The beret has today come to symbolize France overseas but it originally hails from the foot of the Pyrenees. It has been keeping the heads of Bearnais people warm and protected since the Middle Ages. Oloron-Sainte-Marie, in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques region, is one of the last remaining places in France where these iconic products are created. Let's find out how they are made at Laulhère, a historic company that's been going for almost 200 years!
A disputed origin
Although the fact is disputed in the southwest of France by the Basques and the Landais, the beret is indeed Bearnais. The shepherds of the Pyrenees were inspired by the capelines worn by Roman legionnaires. Having learnt how to knit from the Saracens, they made the headgear to protect them from the cold and rain. Three sculptures in the portal of the church of Bellocq, in the Béarn region, show that berets were in existence as early as the 13th century!
Vue des gaves à Oloron-Sainte-MarieFondation du patrimoine
Factories were created in Oloron-Sainte-Marie, at the foot of the Pyrenees. This city, located at the crossroads of the main transhumance routes, is where shepherds and livestock farmers from Gascony, Chalosse, Béarn, Labourd, or Vic-Bilh used to meet. This was how the use of the famous beret spread.
Des bérets basquesFondation du patrimoine
The beret being classified as Basque is down to an error by Napoleon III. The emperor, when on vacation in the Basque Country, noticed that the local fishermen and farmers were all wearing this red wool hat. He then started talking of the Basque beret (beret Basque). As nobody dared to correct him, historians of the time took to using the term as well. But that does not mean that the beret is not actually Bearnaise in origin!
Laulhère: from wool to beret
In Oloron-Sainte-Marie, Laulhère, founded in 1840, is the last French manufacturer of Basque berets. The berets manufactured by the brand are used by the French Army, as well as on the Haute Couture catwalks! The name Laulhère comes from the Bearnais word Laulhèr, meaning shepherd. There are sixteen stages in making a beret and during the process it will pass through the hands of 20 different people.
Bobines de laines pour la création de béretsFondation du patrimoine
The principal component of a beret is of course wool. It takes almost 2,297 feet (700 m) of wool to make a beret!
At Laulhère, the wool comes from merino sheep raised exclusively on French farms. To be felted, the wool must simply be carded and not combed.
Vérification de la taille des béretsFondation du patrimoine
This raw wool, undyed, is firstly knitted, which is a complex operation due to the galette-type shape.
Laulhère has created its own knitting machines that replicate the old techniques.
The remaillage, or closing off of the knitting to give the circular shape, is still done by hand.
Feutrage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
Next comes the fulling process, which allows the wool to be felted.
This crucial step gives the wool its waterproof quality and its softness. Originally, the shepherds used to accelerate this natural process by beating their berets in the water of the Gave. Today, this is done in warm, soapy water.
Différentes étapes de création des béretsFondation du patrimoine
During this process, the wool stitches tighten and the beret loses up to 30% of its volume.
Then comes the stage of dyeing the wool.
Création des pigments pour les béretsFondation du patrimoine
The colors of berets were representative: black for the Bearnais and Landais people, red for the Basques and blue for the first army regiments.
Today they can be adapted according to fashion and to the seasons!
Modelage de béretsFondation du patrimoine
After the wool has been dyed, there is the shaping stage, to give the beret its desired shape and size.
To do this, the wool is stretched across wedges of wood, the diameter of which is gradually increased.
Modelage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
The cutting allows for the head size to be specified.
Grattage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
The beret then moves on to the scraping stage, during which the wool fibers are raised to give them volume, taking care not to damage them.
Tonte des béretsFondation du patrimoine
After this, it is the shearing stage, to give the wool homogeneity, softness and silkiness.
Décatissage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
Wrinkles are eliminated during the decatizing process, which also allows the wool to swell.
Garnissage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
Done by hand or by machine, the lining decorates the interior of the beret. Linings can be in silk or cloth or wool and the outside of the beret can also be embellished, for example with sequins or embroidery or a leather trim...
Garnissage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
Great attention is paid to every single detail.
Once all the final touches are complete, the berets are honed to perfection. With the brush that you can see here in the background, all the tiny wool particles are removed, giving the beret an absolutely perfect finish before it gets packaged up.
Emballage des béretsFondation du patrimoine
Finally, the berets are packaged with the greatest of care, ready to delight both French and international customers.
Having become a symbol of freedom, the beret is now worn by the rich and famous, but it is still also the favorite headgear of the Bearnais livestock farmers!
Le savoir-faire LaulhèreFondation du patrimoine
Take a look at this video of the old production techniques, presented by those in the know at Laulhère.
All our thanks to the team at Maison Laulhère for letting us put together this content.
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