The Myths, Legends, and Rituals of the Takachiho Night Kagura

The town of Takachiho in Miyazaki Prefecture is full of tourists year round. The town is known as a place of myths and legends and is home to the Takachiho Gorge, a designated natural monument bursting with nature. Takachiho’s Yokagura, theatrical Shinto dances and music (“kagura”) held at night (“yo”) that have been passed down from generation to generation here, are particularly famous. They are a Shinto ritual that gives thanks for harvested crops and also acts as a prayer for an abundant harvest in the next year. Starting in autumn and lasting through winter, Yokagura take place in 20 towns at night across the prefecture and they are incredibly lively events.

Takachiho GorgeOriginal Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Takachiho Town: Kunimi-gaokaOriginal Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Kagura refers to music or dance offered to the gods in Japanese mythology. The mythology is written in “Kojiki (712)”, the oldest history book of Japan; and “Nihon shoki (720)”, in its first chapter. Kagura dances are divided into two categories: mikagura, performed at the Imperial court, and satokagura, performed at local shrines and private residences. Both of these are said to have been derived from a yearly Shinto ritual known as kamiasobi, songs and dances performed to invoke the gods, pray for an abundant harvest, and enjoy the evening ritual. Satokagura dances, passed down locally all across Japan, deeply display the culture of the area, and these dances are distinctive in that they have been passed down by ordinary people. Takachiho has a history of being the stage for many myths and legends, including the legend of the descent of Amaterasu's (Shinto goddess of the sun and universe) grandson Ninigi-no-Mikoto from heaven, and the town itself is revered as a place still visited by the gods of legend.

Shokemori (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

 Another charming feature of Takachiho are the local foods, including Kagura cuisine. You can experience many delicious foods not found anywhere else, made with a plethora of local ingredients. For example, shoke-mori, kappo-dori, and kappo-sake. Even to the average Japanese person, the names of these dishes are unfamiliar, and it’s unclear what kind of food they are at first. We spoke to Hikaru Sato of Kagura no Yakata Inn, built on a plateau overlooking the town.

Kagura no Yakata's Mr. Hikaru (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Tofu Nishime (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

“Shoke-mori is a type of food eaten here during the Yokagura dances since ancient times. It’s a feast of the bounties of nature harvested here.”  It seems that “shoke” refers to a bamboo basket. So shoke-mori is a generous serving of a variety of foods served in a large bamboo basket. This can include inari sushi (rice wrapped inside fried tofu), sushi with fish, and onishime, a boiled dish of shiitake mushrooms, pieces of deep fried tofu, bamboo shoots, carrots, konjac, and more. Each of these foods gives you a sense of the rich bounty of nature.

Sushi Rolls (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Vegetable Nishime (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Landscape Photos of Takachiho from the Past (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

As Kagura would take place overnight, a night meal would be served in between. It is said that “Kagura nishime (vegetables stewed in soy sauce)” is the most popular dish that is served. “From long ago, meals would be cooked by men during the day of Kagura. We are not sure why. Nowadays, most of it is cooked by women”.

Kappo-Dori (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Next up is kappo-dori (“dori” means chicken). “Kappo” refers to bamboo. Sake can be heated, and chicken can be steamed and cooked by making use of the characteristic hollow core of the bamboo plant. Hikaru tells us that originally, townspeople used bamboo to make meals when they had to work up in the mountains. The ingredients for kappo-dori are local chicken, fresh shiitake mushrooms, garlic chives, and garlic. At Kagura no Yakata, they add salt, pepper, lots of sake, and a secret sauce for flavoring. After the flavoring has been thoroughly rubbed into the ingredients, everything is placed inside the bamboo, the bamboo lid is put in place, and everything gets steamed and cooked over a charcoal fire.

Kappo-dori (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Once the chicken has been cooked through, the bamboo pipe begins to simmer, and a wonderful aroma begins to waft out. The kappo-dori is ready when you begin to see steam escaping. The bamboo adds to the flavor and the taste leaves me speechless. After eating the kappo-dori, the remaining juice is added to cooked rice to create a delicious rice soup. 

