Summer and Winter Delights of Lake Shikaribetsu

The landscape of Lake Shikaribetsu completely changes its colour between the seasons, shifting from blue and green in summer to white and silver in winter. This alpine lake in Hokkaido is best known for its fairy-tale scenery. Ringed by jagged mountains known as the Shikaribetsu Volcanic Group, the surface of the lake is at 804m, making it both the highest lake in Hokkaido as well as the only natural lake in the Daisetsuzan National Park.

Natsuki Saito, a Hokkaido certified nature and canoe guide, offers guiding services around Lake Shikaribetsu. Saito, originally from Tokyo, said she was stunned by the rich bioculture when she first visited the lake. "I was struck by the feeling that trees are also living things. That’s just common sense, of course, but it's easy to forget when you're in the big city. This is a forest where development is prohibited and no human intervention is allowed. I would like for people to see how, just like us, the trees are struggling to raise their children and survive in the environment here."

In summer, canoeing or sea kayaking is an excellent way to appreciate the incredible transparency of water in the lake – in shallower parts the bottom is clearly visible. On a still day the lake reflects the surrounding mountains like a giant mirror.

River watching is another popular summer activity. You can enter the river, and investigate plants and animals living there. “The river around the lake is also highly transparent, but it is so nutritious that it became home to plenty of fish. They sometimes just bump straight into your legs. Miyabeiwana fish is an example of a creature that has evolved for this specific environment, and this is the only place in the world where it is found.”

Thanks to these wind holes, alpine plants can be seen flourishing at this low altitude. Small but bright flowers such as Aquilegia flabella and Dicentra peregrina peek out from the ground in the coniferous forests peculiar to Hokkaido, which consist of a range of indigenous pines. Lake Shirakabetsu provides a great opportunity to feel the vitality of the plants that bloom despite the sometimes harsh environment.

On the ground grows not only flowers but also moss, a symbolic plant of Japan which is mentioned in the Japanese national anthem. At first glance, the moss might give you an impression of quietness and passivity, but it seems to be full of energy here. The so-called ‘Wind hole area around Lake Shikaribetsu and Lake Shinonome’ was selected as one of ‘Japan's precious moss forest’ by the Japanese Bryophyte Society. Saito says one of her favourite features of the landscape is the way that the moss becomes "swollen and shining, after the rain."

Saito also conducts environmental education lectures - called ‘Earth Science’ - in collaboration with local elementary, junior high, and high schools. She believes it is important for children to have direct experience of the forest. "Some happen to reach out to pick flowers, or try to feed wild animals, but without any malicious intent. We encourage them to think about what true kindness to nature means. Many people are afraid of bears, but humans are outsiders for bears. Nature is not only gentle, but also a place where a strict food chain is unfolding. It would be nice if we could think about the whole cycle of life and death from the standpoint of the plants and animals, rather than indulging in acts of ‘kindness’ that actually do more harm than good".

Come Winter, Lake Shikaribetsu shows a completely different face from the verdant greens of summer. It is repainted into a white world of severe beauty. Diamond dust is a phenomenon in which tiny ice crystals are formed by the sublimation of water vapor in the atmosphere. It occurs when the temperature drops below -17 ° C, especially on sunny mornings. The very air shimmers in the sun, creating a landscape of surreal beauty.

Lake Shikaribetsu, which can reach temperatures below -30 ° C, is covered with thick ice in winter and so offers a flat, snowy landscape. No doubt that cross-country skiing on the lake is a popular activity. “The surface of the lake will be flat, so it's recommended for people who aren't confident in their physical strength, too,” says our guide Saito. "Compared to pushing through the undulating forest and hills, it can be taken a lot more casually".

If you’ve over-exerted yourself in the cross-country skiing, help is at hand, as visitors can slip into a tub of hot water overlooking the vast, snowy landscape. The open-air hot spring was originally for use only by locals, but was made public to be enjoyed by the increasing number of tourists. At night, you can see thousands of stars blinking overhead.

In amongst the silent landscape, lights shine out from within skilfully constructed ice structures. This spectacular sight can be seen at a winter event called Lake Shikaribetsu Kotan (Kotan is an Ainu word for a village). It’s an annual tradition that will celebrate its 40th anniversary in 2021. The village purely made of ice and snow appears for only 60 days from the end of January, and seems to express the wishes of the local people to bring joy and beauty out of the otherwise harsh winter.

The centre of Kotan is an ice and snow house called an Igloo. This space, only possible in the depths of winter and gently illuminated by candlelight, creates a relaxed mood where you can quickly feel friends with people you have only just met. “Clean water is essential to make a completely white Igloo,” says Saito. "Nature has its own overwhelming beauty, so I think that decoration should be as minimal as possible. I feel that this event, which was first started by young people as an attempt to cheer up the community, is now becoming our tradition."