The French Way in Galicia

O Cebreiro is a picture-perfect example of the landscape where the apostle Saint James the Greater was laid to rest. At an altitude of 4,252 feet (1,296 m), this landmark of the Way enjoys one of the most extraordinary panoramic views of central Galicia's landscape, which is dominated by mountains and rolling green landscapes.

The main features of this village are its pallozas (oval dwellings covered with thatched roofs) and the Church of Santa María la Real. Inside the church, the relic of the Miracle of O Cebreiro is stored alongside a chalice and paten (a small plate used to hold Eucharistic bread). Tradition links these items to the search for the Holy Grail.

A trail brings pilgrims from the village of O Cebreiro to Alto de San Roque, where there is a monument dedicated to pilgrims by the galician sculptor José María Acuña.

The French Way reaches its highest altitude in Galicia at this point. A short but challenging slope brings travelers up to Alto do Poio, at an altitude of 4,380 feet (1,335 m). From here, travelers can see the various hamlets that form this route of the St. James Way.

Arriving at Triacastela, travelers are met with two lodgings that together make the public hostel (albergue) of the Galician State Government Office. The hostel is in a prime location as it's surrounded by expansive grassland and the Oribio river is a stone's throw away.

On leaving Triacastela, a milepost gives travelers two optional routes to continue the Way towards Sarria: the San Xil route, which is shorter, or the Samos route, which passes by a spectacular Benedictine abbey.

The Samos route guides pilgrims past dwellings that are characteristic of the Way landscape, such as those found in San Cristovo do Real. This hamlet features the best Galician architecture, though nowadays some of the buildings here are in need of better preservation.

The main point of interest in Samos is the majestic monastery of San Xulián, which was built in the 6th century. King Alfonso II was educated there. He was the king who promoted pilgrimages and the tomb of Saint James the Greater was discovered during his reign. The cloister of this abbey is one of the largest in Spain and dates back to the 18th century. It still offers shelter to pilgrims today.

Sarria is the main population center between Ponferrada and Santiago de Compostela. The town was founded by King Alfonso IX, who happened to die in this town in 1230 while on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims who start their journey from here to complete the final 62 miles (100 km) to Santiago de Compostela can get their Pilgrim Credential from the Albergue Monasterio de la Magdalena.

The route starting from Sarria is a highly enjoyable stage of the Way, with gorgeous rural landscapes. This bridge over the Celeiro river still has its three arches that date back to the Middle Ages. The bridge was built with pieces of slate, except for the arches, which are granite masonry.

Ancient roads, farmland, and dry stone walls built without any kind of mortar come together to form a rural landscape that has been shaped by humans over the centuries.

The next stop along this route is Portomarín, which sits on the banks of the Miño river. The town was completely rebuilt in the 1960s: the ancient medieval town lies beneath the Belesar reservoir and can still be seen when the tide is low enough.

The main door of the church features images of the 24 elders of the Apocalypse, which was clearly influenced by the Portico of Glory in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

After traveling through Palas de Rei, the next stop is the hamlet of Santa María de Leboreiro. Here, travelers will find a cabaceiro or cabazo, which is a type of granary used to store grain. It is located next to the Roman Church of Santa María.

The tympanum, the decorative wall above the entrance, is particularly striking, and inside the church there are painted murals dating back to the 16th century. Next to the church and the granary lie the remains of one of the oldest preserved pilgrim hospitals in Galicia, which dates back to at least 1164.

Before reaching Melide, the French Way guides travelers through the beautiful little town of Furelos. Anyone wishing to enter the town must cross its medieval bridge, which is cited in the Codex Calixtinus. It is one of the architectural gems of the French Way.

Just before reaching Arzúa, travelers will go through Ribadiso, an old pilgrim hospital next to the medieval bridge that crosses the Iso river. This was the last historical place of assistance for pilgrims to remain open on the French Way. It was reopened in Holy Year 1993 as a public hostel.

The French Way next goes through the towns of Arzúa and O Pino. In addition to its architecture and monuments, this stage of the route particularly stands out for its forests and green grasslands that have become icons of the Way today.

Before they arrive at Santiago de Compostela, pilgrims will first come to Monte do Gozo, or Hill of Joy, just 3 miles (5 km) away. From this point, travelers can spot the towers of the cathedral in the city of Santiago de Compostela for the first time. A monument dedicated to pilgrims by the sculptor Acuña is currently placed at the site.

The wide street of San Pedro marks the Way's entrance to the old town of Santiago de Compostela. Nearly every property along this street has a gallery. The oldest houses have stone lintels above their doors which are carved with images of scallop shells, crosses, pine trees, and other images that symbolize which institution in the city owned each house.

The Porta do Camiño, or Way door, is at the end of the street and is one of the oldest entrances in the city walls. Pilgrims arriving to the city via the French Way continue their journey to Santiago de Compostela through this entrance, like many pilgrims before them.