Vineyards on the banks of the river MiñoRegional Government of Galicia
Álvaro Cunqueiro, one of the greatest Galician writers of the 20th century, called Galicia "the land of a thousand rivers." Of the many waterways that crisscross this pilgrim-filled land, one stands out by a long shot: the Miño river.
Miño River as it passes through Tui (2020)Regional Government of Galicia
Measuring 193 miles (310 km), the Miño crosses Galicia from the north, south, east, and west before flowing into the Atlantic Ocean. Many parts of the river crop up along the routes that guide pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela, including the Original Way, the French Way, the Winter Way, the Silver Way, the Portuguese Way, and the Coastal Portuguese Way.
Os Peares reservoir on the Miño river (2018)Original Source: Axencia Turismo de Galicia
The Miño and its tributaries carve the various forms of Galicia's inland landscape. Nature, legends, history, and the present flow through its waters. Let's follow this coursing river and find out more about it.
The origin and upper course
The Miño river originates in O Pedregal de Irimia, where there is an accumulation of large rocks. Legends say that the rocks were thrown by the witch Irimia, or even the Devil himself. What is certain is that the river's origin is in the moraine, or scree, carried downstream by an ancient glacier.
Santo Alberte de Parga bridge, aerial view (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia
At its upper course, the river receives water from the Parga, Ladra, and Támoga rivers, which, together with some other waterways, form the wetland of A Terra Chá. The Northern Way crosses this natural site, which is known for its network of slow and winding rivers. Together with the impermeable soil, these rivers have created a land full of flood plains, ponds, and lagoons.
Cospeito lagoon in winter (2009)Original Source: Axencia Turismo de Galicia
Though many lagoons have disappeared with Spain's modernization, the Cospeito and Caque lagoons still exist today. They are exceptional sites for bird watching. Most of the landscape is dominated by agricultural and livestock activities, along with patches of native forests of oak and water-loving trees, including alder, ash, and willow.
Roman bridge of Lugo (260-310)Regional Government of Galicia
In the 1st century BCE, the Romans founded Lucus Augusti, one of the three main cities in Gallaecia, which at the time was a Roman province in the northwest region of the Iberian Peninsula. Today, this city is called Lugo, and it is 45 miles (73 km) downstream from the origin of the Miño river, where the Winter Way crosses over it.
The middle course
The French Way crosses the river in Portomarín, which is cited as Pons Minea (the bridge of the Miño) in the Codex Calixtinus. The remnants of this ancient town lie below the waters of the Belesar reservoir. When the reservoir is low, the town's ruins can be seen in the river bed.
Vineyards on the banks of the river MiñoRegional Government of Galicia
In its middle course, the Miño valley deepens as the river heads south. At one point, its waters merge with those of its main tributary—the Sil.
Church of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño (2007)Original Source: Axencia Turismo de Galicia
Here, the land stretching from either side of the Miño and Sil's river banks is known as Ribeira Sacra. In the Middle Ages, many monasteries were founded in this area, and today they stand out against a natural backdrop. The Winter Way crosses the Miño at this point.
O Cabo do Mundo, meander in the river MiñoRegional Government of Galicia
The river squeezes through gorges that have been used to cultivate wine since Roman times. Wines and rivers have made their mark on history and traditions in this region. Mythological creatures that are half human, half fish, known as xacias or xacios, are said to spring from these waters.
Roman bridge of Ourense (1st Century)Regional Government of Galicia
In Os Peares, the Miño meets its main tributary, the Sil. A little downriver, the Miño flows through another landmark on its way to the sea—the town of Ourense. Pilgrims following the Silver Way cross over the town's bridge, which is one of the best examples of Roman engineering in Galicia.
The lower course
In its lower course, the Miño turns west and forms a natural border between Spain and Portugal for the last 50 miles (80 km). The valley forged by the river at this point is wide and fertile: grapevines, vegetables, and fruit are cultivated in vast numbers at either side of the riverbank.
Miño River as it passes through Tui (2020)Regional Government of Galicia
There are also border towns on either side of the river, which are often fortified. The Portuguese Way runs from Valença to Tui, the old town of which descends to the Miño river from the Cathedral of Santa María. Meanwhile, the Coastal Portuguese Way covers the estuary of the Miño river between Caminha and A Guarda.
Islands at the mouth of the Miño and Monte Santa Trega (2020)Regional Government of Galicia
This point of the estuary marks the southern border of Europe's distribution of salmon, which is a threatened species. The sea lamprey can also be found in these waters. It is an ancient vertebrate and is an important part of Galician cuisine. Sea lampreys were traditionally fished using dams known as pesqueiras; about 400 of these stone structures can be seen between Salvaterra de Miño and Crecente.
Mouth of the Miño, between Caminha and A Guarda (2011)Original Source: S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo
At its mouth, the Miño river forms an estuary where the combination of marine and river habitats create great biodiversity. As the tides wash in, they create a wide expanse of sea rush and grassy wetlands called morraceiras, as well as islands and sandbanks (ariños). In winter, the estuary is home to flocks of migratory birds.
Mount Santa Trega and the mouth of the Miño from Caminha (2020)Regional Government of Galicia
The Miño ends its journey in the Atlantic Ocean. In its wake lie 193 miles (310 km) of silent, flowing river, crossing time and space. In the words of the poet Manuel María, "One listens, hopeful and intent, and the old Miño river remains silent" (Un escoita, atento e esperanzado, e o vello Miño, sempre vai calado).
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