By Real Academia de Gastronomía
Real Academia de Gastronomía
Canarian Banana Plant LeavesReal Academia de Gastronomía
The cuisine of Spain's islands has its own unique character, defined by the strong influence of produce brought from the Americas (in the case of the Canaries) and by foreign occupiers (in the case of the Balearics). Their very nature as islands lends itself to local produce conditioned by the sea, land, natural resources, and climate.
The Canary Islands
This uniqueness is intensified in the case of the Canary Islands as a result of the distance between the archipelago and the peninsula, which makes them closer to Africa than Spain. Their produce and recipes stand out for their simplicity, while their cuisine retains the influence of their former role as a stopover point for those en route to the Americas. As a result, produce such as potatoes, tomatoes, millet (corn), and bananas are very popular.
"Papas arrugadas con mojo"Real Academia de Gastronomía
In fact, their potatoes (which have PDO status) are the star ingredient in one of the most typical recipes of the archipelago: "papas arrugadas" (wrinkly potatoes). These potatoes are accompanied by another essential feature of Canarian cuisine: "mojos" (sauces). The most famous "mojos" are red and green, but there is a wide range of recipes prepared with cilantro, garlic, and saffron, to name but a few ingredients.
"Papas arrugadas con mojo"Real Academia de Gastronomía
"Mojos" are also used to accompany fish—a food that cannot be overlooked, given that the Canaries are islands. Fula, sama, seabream, dogfish, vieja, and cherme are just some of the most widely eaten fish. The traditional "sancocho" (a thick soup), for example, is prepared with salted fish and accompanied by potatoes, sweet potatoes, and "mojo".
Fish Soup Infusion with Gofio Stew and Cilantro Sauce GelatinReal Academia de Gastronomía
"Gofio" (roasted wheat or corn grain) is another basic ingredient of Canarian cuisine, so much so that it has a Protected Geographical Indication seal. It can be eaten with milk at breakfast, as a bread-based accompaniment, or as part of recipes such as the popular "escaldón" ("gofio" mixed with broth until it becomes a somewhat thick dough), which usually accompanies fish casseroles or meat stews.
Canarian Banana PlantReal Academia de Gastronomía
Other Canarian produce that are noted for their quality are cheeses, amongst which 3 with PDO seals stand out (Majorero, Palmero, and flor de Guía), and bananas, which are certified with a PGI and have a unique, sweet taste and juicy texture that distinguishes them from other varieties in the world.
Carrots with Mandarins and NutsReal Academia de Gastronomía
Canarian produce is the object of creativity for many restaurateurs on the islands. It can even establish bridges between cultures, as in Nub (Tenerife), where Fernanda Fuentes and Andrea Bernardi dared to turn a potato into a fake truffle, or in El Rincón de Juan Carlos (Tenerife), where Juan Carlos and Jonathan Padrón turned a black potato into marbles as a garnish alongside an aged vinegar "gazpachuelo" (fish soup).
Galician Beef CarpaccioReal Academia de Gastronomía
In Bamira (Gran Canaria), palm honey is used to accompany turkey stew with green pepper, and in La Aquarela (Gran Canaria), they serve a Galician beef carpaccio in which the vinaigrette has been replaced by seaweed "mojo" and parmesan by Majorero cheese.
The Balearic Islands
The cuisine of the Balearic Islands is influenced by the different occupations that they have experienced throughout history. The Phoenicians, Greeks, English, and French have all left their mark on the islands' recipes and produce. That is why, despite having some common elements, the cuisine of each island is unique.
Fried OctopusReal Academia de Gastronomía
In Ibiza, seafood dishes are the most popular, such as fried octopus (with peppers, potatoes, garlic, and onions) or "bullit de peix," served as 2 courses, the first consisting of rock fish accompanied by vegetables, potatoes, and a mild aioli sauce, and the second of rice prepared with the fish broth itself. This is also a very popular recipe on nearby Formentera.
FlaóOriginal Source: eladerezo.com
In terms of desserts, "greixonera" (a type of pudding made with "ensaïmada" pastry) and "flaó" (a fresh cheesecake with mint leaves) are the most noted delicacies.
Mahón CheeseReal Academia de Gastronomía
In Menorca, seafood is also important, one of its most well-known dishes being lobster stew. However, one of the most important products of the island—Mahón cheese—comes from the land. Mahón cheese has a Protected Designation of Origin and although it bears the name of the capital, it is actually produced across the entire island.
Majorcan Black PigReal Academia de Gastronomía
On the island it's also common to make use of every part of the pig to make delicious cold meats, such as "cuixot" (cooked, chopped, and seasoned entrails with spices such as thyme) or "carn i xulla" (a kind of sausage with meat and bacon).
"Ensaimada"Real Academia de Gastronomía
Majorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands, is renowned for its intense "sobrasada" (sausage made from the best parts of the pig, seasoned with Spanish paprika and other spices) and its sweet "ensaimada" pastries. Both products are certified with quality seals.
TumbetReal Academia de Gastronomía
There are plenty more culinary delights on the island, however. Other popular dishes include "frito mallorquín" (a stew of lean pork or lamb with peppers and potatoes), "arròs brut" (a dark-toned rice with an intense flavor, made with vegetables and meat), and "tumbet" (a ratatouille that celebrates Majorcan vegetables).
The 4 seasons of Majorcan AlmondsReal Academia de Gastronomía
Chefs such as Andreu Genestra and Fernando Pérez Arellano have been able to add some creativity to the more humble produce of Majorcan cuisine in their well-known restaurants. Genestra, for example, has served the local almond (certified with a PGI) as a complement to dishes, including squid stew with piglet's ear. Pérez Arellano placed the almond center-stage in his "four stations" dessert that presents this nut in four different forms.
Roman-Jewish Artichokes in Garum Cream with Carob CrispsReal Academia de Gastronomía
In Menorca, restaurants such as Es Tast de na Silvia (champions of slow food) or Mon are committed to zero mile cuisine, highlighting local produce within technical and contemporary creations.
In Ibiza, Can Domo by Pau Barba or Re.Art by David Reartes are 2 interesting reference points for discovering Majorcan produce with just the right touch of creativity.
Text: Silvia Artaza
Image: David de Luis / Foods & Wines from Spain / Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade / Nub Restaurant / La Aquarela Restaurant / www.eladerezo.com / Zaranda Restaurant / Re.Art Restaurant.
Acknowledgements: Rafael Ansón, president of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy; Elena Rodríguez, director of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy; María García and Caroline Verhille, contributors to the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy.
Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy
This exhibition is part of the Spanish Gastronomy project jointly coordinated by Google Arts & Culture and the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy.