Fishermen fishing in the port (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
Everything starts in the sea. Fishing boats go out fishing at different times and in different fishing grounds. They generally use what are known as traditional fishing techniques: bottom trawling, with a large net that combs the sea bed; and trammel netting, using three layers of net on top of each other, along the coastline in rocky areas. This exhibition explains the fishing techniques in detail.
Fishermen fishing in the port (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
Most of the boats bring in fish that has already been classified according to species and size. The fish must be cleaned and then stored as soon as possible in crushed ice or small cubes of ice. However small the boat, and however short the voyage, they must always carry ice on board to preserve their catch.
Fishermen fishing in the port (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
The fishing boats reach the port and unload their precious cargo: fish, shellfish, mollusks … everything is unloaded correctly classified.
Fishermen fishing in the port (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
The boxes full of fresh fish are taken to the market. The market is an integral part of the fishing industry: square one, where the fish's journey to the restaurant or store begins.
Fish auction (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
Once the catch has been classified and unloaded from the boat, a market worker is responsible for recording the exact information: boat, fish species to be auctioned, weights, etc.
Fish auction (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
Every box is transported individually along a conveyor belt. The different screens show the image of the fish and the previously recorded information, such as who brought it, or what the starting price is.
Fish auction (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
The buyers (wholesalers, fish stores, or restaurants) have their own zone in the stands from where they can see the whole sales process. It is a reverse auction, so the starting price quickly decreases until a buyer determines an appealing price and stops the bidding by pressing his controller.
Fish auction (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
At that moment, the box reaches the end of the belt and its corresponding label is attached.
Fish stall at San Sebastián's Mercado de la Bretxa (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
If the buyer is a fish vendor, the fish purchased at the market goes directly to their store, where it can then be bought by any customer based on their tastes and requirements.
Ingredients for fish stew (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
In this case, let's make caldero de barca, a traditional dish from Villajoyosa, a famous fishing town on the coast of Alicante. Originally fisherman's fare, today it is a delicious recipe that can be found in many restaurants of the region. To make it we have bought rockfish such as Atlantic stargazer, red gurnard, weever, or moray eel.
Adding gurnard to a fish stew (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
For caldero de barca, the fish is cooked in a pot (caldero), which gives the dish its name.
Rice for the fish stew (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
The fish is accompanied by rice …
Fish stew with rice (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía
And it's ready to eat! The dish is served in two parts. First come the fish, potatoes, and cabbage, accompanied by the fish fumet (a reduced and seasoned stock) and a tasty aioli. Then, there is an arroz a banda (rice cooked in broth). Bon appétit!
Image: David de Luis
This exhibition is part of the Spanish gastronomy project, España: Cocina Abierta (Spain: Open Kitchen), coordinated by Google Arts & Culture and Spain's Royal Academy of Gastronomy (Real Academia de la Gastronomía). The section on culinary legacy was coordinated by María Llamas, director of the Alambique cookery store and school.
Special thanks to the Fishermen's Guild of Villajoyosa, the Wholesale fish market and the food market of Villajoyosa. With thanks to Tony Mayor, head chef at Taverna El Posit for his support and organisation.
Acknowledgements
Lourdes Plana Bellido, president of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy; Elena Rodríguez, director of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy and Carmen Simón, academic of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy.
www.realacademiadegastronomia.com
www.alambique.com