Cathedral of Mondoñedo

Discover the insignia of the Camino del Norte, a perfectly proportioned historical monument.

Mondonedo, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

To the north of the Lugo province, in the middle of a valley that alternates between crops and trees, is the town of Mondoñedo, the greatest collection of landmarks pilgrims come across in Galicia on the Camino del Norte. 

Mondoñedo Cathedral (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

It is a small locality with an important cultural legacy. It was constructed around the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, which, in contrast to typical medieval cathedrals, is at the town's lowest elevation point and borders the urban quarter.

Pedro Pardo de Cela (1883) by Manuel Ángel ÁlvarezOriginal Source: Axencia Turismo de Galicia

Right in front of this cathedral was the execution site of Marshal Pardo de Cela, a regional medieval figure who made history and legend after confronting Queen Isabella of Castille, who ordered his death.

This plaza was also home to Álvaro Cunqueiro, a distinguished Mondoñedo writer who was highly skilled at reinventing myths, mixing cultural and popular aspects, and inserting fantasy into the mundane. He was one of the biggest names in Galician and Spanish writing in the 20th century.

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Up until the 12th century, the headquarters of the Episcopal Church were based in San Martiño de Mondoñedo (Foz), very close to the sea, in one of the most interesting original Roman buildings in Europe. However, due to ongoing Norman and Viking invasions, the church was influenced to move the current center, which was called Vilamaior de Brea until this point.

Mondonedo, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

The cathedral began construction on this new site in the first half of the 13th century in a sober and austere Roman style, similar to Cistercian architecture at the time.

Mondoñedo Cathedral, interior (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

Following this monastic sobriety, which seemed to be the source of inspiration of its foremen, it is a building with three naves, with a rib vault above pointed arches that escapes any superfluous decoration.

Rose window of the Cathedral of Mondoñedo (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

Its unmistakable facade is composed of three ogival arches corresponding to the three naves of the interior, and a 14th-century central rose window with polychromatic stained glass.

Mondonedo, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Its two unusual Baroque towers call attention to its limited height, a very rare feature. Because of this, the building was commonly known as the kneeling cathedral.

From the top of the cathedral, you can see the entire Val de Brea valley, which surrounds the city. It is a space for preserving millennia-old traditions such as hand bell ringing, a traditional occupation that has disappeared from most churches but is still maintained in this cathedral.

Medieval paintings, Cathedral of Mondoñedo (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

Highlights of the artworks housed in its interior include the late 16th-century mural paintings in a Gothic style. These show scenes of the Slaughter of the Innocents and episodes of the life of San Pedro.

Medieval paintings, Cathedral of Mondoñedo (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

Choir of the Cathedral of Mondoñedo (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

The choir stalls in a Gothic style, made of walnut wood and moved from their original location, have been preserved in the north arm of the basilica. The bishop's balcony, constructed by Francisco Quiroga Palacios in 1770, is located in the south arm.

Cloister, Mondoñedo Cathedral (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

A door lets us access the cloister, constructed between 1636 and 1641. It is a plain building in a Herrerian style, a rarity in Galicia, with semicircular arches supported by a balustrade with spheres. The central Gothic cross is a remnant of the pre-medieval cloister.

Mondonedo, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

To meet the needs of the curia, the canons building, the Episcopal Palace, the orchard, and annexes were attached to the basilica in the 19th century, now forming the collection of buildings we can visit today.

Mondoñedo Cathedral, interior (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

The cathedral museum hosts an interesting collection of 15th-century English alabasters, huge 16th-century flamenco tables, and significant silver and marble liturgic items: staffs, plates, chalices, monstrances, processional crosses, and candelabras.

Mondonedo, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Mondoñedo and its valley are a place where time seems to have stood still. It is one of the most unique and incredible stops along the whole Camino del Norte. A city for recovering and rediscovering the human scale of the pilgrimage.

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