Maiko Takeda: dematerialising fashion
Ethereal and otherworldly body adornments that dissolve the boundaries between fashion, millinery and jewellery
Maiko Takeda
Maiko Takeda's creations evoke both awe and intrigue. She transforms tangible and mundane materials into surreal and ethereal experiences, for the wearer and the surrounding environment. The milliner and accessory designer was born in Tokyo in 1986, and moved to London at the age of 18 to pursue her love for art and design. In 2009 she completed her studies in BA Jewellery Design (Hons) at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. Her fascination for creating objects for the head led her to study further in MA Fashion Womenswear (specialism: Millinery) at the city's Royal College of Art, from which she graduated in 2013.
"Ⅸ", short movie (excerpt) (2013) by George Tsioutsias Marlon RuebergJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Atmospheric Reentry
Ⅸ (excerpt)
Directed by George Tsioutsias
Art Directed by Marlon Rueberg
© Royal College of Art
Atmospheric Reentry: “What does it feel like to wear a cloud?"
This was the question that Takeda set out to answer with her Atmospheric Reentry collection. The range of sculptural, spiny pieces was influenced by the androgyny and repetition in Philip Glass and Robert Wilson's opera Einstein on the Beach, which she saw in London in 2012. The project first manifested during her post-graduate studies, and continues to be developed through refining the techniques used to produce such unique designs.
Sketchbook, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2012) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Idea development
“Through the experiment process, I developed the technique to create a visual effect of intangible aura. I wanted to keep something tactile and analog about the pieces, and didn’t want to use LED lights or anything with a motor or battery. The effect is that they somehow look digital, but the point was to make them from everyday low-tech materials.”
Early sketchbook and experiment, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Materials and techniques
In initial experiments, layers of clear film were attached to paper printed with blue circles of different sizes. Laid flat, the patterns looked 2D, but spherical forms appeared when the spikes were pushed vertical.
Material experiments, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Materials and techniques
Takeda then tried a range of techniques to attach tinted clear spines to different materials.
Making process, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Materials and techniques
Eventually, she settled on transparent plastic spikes tinted with colour gradients at the tips. These are held in place between sections of acrylic joined by small silver rings.
Making process, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Materials and techniques
“First I prepare hundreds of clear films with gradients of translucent colours printed on them. Then the cross shapes with divided, pointy ends are cut out. One by one, these are folded by 90 degrees upwards by hand."
Making process, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Construction method
“Each of these pieces is sandwiched with square acrylic discs and linked together with rhodium-plated tiny metal rings. Finally these units are linked to create a surface to fit the silhouette of the body.”
Inverted, extroverted, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Structure
"As the whole structure remains flexible it has a fluid movement echoing the movement of the wearer.
“Also what I like about this chainmail-like structure is that it can be turned inside out like a hedgehog. When inverted it looks like a crystal in a rock.
“The making process is extremely labour intensive yet quite repetitive and logical, which I find therapeutic and fun.”
"Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Collaboration
Icelandic musician Björk collaborated with Takeda to create costumes for her 2013 Biophilia tour and 2015 Vulnicura album cover. The singer also wore the designs in her music video for lionsong.
"Lionsong" music video, Björk (2015) by BjörkJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
lionsong, 2015
Björk's music video featuring Takeda's Atmospheric Reentry designs
Video by Inez and Vinoodh
Luminousity
As Takeda continues to develop the Atmospheric Reentry collection, iterations have included masks with glow-in-the-dark bristles. Ever growing and evolving, the series still has more designs still to come.
POSTatmos, 2014
Film created in collaboration with POSTmatter
Creative Director : Remi Paringaux
Cinematography: a fascination with the body
Takeda’s earlier experiments with body adornments resulted in the Cinematography collection. This playful series was born while she was studying at Central Saint Martins, and features perforated metal designs that cast exquisite shadow upon the wearer and their immediate surroundings.
"Cinematography", Collar (left), Headpiece (middle) and Hat (right) (2009) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Cinematography, 2009-10
Each of the metal pieces in the collection is punctured with patterns made from tiny holes. When light shines through the designs, they produce shadows of flowers, animals and facial features.
Inverted headpiece, "Atmospheric Reentry" (2013) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Initial experiments
Takeda used photography, negatives and quick material tests to begin to form the imagery she desired.
Sketchbook, "Cinematography" (2009) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Concept
“I did many tests with different motifs, such as cats, dogs, lilies, roses and eyes, but always ended up choosing the ones that had a seductive element to them. So I picked cats rather than dogs, and roses rather than lilies."
Making process, "Cinematography" (2009) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Production
Holes are drilled into sheets of metal. The perforations vary in size to create intricate images, which help to blur the shadows when illuminated.
Sketchbook, "Cinematography" (2009) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Production
Surfaces are then sanded for a smooth and matt finish.
"Cinematography", Dress (2010) by Maiko TakedaJapan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation
Final results
Takeda’s unique designs are simultaneously delicate and powerful, imbuing both wearer and viewer with otherworldly enchantment.
Maiko Takeda: an emerging talent
Takeda's work is not only immediately spellbinding, but its intricacy, subtleties and playfulness leave a lasting impression. The collections shown here form just the start of her career, offering a glimpse of the magic that is surely still to come. As Takeda continues to develop as a designer, her pieces will no doubt become more thoughtful and provocative, so future collections will also be guaranteed to enchant.
Designer: Maiko Takeda
Curator: Dan Howarth
Coordination: GAS AS INTERFACE Co., Ltd.
