By Museum of Design Excellence
Adhuna Bhabani
“Probably in no other country has so much imagination, thought and artistic genius been applied to the art of hairdressing.” - Dr D N Dimri, Director of Archeology, ASI
Tracing Roots From History
For centuries, hairstyling and its traditions have been essential to the Indian wardrobe. Art historical records have consciously documented variations in coiffures that were often indicative of one’s wealth, royalty, and marital status.
Emphasised structure, glorified texture, and exaggerated movement of hair through artfully done styles were symbolic of religious, social, and erotic affinities.
Harappa Dancing Girl (3300 - 1300 BCE)Museum of Design Excellence
Low Buns and Braids
One of the world’s oldest bronze-cast sculptures, the Dancing Girl from the Mohenjo Daro period (3300 - 1300 BCE), has been pivotal in establishing the genesis of hairstyling in the Indian subcontinent. Her serpentine braids are coiled at the top of her head and fall delicately over her right shoulder, paralleling her slender contrapposto.
Limestone drum slab depicting the birth of Prince Siddhartha (1/99)British Museum
Ornamentation
The embellishment of hair with jewels is also a recurrent motif in Indian art and architecture. This sculpture of a Yakshi from the Mauryan period (321 - 182 BCE), with her hair tied in a low bun, decorated with tassels and strings of jewels that culminate with a medallion at the forehead, is also representative of contemporary feminine beauty ideals.
A Royal Entertainment (ca. 1600) by Artist: Attributed here to Sur DasSmithsonian's National Museum of Asian Art
Headdresses, Headbands, and Veils
Representative of religious, social, cultural, or aesthetic values, headdresses are represented in diverse materials and styles.
As seen in this Mughal miniature painting (c.1600) by Sur Das, headdresses, headbands, and veils were, and continue to be essential sartorial elements in certain Indian cultures.
A Bejeweled Lady (c. 1690-1720) by IndianThe Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
Natural Crimps and Waves
Natural Indian hair is often texturised and comprises inconsistent crimps and waves. This Mughal miniature of “The Bejewelled Lady” (c.1700) has captured the tactility and movement of the sitter’s hair by meticulously detailing its fall and flow.
Krishna Leela (Circa 1910) by Ravi Varma Press, Karla Lonavala and Raja Ravi VarmaThe Ganesh Shivaswamy Foundation
Haircare Customs and Rituals
Haircare rituals and the tradition of using flowers, oils, unguents, smoke, scent, and aromas have been documented in paintings and text dating as far back as 3000 BC. Raja Ravi Varma has captured the beauty and sanctity of the hair cleansing process in this print (c.1910) of Krishna and the Gopis.
The sight of me combing my long hair
brings you back to your country
where you tell me
girls sit in the open air
combing each other’s hair
- Frances Chung
In a 5-minute long scene in the film Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962), Meena Kumari is seen partaking in an elaborate dress-up ritual that involves the brushing of her long locks, followed by its braiding and coiling into a bun which is then secured by a bejewelled brooch.
Icons and Their Hairstyles
In early Indian cinema, actors were cast for their personalities rather than the characters they portrayed. While they may have played numerous roles over the span of their careers, their fashion, mannerisms, and hairstyles remained unchanged, and eventually, iconic.
THE SADHANA CUT
Sadhana made an indelible mark in the hairstyle department in the 1960s with her iconic fringe, which was soon after named “The Sadhana Cut.” Often emulated by contemporaneous actresses, the fringe was often teamed with sleek up-dos, or beehives.
What was initially an attempt to conceal her broad forehead, Sadhana Shivdasani’s fringe became a fashion statement after her iconic scene in the film Love in Simla (1960).
THE BEEHIVE AND BOUFFANT
The dramatic bouffant and beehive hair-dos were popularised by actresses such as Sharmila Tagore, Waheeda Rehman, Mumtaz, and Simi Garewal. Often paired with bold, winged eyeliner, and traditional wear, the bouffant and beehive were favourites amongst women in the 1960s and 1970s.
THE POMPADOUR
Dev Anand’s pomp became synonymous with the actor. His thick hair was often slicked back, and its volume was accentuated with a puff at the top. Complemented by his smouldering gaze and impeccable style, Dev Anand’s pomp became a fad amongst actors and fans alike, and is making its way back even today.
THE SLICK BACK
The slick back hairstyle made waves in the 1940s and has since made several appearances on movie screens. While this hairdo is versatile, its primary characteristics comprise hair pomaded - maybe with the classic Brylcreem - and combed back. It is a clean and refined look that suits most hair and face types.
BACHCHAN BACKSWEEP
Amitabh Bachchan’s iconic hairstyle is characterised by an off-centre, side-parting, which is swept back, away from his face. Over the decades several actors have adopted the backsweep, adding their own variations to the style, perhaps in texture or length of the hair and sideburns.
SEVENTIES STRAIGHT DOWN
In the 1970s, when short hair was often associated with villainous characters and long hair with the “virtuous”, Zeenat Aman was unafraid of dabbling with different hair lengths, which, consequently, also facilitated a change in social norms. This hairstyle remained popular through the 1980s and 1990s, and is making its way back today.
DIMPLE'S LAYERED LOCKS
In addition to being lauded for her performances in iconic films such as Bobby (1973) and Dil Chahta Hai (2001), Dimple Kapadia’s incredibly rich, thick, long, and lush hair created waves on the silver screen. Her luscious hair even got her the position of poster woman for the shampoo-cum-soap, Crowning Glory.
THE CURL GIRLS
Karishma Kapoor’s bushy curls in the 1980s, Preity Zinta’s classic curls in the 2000s, and Kangana Ranaut’s spiral curls in the 2010s have been kingpins in re-establishing curls as a prominent hairstyle. It has given Indian women the freedom and representation to embrace their naturally curly and wavy hair.
AAMIR'S FRINGE-UP
Aamir Khan’s look in Dil Chahta Hai (2001) was a pivotal moment for hair design in Indian film productions. A designated team was appointed to create Aamir’s iconic goatee and fringe-up. Subsequently, this iconic look was frequently adopted by actors such as Ajay Devgn, Sushant Singh Rajput, and Ranbir Kapoor.
THE UNDERCUTS AND QUIFFS CULT
Slight fades at the sides of the head culminating in a thick, wavy lock at the top are the essence of the undercut and quiff hairstyles. Popularised on screen by actors such as Varun Dhawan, Shahid Kapoor, and Ayushmann Khuranna these styles have become trends around the country.
THE STRAIGHT AND CENTRED CRAZE
Middle-parted hair, straightened hair is making its way into the realm of hairstyles and is embodied on screens by actors such as Sonam Kapoor, Anushka Sharma, and Kareena Kapoor.
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.