James (Puerta de Santiago), pilgrims can explore the charming corners of one of the best-preserved cities in Galicia and visit the many Roman sites peppered across the city.

Roman temple of Santalla de Bóveda (3rd Century)Regional Government of Galicia

Santalla de Bóveda

Leaving Lugo, it is worth taking the time to take a little detour from the Way route to visit the mysterious temple of Santalla de Bóveda from the late Roman Empire. This structure is the only remnant of Roman ruins to be kept in such a good condition. The building features original paintings from the Roman Imperial period and a ritual pool.

Miliary of San Romao da Retorta (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

San Romao da Retorta

The next stage of the journey brings travelers to San Romao, where a replica of a Roman milestone from the time of Caligula's reign serves as a reminder that the Original Way traces the ancient Roman roads. The original milestone, which was found here, is on display in the Museum of the Ways to Santiago (Museo de los Caminos a Santiago) in Astorga.

To Ponte Ferreira (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

A Ponte Ferreira

The Way's legacy is sometimes discreet, but that does not make it any less relevant. This is a photo of the tiny medieval footbridge in A Ponte Ferreira. Travelers can imagine walking in the footsteps of history as pilgrimages have been made over this bridge for centuries.

As Seixas pilgrims hostel (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

The Original Way has dozens of lodgings belonging to the St. James Way Public Network of Hostels (la Red pública de Albergues del Camino de Santiago) in Galicia, where pilgrims can rest from long days of walking. The As Seixas hostel in Palas de Rei can be found 9 miles (14 km) outside the municipality of Melide.

Road in Vilouriz (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

Santiago de Vilouriz

The forests of Vilouriz in the river basin of the Furelos river mark the point where the Original Way meets the French Way.

Church of San Antolin de Toques (10th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

San Antolín de Toques

This ancient pre-Romanesque church in Toques, which was originally a monastery, is no longer included in the Way route. Pilgrims must take a small detour to visit it, but this magical site, which has been adapted to suit the difficult terrain, reminds travelers of this Way route's antiquity.

Church of Santa María de Melide (12th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

Melide

In Melide, the Original Way merges with the French Way. Travelers can discover this town's important history in the Terra de Melide Museum (Museo Terra de Melide). The Church of Santa María, which has been listed as a National Monument of Spain, is another point of interest. It has one of the small Roman alters which are preserved in Galicia, and its apse is decorated with Renaissance paintings.

Pilgrim entering the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (2007)Original Source: Axencia Turismo de Galicia

From Melide, pilgrims must follow the French Way for 33 miles (53 km) before finally reaching Santiago de Compostela. Having completed this centuries-old route, travelers get a taste of both the ancient Roman Empire and the Middle Ages.

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