Master of Imperial Cuisine: Zhao Xinlin

御用佛跳墙 (2020) by Zhang JiangshanWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Imperial cuisine used to be prepared exclusively for the royal family. It features carefully chosen ingredients, elaborate cooking methods, exquisite presentation, and fresh, tender flavors. Though it served a limited number of people, imperial cuisine marked the pinnacle of the era's culinary culture.

China was ruled by a series of dynasties over the course of its history. Since its conception, imperial cuisine has constantly blended with and absorbed all kinds of flavors across China. 

Babao gourd duckWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

It inherited a diversified range of culinary techniques from the previous dynasties, and reached its zenith in the Qing dynasty. Nowadays, when people talk about imperial cuisine, they are usually referring to that of the Qing dynasty.This era centered primarily around Manchu cuisine, and also incorporated flavors from Jiangnan, Shandong, and Sichuan.

Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Zhao Xinlin is a renowned chef in China, and a master of imperial cuisine. In his 40 years as a chef, he has cultivated a substantial repertoire of culinary skills. The practical experience he has accrued in this time has enabled him to develop a distinctive type of imperial cuisine that has earned the acclaim of industry professionals and gastronomes alike.

Chef Zhao Xinlin and the other mastersWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

In 1997, Zhao came back home from abroad and became the executive chef of Jinghua Restaurant. By regularly attending Society of Eminent Chefs gatherings held by various famed restaurants, Zhao became acquainted with masters of different cuisines and from them learned a plethora of cooking skills.

It was during this process that he was able to taste the dishes made by these master chefs, and receive invaluable guidance from many of them as well. A few of these chefs included: Jin Yongquan (Master of Shanxi Cuisine), Kang Hui (Master of Cantonese Cuisine), Dong Shiguo (Master of Imperial Cuisine), Chen Yuliang (Master of Chinese Aristocrat Cuisine), Guo Xitong (Master of Hunan Cuisine) and Zhao Demin (Master of Palace Dim Sum). 

Zhao Xinlin and his master Wang YijunWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Thus Zhao Xinlin grew ever more familiar with imperial cuisine. Zhao Xinlin entered a catering service school in Beijing in 1980, where he graduated with honors. Later, he landed a job in Fengzeyuan Restaurant. Impressed by Zhao's diligence, Wang Yijun, a master of Shandong cuisine, accepted him as an apprentice. Afterwards, Zhao's remarkable performance and well-rounded skillset earned him an opportunity to take charge of Chinese cuisine production in Singapore and Germany.

Bai Jia Da YuanWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Zhao began to work as the executive chef of Baijia Restaurant in 2001 and has specialized in imperial cuisine ever since. He assiduously delved into literature on cooking and accumulated vast stores of knowledge over the decades, instilling in him a much deeper understanding of imperial cuisine.

慈禧樱桃肉 (2020) by Jiao SongtaoWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Innovation upon inheritance

Innovation in Chinese cuisine is an inevitable trend that comes with social development, and imperial cuisine is no exception.

Mandarin fish (a famous dish served in Qing imperial cuisine)World Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

In order to increase its popularity, imperial cuisine, which used to serve the few, must now undergo a drastic facelift.

The Palace of Fish (2020) by Yan YuhangWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

While centering everything around the use of traditional skills, Zhao also incorporated new techniques and ingredients into his cooking. This allowed imperial cuisine to overcome the antiquated limitations of the past and adapt to the ever-changing tastes and needs of the modern market.

抓炒大虾 (2020) by Jiao SongtaoWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Stir-fried Shrimp is an imperial dish. Seasoned with soy sauce, vinegar, salt, and sugar, it takes on a salty flavor profile which is intermingled with sweet and sour undertones. With the emergence of new condiments, Zhao made some refinements to the dish. He gave it more sharpness by adding tomato sauce, all while retaining the original flavor.

莲蓬豆腐 (2020) by Zhang XinxinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

The traditional way of making Lotus Bean Curd is to grind chicken or fish into paste by hand. The resulting taste is impeccably smooth. With the development of food processors and other machinery, however, such manual work has largely gone by the wayside. The paste produced by food processors tastes even smoother, and results in a brilliant snow-white color.

Stir-fried Shrimp with Wolfberry and Gorgon Fruit (2020) by Jiao SongtaoWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Keeping abreast with the times

Master Zhao integrates the 24 solar terms and palace culture into his dishes, etiquette, service, and environment. With the changing of the seasons, there are corresponding imperial cuisines. This kind of brilliant innovation has allowed Zhao to make Chinese cuisine known around the world.

As society has progressed, people tend to attach more importance to healthy and nutritious foods. Any innovation pertaining to contemporary imperial cuisine must also focus on health while changing in tandem with the seasons. Chosen ingredients should correspond with the given season, as humans are designed to only eat food that is in season.

Spring seedling by Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Spring Sprouts

In the warmth of spring, everything is rejuvenated. Eating sprouts in spring is a long-standing tradition. This dish is made of spring seasonal vegetables, colored peppers, and pea seedlings. It makes for a perfect spring-time treat.

The Palace sixteen collection by Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Floral Sixteen Plates

This dish is a combination of eight meat dishes and eight vegetable dishes, with ingredients swapped out according to the season and solar term. While the presentation will vary according to the scale of the feast, the dish is always meant to resemble a blooming flower—providing diners with a visual feast that additionally symbolizes good luck.

feastWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Internationalization

Chef Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Zhao believes that taking various aspects of foreign dietary cultures and traditions into account will help Chinese imperial cuisine be recognized and embraced in communities far and wide.

Chef Zhao Xinlin visited Spain to learn how to make Spanish hamWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

To this end, he introduced high-quality foreign ingredients, tools, techniques, and aesthetic concepts into the making of imperial dishes, garnering unanimous praise from foreign gastronomes.

Cod fish meatball by Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Sablefish Ball Soup

This dish is a twist on Braised Pork Ball in Brown Sauce, a common sight in state banquets. To add a bit of western flavor, Zhao swapped out the pork for sablefish and used diced water chestnuts as a garnish. The result is a cream-colored fish ball in a light, delectable broth. This innovation is a symbol of Chinese culinary culture's continuous internationalization, with new generations of chefs continuing to break the mold.

The chicken hatched by Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Chicks Hatched

This is a sweet and crispy pastry that is a unique combination of Chinese pastry with Western-style chocolate.

La Liste International Food Ranking in FranceWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

In 2019, the team from Baijia Restaurant presented Chinese imperial cuisine in La Liste, garnering praise from all the international judges and teams.

Stir fried fish fillet by Zhao XinlinWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

It remains to be seen whether imperial cuisine should completely adhere to tradition or change with the times. From the viewpoint of Zhao Xinlin, imperial cuisine can, and should, be both traditional and up-to-date. Only when every era's best ingredients and culinary skills are integrated into imperial cuisine can it go far and continue to thrive.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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