Geometry/Abstraction
The paring down of complex patterns — often described as decorative and ornamental in historical Indian textiles
National Institute of Fashion Technology
The textiles documented were commissioned for Visvakarma, a series of exhibitions on Indian handmade textiles, between the early 1980s and ‘90s.
Geometry/Abstraction (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
Geometry/Abstraction
The paring down of complex patterns — often described as decorative and ornamental in historical Indian textiles — to their essential geometrical features was a prominent feature of the Visvakarma commissions.
Geometry/Abstraction (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
This attitude was informed by the need to make contemporary textiles appealing to wider audiences than they did conventionally, through the removal of culturally specific markers and symbols.
Geometry/Abstraction (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
This process was aided by the involvement in their design processes of designers, defined as among the country's first, trained in pedagogies which looked to Western Modernism as their source.
Ikat Panel
The visual balance of the panel is kept by the arresting red borders on all four sides in scroll motif. Conch or sankha is blown traditionally as a good omen in India. It is believed that wherever the sound travels, such places will be blessed.
Patola Panel
The double ikat Patola panel is a fine example of geometry in textiles. The process of weaving with tie dyed yarns is a highly specialised skill, which has reached the acme of perfection in Patan in cluster.
Patola Panel
Double Ikat means that both the warp and the weft is tie dyed. The weaving is done by plotting the designs on a graph and the pattern unfolds as the weaving progresses.
Pethapur Directory -InstallationNational Institute of Fashion Technology
Pethapur Directory
The directory of Pethapur blocks has been executed on silk here. Across many block printing clusters of India especially in Gujarat, nails were fitted on wooden blocks so as to achieve small rounds while printing.
Clusters of small dots, in various arrangements are fascinating to watch grid wise and as a whole. The minutiae is reminiscent of another handcraft, the rai dana bandhej of Western India where tie dye knots are as small as the mustard seed.
In Indian cosmology, the dot or the bindu is the starting point of all creation. From that perspective, this panel is a clever arrangement of dots that push the creative limits to reveal geometric shapes and other familiar motifs of India’s design repository.
Brocade Panel -InstallationNational Institute of Fashion Technology
Brocade Panel
The silk panel features brocade woven in Benaras in gold, red and black. The metallic allure is captivatingly offset by black and red. Brocades of Benaras are often associated with opulent garments and furnishings in the Mughal empire.
Charbagh
The textile panel has followed the charbagh layout with four squares held together by a central medallion.
Charbagh
The central medallion is a brilliant gold sun with 12 boteh or paisleys inside. The development of boteh as a textile motif is a fascinating study of the spread of culture.
Charbagh
The detail of the corner motif shows Katar (arrow head) pattern framing the gold zari border. Each corner carries a quarter of the central medallion with three butas each. The placement of the arc suggests a very high level of sophistication in hand weaving.
Geometry/Abstraction (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
Weaving which is based on the principle of intersection employs complex geometry. Through tie dye and abstract patterning, textile craft of India exhibits a unique design language.
Text: Susan Thomas, Mayank Kaul
Photographs: Sanjeev C M, Chirodeep Chaudhuri
