Birds and Animals

The semiotic relationship of Hindu pantheon with birds and animals have meant a rich Indian tradition of textile art that is used in sacred spaces for display and everyday wearing.

National Institute of Fashion Technology

The textiles documented were commissioned for Visvakarma, a series of exhibitions on Indian handmade textiles, between the early 1980s and ‘90s.

Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Birds and Animals

Birds and Animals in Indian Textiles was the title and theme of the last of the Visvakarma exhibitions, a tribute to the late ornithologist and naturalist Dr Salim Ali. 

Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology

With the commissions reaching a decade long journey by now, their makers are seen to be uninhibited by the limitations of material, techniques and conventional designs. 

Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology

The textiles seem to pose a question on universality in aesthetics whatever be the material one chooses to express it. The pieces on display invite attention to art and artistry on textile panel achieved by weaving as well as surface design.

Morkuti Pichhavai -InstallationNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Morkuti Pichhavai

Here, the monsoon is represented through peacocks — aside from the intricacy of details in the painting, what is noteworthy is the balance achieved in the composition of three white peacocks with the blue, against the stark red of the ground.

Peacocks -DetailsNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Peacocks

A richly metallic tissue fabric, is used as the base here, in a blend of weaving and hand painting. The textile reflects light differently when viewed from different angles, introducing a dynamic sculptural dimension.  

Morpankhi -DetailsNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Morpankhi

The natural iridescence of peacock feathers is both complemented in its rarity of material by the use of silver yarn here, as it is contrasted through colour.

Horse Heads -InstallationNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Horse Heads

The highlight of this commission is the quality of free hand brush strokes achieved through tonal shades of colour, informed by those of the amethyst.

Macchh Ki Suiyan -InstallationNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Macchh Ki Suiyan

The Tanchoi is satin-based, and its structure is believed to have Chinese origins. It was woven in the 19th century in Gujarat in western India, and its absorption into the Varanasi repertory is believed to be from early to mid 20th century onwards.

Birds and Paisley -InstallationNational Institute of Fashion Technology

Birds and Paisley

This panel exemplifies such an attitude, in which hand-drawn imagery of birds and foliage are superimposed with that of the enduring motif of Ambi/Manga that became paisley in western design vocabulary.

Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology

From the hand drawn Pichhavai peacocks to gyasar length that has real peacock feathers woven into the fabric, jewel toned horse heads and buxom annapakshis (swans), the textiles stop you in your way with their rich colours and arresting finesse.

Credits: Story

Text: Susan Thomas, Dr. Ravikumar R, Mayank Kaul 
Photographs: Sanjeev C M, Chirodeep Chaudhuri

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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