By Museimpresa
MUMAC
MUMAC - The first museum of professional espresso machine by Gruppo Cimbali (2012) by La CimbaliMuseimpresa
Extract
MUMAC, the Gruppo Cimbali Coffee Machine Museum, tells not one but lots of different stories: the stories of each one of us, an exhibition dedicated to Google Arts & Culture that, from detail, aims to extract the best of Italian expression linked to espresso coffee.
Countless details of beauty, design and style characterise the technological evolution of the discoveries, patents and innovations of over 120 years of the history of professional espresso coffee machines, following one another online directly from the exhibition halls of the world's most important museum dedicated to an entire sector of Italian-made products and all the brands that have made them famous throughout the world.
Espresso in detail
Style can be seen in the details and the details tell the story, also of coffee.
Floral, modernist, rationalist, lavish, minimalist, futuristic or traditional, always functional, every detail underpins the Italian style, to acquire intangible cultural heritage status.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of Eterna, Super Watt (1920) by Super WattMuseimpresa
"The art is in the details."
Gustave Flaubert
The ritual of coffee, inherent to the concept of relationship, is the result of eras, research, innovations, details and styles that have brought their contribution and creativity, adding important and indispensable pieces to make coffee as we understand it today, as 'naturally' espresso. But well over a century has gone by before a cup was placed on a machine with a logo artfully created with recycled coffee grounds, with a view to sustainability and circular economy...
The beginnings
The taste for coffee flourished in every sense at the beginning of the 20th century, in response to the demand to serve several cups quickly in cafés that were acquiring a crucial social and cultural role, to socialise, discuss, and share ideas.
The roots of this story can be traced in Turin and in Angelo Moriondo’s presentation of a “very curious displacement machine used to make three hundred cups of steam coffee in an hour”, also described as a “miracle coffee maker”, at the 1884 Italian Exposition. It was steam, no longer gravity, that forcefully pushed the water through the ground coffee and allowed it to be 'instantly brewed into a drink', but not yet 'expressed'.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of Condor, Extra Lusso (1926) by CondorMuseimpresa
"Art is either plagiarism or revolution."
Paul Gauguin
A vibrant energy fuels progress in every sector: it was in 1901 that Luigi Bezzera patented the brewing group, which is different because 'with his invention, the cup is single and therefore the coffee is always served fresh', unlike previous extraction methods.
Thus was born a new way of extracting coffee that, from 1905, would take the name Espresso, from when Desiderio Pavoni, proposed the 'Ideale brevetto Bezzera' machine, presented for the first time in 1906 at the Universal Exhibition in Milan, with enamel and bronze decorations of leaves and beans of the exotic coffee plant, a prelude to the culture and ritual of espresso, born at the 'express' request of the customer.
Logo details of the first espresso coffee machine, Ideale by La Pavoni. After acquiring the patent of the 1901 from Luigi Bezzera, Pavoni released Ideale, the first coffee machine to make coffee upon ‘express’ request of the customer. The machinist, skilfully dosing hot water and steam, prepared the drink on demand, using a fresh dose of coffee each time.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of Insuperabile, Fratelli Snider (1920) by SniderMuseimpresa
Liberty style
Polished, elegant, sophisticated, with soft and fluid forms, naturalist decorations and exotic details, the Liberty movement transformed the start of the 20th century into an authentic Belle Epoque, “a cry of freedom, a desire for all of the beautiful and idealistic things”.
The machines symbolise energy, warmth, industry, modernity; the details put on columns and domes showed the plant, the fruit and sometimes also the white flower of the coffee, largely unfamiliar to the general public. Boilers of the machines ape those of the modern locomotives, celebrated at the Milan International fair in 1906 dedicated to transport, held to inaugurate the Paris-Milan railway line and the Simplon Tunnel, the longest in Europe and symbol of ongoing progress.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of Universal Mignonne (1920) by UniversalMuseimpresa
Roaring Twenties
“Everything seemed possible in the 1920s": the delicate softness of the Liberty style gave way to the energy of jazz and the rationalism of the Art Deco of the following decade with symmetrical forms, geometric decorations, stylised applications, and clean and essential lines.
The creativity of the Roaring Twenties knows no limit or measure, so much that some of the logos on the new 'espresso' machines evoke powerful symbols associated with the idea of an endless, unique and immortal cycle. Artists and craftsmen transform reality into dreams of distant worlds through everyday objects capable of opening the mind and expanding knowledge. Coffee machines also tend towards a perfect balance between impressiveness and refinement, opulence and glamour, luxury and progress
The precision of the mechanics was complemented by the attention to style, the designs now simplified and pared back with curved lines, geometric forms and the elimination of all superfluous details. The Manifesto of Mechanical Art captured the dynamism and the fast rhythm of modern life, particularly in the city, where ordering an espresso at a bar had now become the norm, and just before the Second World War there were over 5000 working machines in Milan alone.
