The Weaves of Arunachal Pradesh

A look at the traditional textiles of various tribes from Arunachal Pradesh, India

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Textiles of Idu Mishimi Tribe

Musu Umbray is a leader in her Idu Mishimi community. She is an acknowledged leader who organizes social activities and was once a skilled weaver who gave up the practice because of trouble with her eyesight. She has a rich collection of stitched and unstitched textiles to display the best of their weaving traditions.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Musu Umbrey in her traditional home in Aaholi village wearing her traditional garments. The coat or jacket is called Etopolo.

The skirt or the wrap around, is called Thuma. It is worn by women during festivals. The length of the skirt is 1.5 metres.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The traditional skirt or wrap around is locally known as Thuma.

It takes around 2 months to weave one Thuma, as it is a mix of plain and intricate geometric woven patterns.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Thuma, being a mix of intricate traditional weaves, is fairly expensive, but worthwhile as it is worn on festive occasions when everyone in the tribe dresses in their best clothes.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Thuma, being a mix of intricate traditional weaves, is fairly expensive, but worthwhile as it is worn on festive occasions when everyone in the tribe dresses in their best clothes.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

This particular thuma has a zig zag geometric weave pattern.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Traditional Jewelry of Idu Mishimi Tribe

Musu Umbray doesn't weave anymore because of her eyesight, but makes jewelry for herself and others based on old patterns worn by the community. She explains the purpose of and occasion for each piece of jewelry she or another family member has made and speaks of her community traditions with pride.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Traditional jewelry is an important part of tribal life. Women and men both wear accessories to match their traditional outfits during local festivals.


Here, Musu Umbrey sports silver earrings which are only worn by women. They are locally called Andisu.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Accessories worn by Musu Umbrey have been made by her at home.

Everyone is the community wears traditional jewelry during festivals.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Aane is the traditional necklace made up silver coins and beads.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Golpota is a traditional necklace which is only worn by women. It is made of orange beads with coins.

This is mostly worn by the Adi tribe during Etor festival. This festival happens on May 15 every year when everyone in the community prays for good crops in their fields.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dudap is a necklace worn by men in the community.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Sondrong is worn by women from the Adi tribe.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Nok is worn by women of the Adi tribe.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The kamarband or belt, locally known as Sumbi is worn during festive seasons by women.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Festive Wear

Musu Umbray has a rich collection of stitched and unstitched textiles to display the best of their weaving traditions. She explains the purpose of and occasion for each garment she or another family member has made and speaks of her community traditions with pride.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Musu Umbrey shows off her collection of traditional garments used only during festive times.

Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Anatubai is a colourful handwoven jacket worn by both men and women.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Here, Musu Umbray shows a new and old Anatubai together.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Abrihi is a traditional skirt with green, black and red woven stripes.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Accessories like this woven handbag are also a part of Musu Umbray's repertoire of textiles.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Jopitu is another style of woven skirt, worn usually on special occasions.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The traditional hat is made by and for menfolk out of bamboo.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Finely woven baskets are also a part of Musu Umbrey's collection.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Etojo is local jacket for men.

There are few tailors in Pasighat who stitch the fabrics to make jackets.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Etopola Jacket

The traditional Etopola is a jacket worn by women only from the Idu Mishimi tribe. It has a
geometric motif on the back which is done exclusively for women's garments.

The traditional Etopola is a jacket worn by women only from the Idu Mishimi tribe.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Its warp is of cotton and the weft is wool.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Etopola jacket worn by women only from Idu Mishimi tribe has a geometric motif on the back.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The geometric motif is only part of women's garments.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Etopola jacket is carefully folded to be put away with the family collection.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Community identity expressed through textiles

For communities in Arunachal Pradesh, community identity is displayed through clothes, jewelry, artifacts and lifestyles. In a state with many communities, it is important to define themselves distinctly through such handmade objects.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Etondre is a war jacket worn only by men from Mishimi tribe.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

One important feature of Etondre is said to be that no arrow can pass through this jacket because the weave is extremely tight,.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Gape Gale is a red and black Minyong style fabric.

It is believed that during any mishap or unnatural death, women wear these Gale to avoid ghosts and spirits.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Adigalo is jacket for male and female both worn by members of the Adi tribe.

Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The jacket for men have a design at the back, which is a continuous zig zag pattern that allows a person to be distinguished from behind.

Arunachal Weaving: Loom and fabric at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Yak wool is used to weave blankets and rugs at home just as yak meat, butter, milk, cheese and ghee are part of the staple diet of the Tibeto-Burmese community at Thembang.

Arunachal Weaving: Mon Pa man's Jacket (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Mon-Pa men’s jacket is called Al Phudung or Chola Goithung

Arunachal Weaving: Mon Pa lady's footwear (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Mon-Pa shoe called Tangzum is handmade and hand-embroidered.

The cap resembling a crown is called Warong Jamu.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of Mon Pa Clothing (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Petang happily shows off her community clothing consisting of the cap, Warong Jamu, white stole, Alung chola, necklace of turquoise and coral beads, Nangkor, the jacket, Todung, and the sarong, Shingka.

The belt tied around her waist is called Chudang.

Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Arunachal weaving here:
- Environment
- Weaving Process

Mon pa weaves
Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Subinoy Das, Jaya Jaitly
Artisans: Srimati Aajuke, Musu Umbrey, Kuami Panggeng, Opek Ering
Ground Facilitation: Ankit Kumar
Documentary Video: Subinoy Das
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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