Triana Street in Gran Canaria (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
On Triana's high street, the main road in the Triana district and one of the most important commercial areas in the city, is the Arencibia pharmacy, dating from the early 20th century.
Old pictures (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
The pharmacy, now owned by Nuria Arencibia, has preserved its interior decor since the early 20th century. The back room furniture, the floor, and the modernist furniture and counter drawers date from the period of Dr. Canivell, the pharmacy's original owner.
The Lleó building, a traditional building on Triana street
At the turn of the century, Vicente Lleó Benlliure, a Valencian who had settled in the city, submitted plans to build an elegant building at No. 65 Triana street. Once finished, the so-called Lleó building became one of the most emblematic buildings on the street.
It wasn't a novelty on this street. In the early 20th century, the modernist architectural style led to very distinctive buildings being constructed in the area.
Droguería Lleó (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
A drugstore was opened in the Lleó building, which later became a pharmacy. In 1911, it was advertised as a "drugstore offering prescriptions of Spanish and English drugs, with a microphotographic laboratory run by Dr. Canivell.”
A pharmacy frozen in time
Nuria explains that the original pharmacy is almost entirely intact, apart from the side walls, which due to the needs of the business had to be modified to make space for other products outside of the pharmaceutical specialties.
Antique furniture (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
“The furniture is all exactly the same; the only thing we've done is adapted it for the products we stock today.”
Arencibia Pharmacy's Counter (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
“There is a highly emblematic counter, with a mirror marked with the symbol of the pharmacy, with a cup and snake.”
Old pharmacy jars (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
There is a collection of pharmacy jars which would have been used to store the medicines. Today, the collection of jars on display at the Arencibia pharmacy is minimal, as they use the space to display other products, but Nuria has the others stored away safely.
The pharmacy in the time of Ginés Arencibia
Ginés Arencibia Robayna, Nuria's father, would have been at the pharmacy all day long. Originally from Lanzarote, Ginés studied in the renowned college of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, where he forged many friendships.
Old-fashioned chest of drawers (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
“In those days everybody would come by the store. My father was one of those pharmacists who would open and close the pharmacy himself. So he was there all hours of the day.”
Ginés and Nuria (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
“The pharmacy was a meeting point for pharmacists, architects, and especially doctors who knew my father. It was a never-ending get-together. There was always somebody passing through who would sit down and mull over the news of the day, and give their opinions on it all.”
Mirror with the pharmacy symbol (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
This pharmacy, located close to two famous theaters of the region, has been frequented by “virtually every Spanish actor and singer, including Plácido Domingo, Montserrat Caballé, and Ainhoa Arteta.” The artist César Manrique, known as Don Ginés, was also a regular.
Nuria remembers an employee from the time when her father ran the business, who everyone called Don Salvador and who impressed upon her because of his appearance. However, he was well loved by all the pharmacy's customers.
Medicine box (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
“There is one anecdote I will never forget. I think I still have the piece of paper somewhere. It said: 'Salvadorito, please send me one of those little boxes full of candles that you put up your a** but they're for your throat.' They were suppositories."
A 21st-century pharmacy
Nuria has been running the pharmacy since 2005. These days the pharmacy dispenses medicine produced by pharmaceutical laboratories, but does not prepare magistral preparations as they would have done in the past.
Behind the counter (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
The needs of their customers have also evolved, and the pharmacy has had to adapt to these changing times.
Clientes en el mostrador de la Farmacia ArencibiaCámaras de Comercio de Canarias
It's what's known as a community pharmacy (as opposed to an ambulatory care pharmacy, situated near an outpatient clinic). This means they get regular customers from the area, who work in the local businesses, as well as other types of customers passing through for different reasons.
Nuria Arencibia's Pharmacy from outside (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
“It was the only pharmacy [on Triana street] until fairly recently, and now, with the boom in cruise ships, of course we get a lot of foreign customers.”
Nuria and Benigno (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
The pharmacy now has six employees; of the four assistants, two began working there under Nuria's father. Benigno, for example, has worked at the pharmacy for more than 40 years, since 1979.
Pharmaceuticals in pandemic times
During the lockdown due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the only two businesses still open to the public on the main commercial street of Triana were the two existing pharmacies.
Edificios en Gran CanariaCámaras de Comercio de Canarias
For Nuria, they were strange times: "We were completely alone." The cash taken at the pharmacy had to be deposited at the bank, and for that she had to be escorted through the deserted streets of the center by the police and land army.
Pharmacy's old bottle (2022-12)Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias
The future of the pharmacy is secure, although the question of who the next owner will be is up in the air, as is whether the timeless aspect of the store will be preserved.
Photographer: Diego Calvi