Sobrado Abbey

Travel back in time to monastic life on the Camino del Norte.

Sobrado Lagoon, aerial view (16th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

Those who go on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela along the Camino del Norte come across a beautiful lake brimming with life, 40 miles (64 kilometers) from the goal. 

Pilgrim in the Sobrado lagoon (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Although it might not seem like it, this mass of water is artificial. It was created by monks of the Cistercian Order in the 16th century to use as a coenobium (a monks' retreat), which, at that time, enjoyed a time of great splendor. 

Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes, aerial view (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

This coenobium is the breathtaking Sobrado Abbey, one of the biggest and most incredible highlights of the Camino de Santiago, and the most spectacular architectural enclave of the Camino del Norte.

Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

As we approach the colossal building that emerges like a mirage in the middle of the natural landscape, we get a sense of the power the monastic community must have had to be able to develop this complex architecture on the same scale as early Galician cities.

Alfonso IX, King of León, confirms the donation to the monastery of Sobrado del Casal de Fente, made by Alfonso VII on December 24, 1155 (1226)Original Source: Galiciana. Archivo Digital de Galicia

Originally built before the 10th century, it was reclaimed in 1142 by a community of Cistercian monks who turned it into the first center of the Cistercian Order in Spain.

Chapel of San Juan Bautista, monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

A period of bustling activity then began, which continued until the 13th century. The oldest residences date back to this era, which are still preserved in their entirety, such as the small chapel of San Juan Bautista, an early medieval church rarity where there remains …

Kitchen, monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

… a stunning domed kitchen, one of the few medieval aspects preserved in Spanish monasteries, with its single chimney in the center …

Chapter House, monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

… and the elegant chapterhouse, a place for the monastery government to meet, a paradigm of Cistercian architecture with its pure lines.

Cloister of the Medallions, monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

In 1498, Sobrado was incorporated into the Congregation of Castile. Thus began an era of splendor in which the majority of the monastic spaces were renovated on a more monumental scale in more modern styles.

Interior of the church of the monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

This is the case of the Renaissance vestry, one of the most spectacular examples in Spain. Although its original luxurious liturgic furniture has been lost, its huge size, more appropriate for a cathedral, is still testimony to the wealth of the Sobrado monks. 

Cloister of the Medallions, monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

Another sign of the wealth of the monastery is its three grand cloisters: the rich cloister of the Medallóns that contains one of the greatest collections of architectural sculptures in Galicia, the spacious large cloister, and the cloister of the Hospedería, whose name refers to the function of the city of Sobrado of welcoming Jacobeans.

Fresco in one of the crypts of the sacristy, monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

For centuries, rooms at this monastery were so spacious and luxurious that the new archbishops of Santiago, before assuming responsibility, used to stay in this building with their full entourage. They had to await authorization from the Compostelan council, who exercised authority in the city of Santiago de Compostela when the seat was empty, to enter the city.

Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

Pilgrims receive a reminder of this past greatness when arriving in Sobrado and gazing upon the elaborate facade of its church.  In Galicia, this Baroque front can only be compared with the facades of Lourenzá and the facade of the cathedral itself in Santiago de Compostela, and gives us a taste of what awaits us inside.

Interior of the church of the monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

In terms of scale and architectural wealth, there is no other Baroque church like it in Galicia. Its size, more like a cathedral, reminds us of the importance of its contents. Its elegance and charisma, the creativity of a master architect whose identity has been lost.

Hikers in the ruins of one of the cloisters of the monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Original Source: Galiciana. Archivo Digital de Galicia

All the wealth stored over centuries reached a dramatic end. The ecclesiastical confiscations of Mendizábal in 1834 caused the building to be abandoned. Disused, one of the richest monasteries of the kingdom fell into ruin, and practically all its artistic treasures, which are now missing, were pillaged.

Father Lorenzo, parish priest of the Church of the Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

Restoration measures began in the mid 20th century. These were accelerated in 1966, when a Cistercian community returned to settle in the monastery. Thus began the most recent renovations of the grand complex.

Pilgrim on a bicycle arriving at the monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

In addition to prayer, cultivating the vegetable garden, and maintaining a herd of cows to produce dulce de leche, the current monks keep up a thousand-year-old tradition in the monastery: traditional hospitality toward the pilgrims.

Sobrado pilgrims hostel (2021)Regional Government of Galicia

Many of the people who go on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela today via the Camino del Norte take advantage of their hospitality. Those walking the Camino Francés or Camino Primitivo also deviate from the route by a mile or so to visit this place—one of the most impressive enclaves across all the Caminos. 

Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

From the origins of the Jacobean pilgrimage to the present day, the hospitality of this coenobium has accompanied pilgrims. They take a break on the Camino at one of the most important Iberian Peninsula monasteries throughout history, with a monumental character that reminds us of its past greatness.

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