Time-Honored Ceramics in La Gomera

Meet María del Mar, one of the last traditional ceramicists in El Cercado.

María del Mar, potter from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar's pottery

María del Mar is one of the last remaining potters in El Cercado, the last vestige of a pottery production established by the native islanders of La Gomera hundreds of years ago, which has been preserved in its purest form until the present day.

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

Maria del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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"I like being a potter. I converted a tradition into my profession, my job, and I'm proud of it. I mean, look, not everyone has a gold medal of the Canary Islands, you know?"

Cerámica Tradicional María del Mar - ShopCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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How did you start out in this traditional trade?

“It's a family tradition so it was handed down to me: my aunt, my grandmother, my great grandmother … they were all potters. I did a bit of ceramics at home, as my mother did, and then we would sell the pieces to the studio that was open at the time. After a while my mother and I decided to open our own studio.”

María del Mar, potter from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

A tradition preserved across two studios

The two studios in El Cercado today continue the legacy of their ancestors, preserving the tradition of working with clay, which has died out in other potteries on the islands. “It's something that comes from long, long ago. It's a part of our culture in La Gomera, and there are only two of us left.”

Video Gomera - proceso 2Cámaras de Comercio de Canarias

Guadalupe Niebla, potter from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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From mothers to daughters

Pottery was a profession practiced exclusively by women in La Gomera, and the skill was passed down from mothers to daughters. “Here in La Gomera at least, it is only women who work in pottery. It was frowned upon if men worked in ceramics. The men's job was to go and get the clay, which was a more physically demanding task. And so the women were the ones actually making the ceramics. And it has continued like that.”

Guadalupe Niebla, potter from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

Guadalupe Niebla, champion of ceramics

María del Mar's grandmother, Guadalupe Niebla, was a potter in La Gomera. Born in El Cercado in 1912, she spearheaded the ceramics in the region, and stopped the skill from sinking into oblivion. Her daughters supported her and, later, her granddaughter followed in her footsteps.

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

What make the ceramics of El Cercado so special?

It is a tradition in which unique items are painstakingly created by hand, without the use of molds or wheels, and fired in a stone kiln fueled with local wood. “Although we might make the same item 10 times in a day because it's a handmade process, no piece is ever exactly the same: one might be more rounded, another a little smaller, another a bit taller …”

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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“They make ceramics on all of the islands, as we do, but on La Palma, for example, they are burnished with oil. We don't do that; we use water, which is the traditional way. It means it's not as shiny, it's more rustic looking.”

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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Years ago, the women of El Cercado would use their ceramics to trade for food or other basic items. Once money moved into domestic use, the ceramics were ditched. “[Potters] used to walk barefoot on the streets; they tied fern leaves onto their feet to walk, and they would travel to other towns to barter.”

María del Mar, potter from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

A demanding craft which requires dedication

There are still many women in El Cercado with the skills and knowledge to make ceramics, but they choose not to because it is such demanding, arduous work. As María del Mar says: “What you don't see in the store is the hard work.”

Video Gomera - picando tierraCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

They have to go and fetch the clay from the cliffs, pound it, mix it with sand, gather wood for the firing … Their husbands and sons help them with these tasks; if they didn't “it would be impossible.”

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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“It is tricky to find the clay because it is buried underground; you have to walk to the cliffs to search for it, focusing on the areas where cracks have opened up in the soil. Then, you have to dig a hole around a meter deep to see if there is any clay. And sometimes there is, and sometimes there isn't.”

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María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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The wood to fuel the kilns is gathered from the mountain; it is collected, chopped, and prepared. “We have to obtain licenses in order to gather the wood. There are always people working here on the mountain, in Garajonay, and they are always chopping down pine trees, or other trees that have died.”

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

What pieces do you produce mostly?

The "Gomera dinnerware" comprises 12 traditional pieces. Each item was used for a specific everyday function: to collect milk, to mix roasted cornmeal, to roast chestnuts, to transport water … “These pieces are the fundamentals of the store, but I also make other things.”

Cerámica Tradicional María del Mar - ShopCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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Who are your usual customers in the store?

“All sorts of people. Many of them come from the other islands, especially in the summer. But we also get French, German, and Italian tourists … The foreigners come with their guidebooks to La Gomera, which include our ceramics, and then they come looking for the studio. Some come via the interpretation center in the town, while others seek us out directly.”

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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Do you think people today place a higher value on craftsmanship?

María del Mar believes it depends on the person, but explains that those who buy ceramics do so because they recognize the work that goes into it, and understand its value. “Today, with all our advances and the way our lives have changed, people are drawn to the fact that we're still making ceramics in the traditional way.”

Traditional Ceramics from El CercadoCámaras de Comercio de Canarias

María del Mar, potter from El Cercado
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What do you see for the future of ceramics in El Cercado?

“It's a technique that will be lost when my partner and I close our studios, unless someone from outside comes forward. The local people here will not carry on the craft. My daughter is studying at university and she is happier there. These are different times, everything is changing.”

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