Fashion of Ewha

Jobok, Ceremonial Courtier's Robe
1890 - 1910

This ceremonial courtier's robe, or jobok, which was worn by Hwang Cheol (黃鐵, 1864-1930), is an important artifact since its provenance is clearly known.

Geumgwan, Courtier's Ceremonial Hat
1890 - 1910

Geumgwan, meaning “golden crown,” was a type of yanggwan that was named for the gold plating used for the head circumference and rear, which were also decorated with vines, as well as the ornamental hairpin set across the headgear. Yanggwan refers to headgear designed with yang, or vertical lines, in the center of the headgear, with the number of lines representing the wearer’s rank. This particular gilt headgear, called oryanggwan, meaning yanggwan decorated with five vertical lines, was worn by first-rank government officials. It was worn by Hwang Cheol (黃鐵, 1864-1930).

Hol, Hand-held tablet
1890 - 1910

Hol, a hand-held table, was held by officials and used to record royal orders given by the king. Later, it became a ritual to carry hol. The materials used for the tablet differed according to the holder’s rank; ivory was used for first- to fourth-rank officials, and wood was for officials below fifth rank. It was used by Hwang Cheol (黃鐵, 1864-1930).

Paeok, Jade ornaments
1890 - 1910

Paeok, referring to jade ornaments, was hung around the waist with ceremonial attire. The clear clacking sound of jade ornaments was believed to ward off evil spirits, and eradicate evil thoughts. Blue artificial jade, called beoncheongok, was used to make paeok for first- to third-rank officials, and white artificial jade, called beonbaekok, for officials below fourth rank.

When wearing paeok, it was placed in a pouch so as not to be tangled by wind. It was worn by Hwang Cheol (黃鐵, 1864-1930).

Case of Jade Ornaments
1890 - 1910

This case was used to contain paeok, jade ornaments.

Hopaesul, Tassels of Identity Tablet
1864 - 1930

Hopaesul was hung on hopae, which were identification tags used by men during the Joseon dynasty. The materials used for hopae, the ornaments attached to the string, and its tassels were determined by the status of the holder. It was worn by Hwang Cheol (黃鐵, 1864-1930).

Sejodae, Fine Waistband
1864 - 1930

Sejodae, a band made by plaiting threads, is finer and narrower than gwangdahoe. This band was finished by attaching to its end a strawberry-shaped tassel, called ddalgisul, or a bar-shaped tassel, called bongsul, and was worn on outer robes. The color of the band differed according to the wearer’s rank; red was worn by first- to third-rank officials, and blue by fourth- to ninth-rank officials. It was worn by Hwang Cheol (黃鐵, 1864-1930).

Jobok, Ceremonial Robe of a Courtier
Joseon, late 19th century

This official robe was worn by courtiers at celebratory ceremonies, and was the most luxurious among the robes for courtiers. It was worn with a golden crown. The husu, or decorative cloth patch at the back of the robe, is embroidered with four pairs of cranes and clouds, and has two gilt rings attached to it. This type of robe was for the first and second rank of royal courtiers, while this particular article was worn by Heungseon Daewongun, father of King Gojong.

Jegwan, Courtier's Ritual Hat
1801 - 1900

Jegwan, or courtier's ritual hat was type of yanggwan that had vertical lines in the center of the hat. It is similar to courtier's ceremonial hat which was gilt, but jegwan merely was decorated with a gilt.

Hyungbae, Insignia Badge Featuring a Pair of Cranes
1801 - 1900

Hyungbae were attached on the chest and back of the working attire of officials to indicate the wearer’s rank. In the Joseon dynasty, they began to be used in 1454, the second year of King Danjong’s reign. Regarding patterns, winged animals were used for civil officials and land animals for military officers, following the conventions of China’s Ming Dynasty. The design underwent a few revisions and finally became standardized during the reign of King Gojong, when civil officials started to use twin cranes or a single crane and military officers used twin tigers or a single tiger.