Barter, rural food

Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México

In Mexico there are some street markets where people still barter, such is the case of the "Santuario" and the "Mojtakuntani," both Purépechas located in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán and the case of the Coscomatepec street market in central Veracruz, where rural families exchange their seasonal agricultural products.

"Coffee and bananas are exchanged for pumpkins, for wild mushrooms, for chard, for potatoes, for flowers, for quelites, for corn, for beans and thus the baskets are filled to feed the farming families with love."

Barter (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Those who barter are generally farming families who have surplus production of different foods. It is mainly women who carry out this activity and through this ancestral practice, community sense is strengthened.

Happiness when giving and receiving (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Landscapes, food, seeds, fruits, smiles and solidarity are some elements that stand out in the barter of Coscomatepec.

Measuring the exchanged products (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Making a change, exchange or barter (trueque) requires a preparation process to collect the food that will be exchanged. Women farmers prepare the products that they're going to change from the harvest of the previous day.

A fruit market stall (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Food sovereignty

It is the right of every human being to be able to choose what food to consume, the quantity and form for its consumption, and that these foods be nutritious.

Freshly made (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

The grandmothers of the fields say: “What is abundant does not cause damage,” meaning that if you have a lot of a product you can go and exchange it at the market. Without the need for money these women get their weekly food. 

Food sovereignty (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Colors, smells, textures

The barter market never lacks ranch eggs, wild flowers, aromatic herbs, colorful corn....

Typical products of the region, Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), 2021-01-14, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Wide range of spices and food supplements, Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), 2021-01-14, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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The foods exchanged in this traditional market are generally organic and seasonal, so every Monday the smells, colors and flavors of the market change.

Nutritional wealth (2021-01-14) by Celeste Laviani (photographer), Itzel Mendoza (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Rural food

The final result

With the products exchanged in the market, the women cook succulent dishes with which they nourish the body and soul of their families.

Credits: Story

Gastronomy Project - Colectivo Rokunin 2021
Barter, Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México. 

Content and Text: Itzel Mendoza and Gisela Illescas
Style correction: Alejandra Mendoza
Design: Roberto González
Photographs: Celeste Laviani 

Licence: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. 
Thanks to Café Femcafe, Vida A.C. and Sanásana

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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