Honba Oshima Tsumugi Fabric

Honba Oshima Tsumugi is a textail that is representative of the traditional crafts of Kagoshima Prefecture which has a long history and tradition.  It likes nearly a year to weave one bolt of fabric.  Starting with the design, the process is roughly divided into 30 steps.  Each of the steps requires highly complexed skilled techniques.

The dyeing technique is based on methods dating to the year 661, during the time of Emperor Tenji(626-671,r 668-671).

Honba Oshima Tsumugi uses silk threads are resist-dyed (kasuri) in both the warp and weft to create setatiled "splash" patterns when woven.  Up until mid-Meiji period (late 19th century), the kasuri patterns where made using basho thread (Japanese banana plant) to hand-bind the silk threads.  By the Meiji 40's (1907), leo Nagae from Amami-Oshima invented a kasuri technique called Orishime-gasuri using a binding loom (shimebata) which made it possible to create the unique intricate kasuri patterns characteristic to Honba Oshima Tsumugi.  

The kasuri pattern for each thread is plotted onto paper.  This is work that needs in-depth knowledge of all dyeing, weaving and binding kasuri techniques. The plotted graph serves as  a guide that takes the artisans through the laborious and time consuming production process.

Starch is applied to the measured kasuri threads and dried till stiff.

The resist pattern threads that are woven to from the "spash pattern mat" (kasuri-mushiro) and the threads for the ground color are immersed in the dye bath.  Oshima Tsumugi uses various dyeing methods, such as the chic traditional technique of mud dyeing and natural dyes like indigo and yamamomo (Morella rubra), as well as synthetic dyes which offer an array of colors. 

The cotton threads that where woven in to protect the resisted portions of the silk threads for the kasuri pattern are removoed using a special tool.

After coloring all kasuri and the all the cotton threads are taken out, the kasuri threads are finished.

The kasuri warp is arranged according to the graph sketch.

When the preparation pf all kasuri and ground wrap and weft threads is completed, the threads are set on the loom.  The weaving-in process involves matching the kasuri patterns on the weft threads by thread with a needle: the work requires patience and skill.

Dyeing with yeddo hawthorn bark (techigi) and mud is a textile technique unique to Oshima Tsumugi.  The elegance of the lustrous, austere black color and the sturdy, comfortable feel of the fabric has attracted many fans. 

Oshima Tsumugi dyed in natural indigo such as Ryukyu-ai (Ryukyu indigo) and tadeai (Polygonum tinctoria).  This "Japan Blue" has been popular since oldest times. 

A myriad color tones and gradations expand the possibilities of Oshima Tsumugi.  The detailed kasuri patterns and the harmony of the colors show off the skills of Honba Oshima Tsumugi.