Drapery: A History of Illusions

Drapery is a drawn, sculpted, or painted representation of clothing and other textiles. Set off to discover the draperies of the Musée des Beaux-arts de Nîmes.

The Arrest of Saint John the Baptist (1667) by Reynaud LevieuxMusée des Beaux-arts

From subtle drapery to theatrical representation

Drapery is used by artists to accentuate the body's movement. The choice of material and the arrangement of the folds help reinforce the theme: grandeur, passion, suffering... Drapery is also described by its colors, which function by convention or ideology.

Holy Family with the young Saint John the Baptist and Saint Catherine (Around 1550) by Giovanni CapassiniMusée des Beaux-arts

Holy Family with Saint John the Baptist and Saint Catherine

Painters do not choose colors at random. In religious (as here) or mythological paintings, the characters must be recognizable at first glance by a largely illiterate public. Thus, the Virgin Mary almost always wears a blue cloak.

This color refers to the sky and to Mary's purity. To create this color, a stone that cost as much as gold was ground into powder: lapis lazuli.

Arabs surprised in the desert by the Simoom wind (Before 1833) by François-Auguste BiardMusée des Beaux-arts

Arabs surprised in the desert by the Simoom

These men are in the desert, surprised by the arrival of the "simoom," a violent wind. They have thrown themselves to the ground and wrapped themselves in their long, pointed-hooded garments called burnous to protect themselves from the sand and wind.

Time seems to have stopped. Time seems to have stopped, and the painter chooses a dangerous and dramatic moment: that of a sandstorm. The yellow and orange colors convey an almost fantastic atmosphere. The desert represents a distant, but above all, dangerous place in our imagination.

Preparatory drawing for "The Assumption of the Virgin" (Around 1640) by Nicolas MignardMusée des Beaux-arts

Drapery: genesis of a work and technical prowess

Whether on a character or in an interior space, drapery is a central element: costume, tablecloth, curtain unfurl across the canvases. The delicacy of the embroidery, the interplay of shadow and light in the folds, and the shimmering appearance of the fabrics demonstrate the painters' skill.

Bride or First Communicant (18th century) by AnonymeMusée des Beaux-arts

Bride or Communicant

This head is carved from a block of marble, a hard and very expensive stone. It is covered with a fabric so fine that the face can be seen as if the stone were transparent.

The sculptor demonstrates great talent by bringing forth a face of great finesse from this very hard material. He adds many details such as the flowers on the forehead, the hair delicately resting on the left shoulder, and the embroidery on the edges of the veil.

The Visitation (Before 1869) by Melchior DozeMusée des Beaux-arts

The Visitation

The composition of this biblical scene rests entirely on the drapery, which occupies about three-quarters of the canvas. Elizabeth and Mary are cousins and are both pregnant. They congratulate each other, and Elizabeth, who is the older, kisses Mary on the forehead.

Their clothes are wide sheets, orange and blue. Elizabeth wears a belt at the waist that holds her garment in place. Their dresses are visible underneath. Generally, artists first draw nude models, and then drape them in a second step.

Portrait of Paolo Gerolamo Franzone (1687) by Giovanni Enrico VaymerMusée des Beaux-arts

Drapery: A history of fashions and traditions through the arts

Paintings and sculptures allow for the study of fashion, but this history is incomplete and biased. Luxury is more represented; aristocratic clothing is better known than that of lower social classes. Women's clothing is also more frequently illustrated than men's.

Rustic Festival (17th century) by Jan Miense MolenaerMusée des Beaux-arts

Rustic celebration

Clothing is a social indicator. The simpler the clothes and the more modest the fabrics, the more popular the social environment represented. The participants in this celebration are simply dressed: they wear thick, coarse, and sturdy fabrics for work, which are inexpensive.

They sing, laugh, smoke, drink, dance, kiss... The liveliness animates their bodies; a woman removes her shoe in the foreground. The violin in the center of the canvas sets the rhythm, and the man playing it looks at us as if inviting us to join the celebration.

The Lady at the Piano (19th century) by Adélaïde Salles-WagnerMusée des Beaux-arts

The lady at the piano

This young girl proudly poses for the painter to create her portrait. We do not know who she is, but we can guess from her outfit and her piano that she is a young girl from a good family.

She wears a pearl-grey velvet evening gown with small, ruffled lace sleeves. The light color highlights the whiteness of her skin, a criterion of beauty at the time. Both summer and winter, wealthy women wore gloves, symbols of elegance.

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