Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Zari zardozi is a style of metallic thread embroidery, said to have been introduced in India by the Sultans of Turko-Afghan origin, who came to rule Delhi in the 12th century. It was originally done with fine gold and silver wires on rich silk and velvet fabrics. It soon became a favourite of the Indian affluent and elite classes. The craft was at its peak in the 17th century Mughal court, where it was widely used on garments, footwear, decorations and equestrian ornaments.
In recent years, this craft of royal patronage has revived once more. It now caters to an ever-growing fashion and wedding industry. Zari work is employed on furnishings and decorations, ranging from Christmas ornaments to accents used at wedding venues. However, its main application is in the fashion industry, especially targeting the wedding market.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Zari zardozi work is especially popular for weddings. Heavily embroidered garments are much sought after.
This densely ornamented bridal lehenga (long skirt) weighs as much as 12 kilograms.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A salesman displays a wedding skirt at an Old Delhi shop by the name of Wedding Saree Wala.
Made on georgette fabric, this skirt with zari zardozi embroidery took a team of 7 artisans 3 weeks to complete.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A wedding skirt with zardozi work on velvet fabric.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A close up of all over zardozi work on a georgette saree.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Zari zardozi work on the border of a wedding skirt in georgette fabric. In addition to the zardozi embroidery, there is use of crystals and flat gold ribbon called gota.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Detail from a bridal skirt with zari zardozi embroidered panel depicting a wedding procession.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A salesman at a wedding garments store in Old Delhi displays a zardozi ensemble in soft pink and green.
With delicate embroidery on a raw silk base, this is part of a new collection inspired by a recent celebrity wedding dress.
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A mannequin at Ekaya, a designer store in New Delhi. In recent times, fashion designers are adapting zari zardozi for use with more contemporary cuts in softer and non-traditional colourways.
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Intricate zari and thread work on a designer blouse.
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Detail: zari zardozi work on the border of a lehenga (long skirt), courtesy Ekaya.
The brand specialises in combining embroidery with hand woven brocade fabrics from Benaras, a traditional weaving centre in India.
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Close up of zari zardozi work on the border of a lehenga (long skirt), where different metallic threads have been used in combination.
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Detail: zari zardozi work on the border of a lehenga (long skirt).
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Detail: zari zardozi work on the border of a lehenga (long skirt).
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Detail: zari zardozi work on the border of a lehenga (long skirt).
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Weddings in India tend to be grand affairs. For those so inclined, a north Indian wedding provides the opportunity to draw on the sumptuous and royal heritage of yore.
Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Zari Zardozi of Old Delhi here:
- In search of Zari Zardozi on the streets of Old Delhi
- Zari Zardozi Embroidery of Old Delhi
Text: Rashmi Sacher, Charu Verma
Photography: Sunil Kumar, Charu Verma
Artisans: Reshma Rehman Ansari, Shaheen, Saira, Chand, Naseen Bano, Gulafsha, Tabasum, Farahnaaz, Mohammed Arif, Mohammed Asif
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma, Rashmi Sacher
Documentary Video: Sunil Kumar, Charu Verma
Curation: Ruchira Verma
