What's for Breakfast in Egypt?

A history of the iconic ful and ta’meyya combo

Ful (Fava Beans) On TrayRAWI Publishing

Ful (Fava Beans)

Today, slowly stewed fava beans are the go-to Egyptian breakfast, but this hasn’t always been the case. The ancient Egyptians do not seem to have eaten fava beans. They appear to have only become popular around Greek and Roman times but were certainly a staple of Egyptian street food by the medieval period.

Traditionally, large globular earthenware vessels full of fava beans were buried in hot ashes to cook overnight, which is how the word mudammas probably came to be: twmc is the Coptic word originating from a very similar sounding ancient Egyptian word meaning ‘to bury’.

Ta'meyya (Falafel)RAWI Publishing

Popular as it is today, there is no mention of ta‘meyya in accounts by travellers to Egypt before the 19th  c. What is certain, however, is that the dish was well established in Egypt by the early 20th c. and has since become, along with ful, the quintessential Egyptian breakfast. 

Ta‘meyya

Many believe that this Egyptian staple started as a poor man’s substitute for meat or a Copt’s vegan sustenance during periods of fasting. As is the case with many foods everywhere, it is difficult to pinpoint an exact origin.

Seasonal Ta'meyya (Falafel)RAWI Publishing

Seasonal Ta'meyya

The typically green ta‘meyya of today that is available year-round is actually a product of modern agriculture. Until the 1980s, the dried fava beans were soaked in water, then ground and combined with herbs and seasonings to make ta‘meyya, which could either be white or green depending on the seasonal availability of leafy herbs like dill, cilantro, and parsley.      

Ta'meyya or Falafel Being Cooked (2019)RAWI Publishing

Is it Ta‘meyya or is it Falafel?

Although the two words are used interchangeably in Egypt, the two foods are not the same elsewhere. Ta‘meyya, a purely Egyptian word, refers to fried fava bean patties, that are green on the inside. Falafel, on the other hand, refers to ground chickpea patties, golden on the inside.

Like feta cheese, baclava and even French fries, this is one of the most controversial foods in the world, which goes to show how intimately food relates to cultural identity.

Moustafa Elrefaey - Falafel ChampionRAWI Publishing

Give it a Try!

In the upcoming video, chef Moustafa Elrefaey (Co-Founder of Zooba Homegrown & winner of the London Falafel Festival, 2016) will show us how to make the perfect ta'meyya (Egyptian falafel) at home. As easy as it may seem, not everyone can get it right. You need it to be crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, and of course, bursting with flavour. Watch the video and give it a shot! 

Chef Moustafa Elrefaey on how to make Ta'meyya (Egyptian Falafel) (2020)RAWI Publishing

For more on popular Egyptian foods, check out what's on the menu for lunch in Egypt.

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