Why indigenous wool?
Since the existence of mankind, humans and sheep have co-evolved to support each other in harsh climatic conditions. Eventually, pastoralism naturally fostered in India because one-third of the Indian terrain is semi-arid. These pastoralists nurtured special animal breeds that are resilient and have very light footprints on the earth. They are invaluable in arid regions as they conserve and sustain local ecosystems.
Importance of local wool economy
Native artisans and indigenous pastoral communities from Kutch, Gujarat became an integral part of this ecosystem. Artisans worked with hair and wool to create objects of great elegance. Till date, these generations-old craft practices are codependent and co-exist with the local ecology, environment and pastoral communities. These interlinked production systems have come under threat due to extensive industrialization.
The story of Desi Wool
Currently, It is a cycle of neglect by markets, herders, and policymakers alike that threatens the loss of a treasure trove of genetic resources. Such production systems, if revived, can employ millions in rural India. They can also be at the forefront of shifts towards green-production.
Let’s delve into the process of Desi Wool
Process of natural vegetable dyeing:
Natural dyeing: an integral part of the textile value chain
Vegetable dyeing is a test of ability as much as of endurance. Dyers have had to face many more failures than Edison to un-riddle dyeing recipes. Today Kutchi dyers refer to the storehouse of knowledge established by their ancestors and keep experimenting for new developments.
Natural dyes are produced out of organic and mineral sources from the plant matter and the Earth.
Natural dyeing process: Dyeing a wool hank by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Using vegetable natural dye for wool
These dyes are applied onto raw wool/ yarn/ fabric in diverse methods, as per the requirement of the textile.
A dyeing unit at a weaver's workshop by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Natural dyeing is many centuries old
There are manifold methods of dyeing invented by different dyers. Methods to extract colours from natural sources have been practised for thousands of centuries now and, traditional craftspersons to date carry out very similar practices of developing dyes for dyeing materials.
Close-up of Bandhani aka Tie & dye by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
The Khatri community in Kutch has been practising natural vegetable-dyeing for centuries.
Natural dyeing process: Dyeing a wool hank by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Wool has a special affinity for vegetable dyes
This is because the myriad reactive groups of woollen fibres are trained to capture dyes at first sight! Generally, woollen yarns are dyed with dexterity by the dyers and then handed over to the weaver.
Wool hanks immersed in a water mixture as a part of the dyeing process by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
Subtle and elegant, vegetable dyes capture sparkles of the earth like no other material. Dyes of every region present a sketch of the local vegetation, climate, and ecology.
Traditional Ludi Bandhani of Rabaris by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Once the weavers wove traditional attire (Ludi and Gedua) for Rabari women, the Khatris used to dye the Ludi (traditional long shawl) in lac and indigo, to give it a rustic brownish-black hue.
Traditional Ludi Bandhani of Rabaris by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Khatris have become proficient at tie & dye and till today, perform the technique to beautify the clothing of Rabari women.
Process of Weaving:
Artisan on a loom by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Weaving is the mystic amongst crafts
Indian saints, as well as folk culture, have often explained the non-dualities of life through the metaphor of weaving craft. Every weave establishes itself on warp-threads, the taana, stretched on a loom.
Traditional carpet weaving at Veerjibhai's house in Bhujodi by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
A textile is born...
...when the baana, the weft, crisscrosses the taana (warp), always so, at right angles. The interplay of the taana and the baana presents a sea of possibilities to a weaver and a philosopher alike.
Kutchi artisan weaving traditional Dhabla by Living LightlyKhamir
Weaving is a tradition, a culture
Weavers rely on tradition and their intuitive sense of balance, proportion, and harmony to navigate through this maze of possibilities. They pursue and produce without ego.
Tools of Panja weaving by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
Kutchi weaving has journeyed geographies for many years
It has seen many tools, techniques, and technologies.
Raw indigenous sheep wool by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
Hand-spun wool is textured and fragile
Characteristics of hand-spun wool have shaped tools and techniques devised by the weavers.
