By Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
“Mardley-zome” is a dyeing technique in which varied patterns are created through stirring colored pastes.
Mardley-zome 「Made in Japan：日本の匠」 (2016) by Kawahara RyotaroKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
By applying the special technique of ladling used in suminagashi dyeing which was developed in the Meiji period (1868-1912), the art of transferring marbled paste dyes onto fabric was born in the Taishō period (1912-26).
Using various tools and methods of stirring creates an infinite variety of pattern variations.
The lines flow naturally, delicately mixing into a fusion of colors that has a unique appeal not found in other dye methods.
Tools are used according to the desired outcome, such as comb, bow, brush, rake or a stick to stir the iro-nori (dye paste).
the dye paste
The dye is mixed with Yuzen-nori (paste) made from starch, rice barn, and salt then the viscosity is adjusted to each color; the jiiro-nori (base color paste) for the dominate color and sashiiro-nori (enhancing color paste) for varieties of contrasting colors.
(applying the base color)
First the base colour, jiiro-nori is spread evenly over a wooden board with a flat squeegee. The thickness and viscosity of the paste is adjusted according to the desired pattern.
(applying the enhancing colors)
The main sashiiro-nori is applied first, and then the color(s) used as accents applied on top of the prepared jiiro-nori. The amount of each color paste is adjusted to the pattern.
the color past
Tools such as comb, bow, or rake-like implements are used to stir the colorful dye pastes so that they swirl together and form various patterns.
the colors onto the fabric
When the desired patterns are completed, fabric is laid carefully on top of the dye paste, so that the colors adhere to the fabric.
Once the pattern is transferred onto the fabric, the fabric is carefully removed from the board. Then sawdust is applied evenly over both sides of the fabric.
With the sawdust still applied, the fabric is steamed. Extra attention must be made so that the paste doesn’t touch each other.
Rinsing with water
The stunning patterns of organic lines surface when the sawdust and paste are rinsed away in running water.
Heating the dry cloth makes it easier to shape the garment when tailoring and enriches the texture.
The fabric is then cut and tailored according to the design to complete the dress.
The patterns, such as kuzaku (peacocks), kanze-mizu (water waves), yagasuri (arrowheads), shibori (tie-dye), tachidaki (waterfall), kaigara (shells), are created during the procedure by the placement of the sashiiro-nori and by the method of stirring.
“Mardley-zome” can achieve infinite patterns using special tools to intersect dots and lines of various colours creating natural movement. Beyond the use for Kimono’s and small accessories, the technique seeks possibilities in a wide range of fields, such as western garments and home decor.
Stool, Mardley-zome (2016)Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
Lamp shade, Mardlay-zome (2016)Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
Sensu (Fan), Mardley-zome (2015)Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
Dress, Mardley-zome (2016) by Kawamura SayuriKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
Information and images provided by:
MARDLEY Co., Ltd.
Supervision & text:
Kawahara Ryotaro (Ritsumeikan University)
Dr. Aoki Mihoko (Kyoto Women's University)
Kawamura Sayuri (Kyoto Women's University Faculty of Home Economics Department of Apparel and Space Design)
Exhibition created by:
Sugishima Tsubasa (Kyoto Women's University Faculty of Home Economics Department of Apparel and Space Design)
Miyo Kurosaki Bethe
Melissa M. Rinne (Kyoto National Museum)
Dr. Shinya Maezaki (Kyoto Women's University)
Dr. Masako Yamamoto (Ritsumeikan University)