Izote flower, an exquisite Mexican tradition

Flower from a living hedgerow transformed into a delicacy in tesmole

Centrifugal image (2020-07-07) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

From the coffee plantation to the table

The shade-grown coffee plantations of the state of Veracruz bring a vibrant tropical ecosystem to life. Exotic plants, both endemic and introduced to this environment, are featured in a beautiful show.

Amaranth (2020-07-07) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Visual and physical border (2020-07-08) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Gastronomic traditions and scenery

Many of the trees, herbs, and flowers that live inside and around sustainable coffee plantations are edible and medicinal. Women producers use these elements in multiple ways. Ancient traditions and wisdom accompany them. 

Delicacy (2020-07-08) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Strength and delicacy (2020-07-08) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

The izote flower

The izote flower has stood out in Mexican gastronomy since pre-Hispanic times. It's also known as a yucca flower or cuaresmeña flower, because it blooms between February and April so it is usually consumed during Lent. Although in some places, such as Veracruz, it blooms until July.

Beautiful happy girl (2020-07-03) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Expert cook

Mrs. Elpidia Hernández has lived for 80 years in the central zone of the state of Veracruz. With her kind smile and noble gaze, she welcomed The Flowers of the Coffee Field team to teach us how to cook the traditional dish called chicken tesmole (stew) with izote flower.

A wise crowned and happy queen (2020-07-05) by Mark Quijano, Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Smels, flavors and colors (2020-07-03) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Tesmole or tezmole

From the Nahuatl textli, flour or corn masa dough, and mulli, mole. Tesmole is a warm broth dish or stew made with meat, vegetables and herbs, and thickened with corn masa dough or a root vegetable.

Treasure of knowledge (2020-07-03) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

The kitchen

Mrs. Elpidia's kitchen has an open flame stove that is fueled with wood. The ingredients and her cooking utensils are laid out on a wooden table covered with a floral tablecloth, embroidered with cross stitch. 

Ready to protect the delight (2020-07-03) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Puzzle of color, flavor and textures before assembly (2020-07-09) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Ingredients

The base ingredients for preparing this Mexican dish are: a bunch of izote flowers, corn masa dough, red tomatoes, onion, garlic, serrano chilis, epazote (Mexican herb) and chicken. Tesmole is prepared in the regional cuisines of Chiapas, Coahuila, State of Mexico, Guerrero, Hidalgo, Nuevo León, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas and Veracruz. In each of these states, and in each kitchen, other local and favorite ingredients are introduced and combined.

Still life with izote flower (2020-07-09) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Energy flowing (2020-07-03) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Recommendation from an expert

Mrs. Elpi, as her loved ones call her, tells us all about the izote flower. In these communities, the flower is collected freely on the fields. "If you see one in your path, you take it home." And a very important consideration for the chefs: "You only boil the leaves of the flower, because the center becomes bitter."

Elpidia and Itzel (2020-07-03) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

The final dish

An hour after starting to cook, the final aroma of the guiso (stew) floods our senses. The eyes of Itzel Mendoza, floral artist and heart of The Flowers of the Coffee Field Project, open wide in amazement when the dish reaches her hands, and when she tries it, she says from the depths of her soul: "Delicious!"

Gastronomic canvas (2020-07-03) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Credits: Story

The Flowers of The Coffee Field Project and Mexican Gastronomy - Colectivo Rokunin 2020
Fortín de las Flores, Veracruz, México 

Content and Text: Alejandra Mendoza, in collaboration with Norma Falcón
Floral Art: Itzel Mendoza
Design: Roberto González and Alejandra Mendoza
Illustrations: Mark Quijano 
Photographs: Itzel Mendoza, Moisés González and Gabriela Lavalle
License: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0.

Acknowledgments: To Doña Elpidia Hernández for opening her house and her heart to us.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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