Weaving tools used in handloom weaving by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
The reed is made of Mojari grass
The reed is supple - it pulsates with the flow of the yarn; it wavers and wobbles; balances the twin needs of keeping the yarn unbroken and forming a stable surface of threads.
Coat of Varath
The ingenious use of a coat of Varath, a wild tuber of the onion family, extracted on warp threads – it lends strength to the yarn as well as powers to fight moths that tend to feed on wool.
Weaving tools by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Bobbin & Shuttle
A plate with ash
A brush called Kalori made of date palm leaves
Veerjibhai, a Panja weaving artisan weaves carpets by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
Weavers of Kutch
Weavers of Kutch weave on various kinds of traditional looms.
Kharad weaving process by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Weavers of Kutch have woven portable Kharad looms
The Kharad Weaving Process by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Kharad loom: an easy to set-up loom
Kharad loom also known as the nomadic loom; used to weave thick woollen rugs known as Kharads.
Kharad weaving process by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Panja: a wooden or metallic claw-like tool used to beat the weft threads into a dense piece of textile
Dhabla weaving loom by Living LightlyKhamir
Dhabla Loom
Artisan on a loom by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Fly shuttle loom
Tangaliya weaving process by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Weaving Tangaliya on the loom
Laljibhai Dikha Vankar from Dhanedhar Village in east part of Kachchh weaves a traditional tangaliya on the loom. The tangaliya is a traditional skirt worn by women of the local community during their wedding. These local communities are from 32 different villages in East Kutch. The weavers still weave these traditional attires for the local communties.
Handloom weaving: Murjibhai, a master weaver and entrepreneur by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
The weavers have absorbed all these changes without banishing the past. The weavers' community continues to use all these different looms and hence can produce a wide diversity of products.
Kharad woven carpet by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Storytelling through a woven Kharad rug
The weavers' community continues to use all these different looms and hence can produce a wide diversity of products.
traditional tangaliya hand-woven skirt by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Traditional woven products
These weavers are also amongst the most enterprising. Their products and processes are a testament to their adaptability and pragmatism. The motifs on these traditional attires are an inspiration from nature. They weave these motifs through the extra weft weaving technique.
The Desi Wool Initiative
The Desi Oon (Indigenous Wool) Initiative has emerged out of the need to conserve and promote this sustainable wool textile value chain. This indigenous production system can help preserve the ancient heritage breeds and pastoral & artisan livelihoods in India.
About Khamir
KHAMIR is a non-profit organisation based in Kutch, Gujarat that works to preserve and promote crafts practices. Khamir's philosophy is on nurturing indigenous ecosystems, skills, raw materials and artisan capacities to promote resilient, self-sustaining economies in arid and semi-arid regions.
Indigenous wool of Kutch
Kutch with its large sheep and camel population had always had a ready supply of wool. Men and the women of herding families spun wool into yarn and handed it to artisans to make versatile wool-crafts.
Preservation of local ecosystems
Khamir hopes that the story of indigenous wool and well-designed hand-crafted woollen products will help sway consumer preferences and open them to accepting indigenous wool in their households and closets to promote ethical consumerism and preserve these local ecosystems.
Online curation mentor: Meera Goradia
Text: Khamir Team
Photography and video: Ishaan Raghunandan, Pratishtha Chhetri and Aishwarya Maheshwari
Artisans: Rabari Jaggabhai, Rabari Harkuben, Veerjibhai Vankar, Ranabhai, Laljibhai Dikha Vankar, Murjibhai Vankar, Prakashbhai Vankar
Khamir Team: Sushma Iyengar, Durgalakshmi Venkataswamy, Meera Goradia, Ghatit Laheru, Paresh Mangaliya, Tanveen Ratti, Ranabhai Vankar, Pratap Chavda, Saumya Singh, Khyati Vinod, Shinjini Kotia, Shouryamoy Das, Shabri Wable, Aishwarya Maheshwari
Online exhibit curation: Aishwarya Maheshwari