Kappo-Zake (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Kappo-Zake (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Kappo sake (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Bamboos are also used for “Kappo-sake”. Inside this, shochu or Japanese sake would either be served. Both are common, but it seems that shochu is more popular around this area. How to make is very simple: serve sake in a bamboo pipe cut for this purpose, and heat it over a hearth or bonfire. The bamboo’s extract would blend with shochu as the bamboo gets heated, enhancing its flavor and fragrance. The drink is ready when it starts steaming. When serving the sake into a sake cup also made of bamboo, you will hear a delicious sound “kapokapokapo”. This tasteful sound is said to be the origin of the name “Kappo-sake”.

Kagura no Yakata's Hikaru Sato & Mizue Sato (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

The tradition of serving a meal during Kagura is passed down from ancient times as Naorai: a feast which takes place once every year to unite the gods with the villagers. You will surely be touched by its taste and the warmth of people, eating in the cold weather.

Takachiho Yokagura Dances: Fire (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

At night in Takachiho-cho, the sky becomes full of stars in the still atmosphere. When it gets dark in the quiet village, the profound sound of drums and flutes echoes through subtly. Hoping to share the culture of night Kagura with as many people as possible, a part of Kagura is performed every day of the year in the Kagura-den Hall of Takachiho Shrine. The road leading to the main shrine is lighted up with torches; the dazzling fire has a very magical look. The shrine is surrounded by old trees, having a solemn atmosphere.

Takachiho Yokagura Dances: Tejikarao no Mai (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Takachiho Yokagura Dances: Tejikarao no Mai (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Dance of Tajikarao

A total of 33 Kagura numbers are dedicated overnight in “Takachiho Night Kagura”. Let us introduce some of them here. In this dance, Tajikarao (a god from Japanese mythology) tries to find Amanoiwato, the place where the Sun Goddess Amaterasuomikami hid, plunging the world into darkness. He is holding a bell with one hand, and with the other an Iwato-nusa (a staff with plaited red and white paper streamers and crown on top). The crown is said to resemble heaven and water, and earth and soil.

Takachiho Yokagura Dances: Uzume no Mai (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Dance of Uzume

This dance is said to be the origin of Kagura. After locating Amanoiwato, Amenouzume attempts to lure Amaterasuomikami out of the cave with an elegant dance. The “mask” which shows various expressions depending on its angle is mysteriously appealing. These “masks” which are used in Kagura are also precious assets which passes down our ancestor’s thoughts and techniques to our day.

Takachiho Yokagura Dances: Totori no Mai (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Takachiho Yokagura Dances: Totori no Mai (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Dance of Totori

This heroic and powerful dance illustrates when Tajikarao opens the stone doors of the cave and invites Amaterasuomikami out. Although this is another dance by Tajikarao, the mask he is wearing is red; it resembles his blushing face, as he opens the stone doors with all his might. The one dancing energetically this day was a 15-year-old boy, who is from the Futagami Shrine area. While successors of the dance are decreasing, the tradition is also being passed down to a new generation.

Takachiho Yokagura Dances (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Dance of Goshitai

Known as the “creation of the country” dance, this Kagura is a dance of a couple (Izanagi and Izanami), dedicating the sake which they made out of newly-harvested grains. It is thus called the “Sake brewing” dance as well. The dance represents a loving and lasting marriage, with the couple cuddling and drinking peacefully.

Takachiho Yokagura Dances (2019/2019)Original Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Takachiho Town: Kunimi-gaokaOriginal Source: GIAHS Takachihogo-Shiibayama Site

Takachiho Night Kagura conveys the “fun of playing around with gods” to people today, and despite it being simple and primitive, it is very dramatic. The annual night Kagura held in each village, never fails to impress even the locals.

Credits: Story

Cooperation with
Takachiho Tourist Association
Kagura Hall
Takachiho Shrine
Hutagami Shrine
SAVOR JAPAN


Photos: Misa Nakagaki
Text & Edit: Saori Hayashida
Production: Skyrocket Corporation

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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