A Tour to Meet Shigeru Mizuki's Youkai

Sakaiminato, in Tottori prefecture, was the hometown of Shigeru Mizuki, one of Japan's most famous manga artists, and is now home to a museum in his honour. Mizuki loved Youkai - spirit creatures from Japanese mythology and folktale, some of them malevolent, some of them kind. Mizuki's own spirit, humorous and carefree, still lingers on in the city with his beloved Youkai.

It takes talent to depict another world

Mizuki(1922-2015) is one of the luminaries of Japanese manga. He was said to be a humorous but quite shy man, who, despite advancing age and increasing fame, made a habit of making a funny face when having his photo taken. He did, however, have a hard life, losing his left arm in a fierce WWII battle, and he did not gain recognition as a manga artist until the relatively late age of 43, with his masterpiece "GeGeGe no Kitaro" (1965) - still so famous that it has been re-made as an anime six times.

Entering the Mizuki Shigeru Museum

Sakaiminato city - which looks across the sea to the pretty Izumo Peninsula - has its own claim to mythological fame, as it is said to have been a dwelling-place for the Gods since ancient times. Mizuki Shigeru Museum, which many make the first thing they visit in the city, was established in 2003 and has about 700 exhibits. It is now a key cultural attraction in Sakaiminato, which is known as the "city of fish and Kitaro", in reference to the main character of "GeGeGe no Kitaro". In addition to its permanent collection, the museum is organized to introduce visitors to Mizuki's unique world, and to put his Youkai on full display.

Mizuki's earlier works

At the beginning of the tour, you will find the "Manga Encyclopedia" corner. Mizuki started his career as a picture-story artist, before moving on to work for magazines. This exhibit introduces the manga "Hakaba Kitaro" (Togetsu Shobo, 1960), which was the prototype for "GeGeGe no Kitaro", and shows a similarly fantastical art style. It is no exaggeration to say that Mizuki went on to create the image of Youkai that every Japanese person brings to mind when they hear the word.

Mizuki drew a variety of manga in his early career, from Samurai-related to manga aimed at girls. Amongst his works were a science fiction manga- "Rocket Man" (Togetsu Shobo, 1958), which posits a warning about the expanding power of science and the dangers of overlooking nature.

As you proceed through the museum, you will be greeted by panels with intriguing titles, such as "The Secret of the Medama-Oyaji [Eyeball Father]" and "The Secret of Kitaro: 10 Supernatural Powers". Youkai, inhabiting a parallel world to our own, though possessing special powers, are fallible, like humans, and their imperfections are brought skillfully to light in Mizuki's works.

Adventure begins at 60

Mizuki was an avid traveller, visiting countries which included, amongst others, Myanmar, Papua New Guinea, Mexico and China. Because of his busy schedule and financial constraints he faced earlier in life, he was unable to indulge this hobby fully until he was in his 60s. The photographs he took at these various destinations are on display, and show his friendly, cheerful personality. As a member of the Japanese Ethnographic Society, he collected masks and other works of indigenous art from all around the world.

Welcome to the Youkai world

After passing through the library and a reproduction of Mizuki's workplace, you will enter a dimly lit space. It introduces eight Youkai, a series of episodes of an anime that features the characters of Mizuki and Nonnon-ba, the woman who taught the infant Mizuki about Youkai. The episodes and the accompanying narration give a real insight into the world of Mizuki's youth.

For the brave ones, the Youkai cave

In the “Youkai cave”, you will find yourself surrounded by no fewer than 43 Youkai. Carefully arranged sound effects and lighting bring this frightening but intriguing place alive.

So realistic do the Youkai seem, that even their shadows seem to creep along the walls - understandably, children are both terrified of and delighted by this place. If you are brave enough to pass through, you will be introduced to another side of Mizuki's personality, that of a Youkai researcher. The "National Youkai Map" shows the origins of the various Youkai on the map of Japan.

Other spots to visit in the museum

Another highlight is the "Mizuki Gallery", which exhibits work that showcase Mizuki's fascinating art style. Alongside this, there is the "Space of the lifetime of the sleepy-head [as Mizuki would refer to himself]", which introduces Mizuki's life in chronological order. The "Vocabulary Gallery" gives some insight into Mizuki's straightforward, laid-back personality. Many visitors may agree with his laconic words, like "heroes don't want money. That's why I hate heroes". In addition, the "Corridor of the Scroll" awaits you, which traces his life back to its start in drawings.

Conveying the human power of Mizuki

Standing in the courtyard of a former Ryoutei (traditional Japanese restaurant), Yukio Shoji - the director of the Mizuki Shigeru museum, and the man who appeared as a character in the anime of "GeGeGe no Kitaro", explains about Mizuki: "I want to convey the human face of Mizuki-sensei. His works are so wide and also so deep - almost anyone would find them interesting, and they reflect both his personality and his profound world-view. This is why his manga has been so enduring, and respected from so many quarters. I hope you get a sense of that charm".

Enjoy encounters with Youkai on the road

As you leave the museum, you will see the "Mizuki Shigeru Road", which runs back to the train station. On stone pedestals of various sizes and shapes are bronze statues of Mizuki's Youkai. The number of statues has steadily increased over the years, from 23 when the road was inaugurated in 1993, to 177 now. There are also fun attractions including "Youkai Stamp Rally", where children can collect stamps and receive a reward for getting them all.

If you get tired of walking, why not stop in for a gourmet Youkai meal? There are many food shops along the way, with intriguing (and appetizing) Mizuki-referencing names, such as "Medama Oyaji's Sweets", and "Kitaro Bread". Of course, you can also fill your stomach with a seafood bowl, the signature dish of Sakaiminato city.

Amabie: now and then

Not all Youkai are villains, and some like to make useful contributions to society. The half-human, half-fish Youkai, Amabie, supposedly appeared during the late Edo period and helped to end a plague occurring at the time. Mizuki's illustration of Amabie is now used as a symbol for the infectious disease control measures, during the current coronavirus. Mizuki may be gone, but his Youkai are still around to lend a hand when times are hard.

Under the cherry blossoms... the man rests

The irresponsible, lazy Nezumi Otoko (Mouse Man), is a unique character in "GeGeGe no Kitaro", since one cannot really hate him, no matter how badly he behaves. He is sometimes described as the most similar character to Mizuki, a free spirit with a somewhat aloof, cynical attitude towards society. If you look carefully, you might find him, resting under a beautiful cherry tree.

The cheerful Youkai are the symbols of the city

Many tourists arrive via the JR Sakai line, which connects Sakaiminato to Yonago city. The Kitaro train - which has no fewer than six different types of car designs - has characters such as Kitaro appearing on both the outside and the inside of the train cars. The local airport is similarly Mizuki-themed, being called the Yonago Kitaro Airport.

A night walk with the Youkai

In 2018, in commemoration of the 25th anniversary of the opening of the museum, a night illumination of the Mizuki Shigeru Road was added. If you're still there at dark, why don't you enjoy a mysterious, sometimes frightening walk with Mizuki's Youkai?