Danke-ka-Kaam/ Faceted precious metal embroidery of Udaipur, Rajasthan

The danka are small faceted gold and silver metal discs which when embroidered on to textiles glint and reflect light akin to a diamond.

Danke-ka-Kaam remains relatively unknown outside its own geography and the danka lies at the heart of the opulent embroidered ceremonial poshaks worn by Mewari Rajput women at weddings and festive rituals. Their traditional garment-set comprising a kanchali/blouse, ghagara/full-length gathered skirt and odhna/head mantle. 

The Danka workshops are located in the colloquially named Boharwadi or colony of the Bohras where the making of the danka pieces and its embroidery is practiced by the tiny Bohra community who migrated to this area in the 16th century and continue their traditional practice today.

The danka is worked in the zardozi embroidery technique using metallic zari yarns that is couched on to sumptuous and brightly coloured silks, satins and velvet using a variety of needles  including the hooked needle ari

The danka is worked in the zardozi embroidery technique using metallic zari yarns

Saifuddin Zariwala is the senior-most of the practitioners. Now in his 70’s he is the seventh generation of his family in the craft. While a little over 25 artisans are engaged in Danke-ka-Kaam, the sole custodian of the skill  of making the hand-beaten faceted danka lies with Babu Bhai Qutubudin Zariwala who has passed on the family tradition to his daughter Sidhika Banu. It is in their karkhaana where the danka is meticulously crafted.