The San Roque de Melide Cruceiro

Travel along Galicia's high roads and byroads and you'll see more than 10,000 stone crosses, known as cruceiros. The oldest of them all is right in the middle of the St. James Way.

Cruceiro and bridge of O Burgo (12th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

Anyone who comes to Galicia for the first time as a pilgrim heading for Santiago de Compostela will see countless large stone crosses. They are known as cruceiros, and are traditionally Galician.

Cruceiro and church of Santa María do Azogue (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

They stand next to roads, crossroads, squares, or in the courtyards of churches. It is estimated that Galicia has between 10,000 and 15,000 cruceiros. Many of them are located along the road to Compostela, marking the route taken by pilgrims.

Cruceiro and monastery of San Martiño do Couto (12th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

This Is What Cruceiros Look Like

Cruceiros can vary in appearance, although their basic structure tends to be the same.

Cruceiro and bridge of O Burgo (12th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

The Platform and the Pedestal

The base of a cruceiro is a platform, usually with steps, and a pedestal which often bears an inscription with the name of the person who commissioned it, or the year in which it was built. Some of them feature skulls, bones, snakes, and other symbols of death and sin.

Cruceiro in San Breixo de Parga (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

The Column

The central part is a column which is sometimes decorated with images of saints, or motifs representing the passion of Christ or original sin. Above the column is a capital, often featuring different styles and decorations.

Cruceiro on Mount Santa Trega (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

The Cross

The main element of a cruceiro sits at the very top: the cross. The side facing the main road has an image of Christ crucified, with the Virgin Mary or another saint on the other side.

Cruceiro de O Hío (1872) by José Cerviño García / Ignacio Cerviño QuinteiroOriginal Source: Axencia Turismo de Galicia

The composition can vary, with other figures such as angels or saints, or more complex scenes. One example is the cruceiro of O Hío, the largest in Galicia, on whose cross is depicted the un-nailing of Christ.

Virgin of the Rock on the mount of San Roque (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Cruceiros almost always stand alone, although some are arranged in groups of three crosses, known as calvaries.

Cruceiro in Padrón (2021)Regional Government of Galicia

The Origins of Cruceiros

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Their origins are a matter of debate. Many stone crosses were used to sanctify places that had been used for pagan worship, which is why they were erected on menhirs, petroglyphs, and Roman milestones. The Pedra da Serpe in Ponteceso is a well-known example.

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The oldest cruceiros are Gothic crosses that date back to the 14th century, and which at some point were placed on columns outside. One such example is the Home Santo cruceiro at the entrance to the St. James Way, depicting St. James and his disciples.

Cruceiro and granary on the Paseo de Monte Boi (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Cruceiros began to be built in increasing numbers from the 16th century onward, against the backdrop of the Counter-Reformation that followed the Council of Trent (1545–63), and continued to be built long after.

Cruceiro in San Breixo de Parga (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Cruceiros have several purposes: they mark territorial boundaries, they sanctify places, they protect harvests and livestock, and they commemorate events. Those located along roadsides are there to protect and guide travelers.

Cruceiro in Ourense (2021)Regional Government of Galicia

They were often funded by people hoping for divine indulgence, either for themselves or their loved ones, as can be seen in the inscriptions at the base of many cruceiros.

Cruceiro of the atrium of San Roque (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

The Melide Cruceiro: The Oldest in Galicia

Melide (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Melide (A Coruña) is a key location along the St. James Way, marking the point where the Primitive Way and the French Way meet. It is also the site of one of Galicia's most striking cruceiros.

Cruceiro de San Roque of Melide (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

The cruceiro is located in the courtyard of the chapel of San Roque, and dates back to the 14th century. It is believed to be the oldest in Galicia, according to Castelao, a writer, artist and important political figure in 20th-century Galicia, in his essay, As Cruces de Pedra na Galiza (1950).

Cruceiro of San Roque de Melide (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

It was probably not originally a cruceiro, but a Gothic cross that may have been part of an altarpiece in the church of St. Peter in Melide, which is no longer there.

Cruceiro of the atrium of San Roque (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

The front of the cross shows Christ crucified, along with the Virgin, St. John, and a kneeling figure.

Cruceiro of the atrium of San Roque (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

The back of the cross depicts Christ in Majesty: he is seated on a throne, crowned and showing the wounds on his hands.

Cross of Santa María de Melide (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Today, cruceiros are still key landmarks for pilgrims. Pilgrims can stop off for a rest in Melide, next to a fragment of history which has seen millions of pilgrims passing by during its 700-year existence.

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