Aesthetic evolution dances with technological innovation on clean volumes, polished chrome surfaces, lightness and mass-producibility, emphasising the importance of a synthesis between form and function, beauty and utility.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of Ala, La Cimbali (1932) by La CimbaliMuseimpresa
Rapida
Metaphor for a quick coffee produced by a functional machine, child of its era in terms of its style and motif, is La Rapida, the first model marketed by Ditta Giuseppe Cimbali under the brand name “copper construction - coffee machines - soda saturators”.
“We say that the magnificence of the world has been enriched with a new form of beauty: the beauty of speed”
Enrico Prampolini
Detail of manometer and emblem with 3 circles (Officina Cimbali Giuseppe) of La Rapida by La Cimbali, the first model ever to be produced by the historic Milanese brand. In line with the other machines of the time, it has a classic column machine with an upright boiler and a hybrid system (electric and gas) for heating the water, in order to compensate for the difficulty in accessing energy sources.
La Cimbali Ala machine. It is an horizontal machine with an hybrid system. The logo has the typical design and style of the time.
Essentiality and cleanliness, functionality and efficiency: rationalist design embraces the dictat 'Forms follow functions' and embraces technological innovations in design, seeking to solve practical problems without compromising form.
In the 1940s even coffee machines became witnesses to efficiency and design, combining aesthetic harmony with optimisation of consumption. Bronze, brass, chrome-plated copper, steel and plexiglass characterise the new horizontal models to make the work of the machinist easier: the pressure to be controlled, the steam to be dispensed, the groups to be manoeuvred are moved to one side, to allow coffee to be served in less time and more safely.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of Ala, La Cimbali (1932) by La CimbaliMuseimpresa
“Coffee is balm for the heart and stimulant for the soul”
Giuseppe Verdi
The first model of horizontal coffee machine produced by La Cimbali was Ala, with a cup-warming surface and a hybrid heating system, to work with any available energy source. And those knobs with which the 'machinist' had to steer the machine to expertly extract the coffee were quite similar to those that another machinist in industrious Milan had to use: the tram driver.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine detail of D.P. 47 La Cornuta, La Pavoni (1947) by La PavoniMuseimpresa
“Simplicity is the key to true elegance”
Coco Chanel
One of a kind, elegant and slender, with streamlined shapes in chrome-plated steel, the Pavoni model D.P. 47, created by the hand of Gio Ponti in 1947, is a true masterpiece of design: a perfect marriage of aesthetics and functionality, sculptural forms and innovative interpretation of traditional lever machines, it represents the summa of the thought of the Maestro of functionalism: 'Woe to the machine that confesses the fatigue of its own work; even in machines, as in men, we appreciate the hermeticism of the organism, the skill of work, the elegance of effort'.
“Every object that we design must have a raison d'être, a purpose, a role." (Gio Ponti)
No one better summed up the style of an era of transition between the functional and the ephemeral, the 'sublime' and the extravagant than Mademoiselle Chanel. Clean and sober lines also recall the essence of modernism in coffee filters and advertising posters that, from simple and informative advertisements, emphasise the imagery of modernity and progress with more sophisticated and persuasive metrics, vibrant colours, stylised shapes and captivating texts.
Natural Coffee Cream
The coffee of the origins was very different to the drink we know today: it was black, burnt by steam, bitter and boiling hot. From the beginnigs, people would have to wait more than forty years for one of the distinctive features of a real italian espresso: the Natural Coffee Cream
Behind the “Natural Coffee Cream” there is a patent filed in 1938 and, ten years later, the introduction by the barista Achille Gaggia, of a piston mechanism that pushed the water through the coffee powder at high pressure and temperature, without the use of steam. Produced in collaboration with FAEMA, founded in ’45, the Gaggia Classica was followed by the Faema Saturno with its “Hydrocompressed Coffee Infusion” and the La Cimbali Gioiello, with its “Cimbalino”.
MUMAC - Espresso coffee machine details of levers (1950)Museimpresa
The lever
The real revolution of espresso coffee machines was the invention of the lever, first produced by Gaggia in the FAEMA workshops in 1948. With lever and without steam, the beverage was dispensed in thirty seconds, without any burnt notes, topped with the typical espresso cream.
This technology elevated espresso to cult status and transformed the figure of the “machinist”, the person who formerly operated the coffee machine thanks to his stoker’s licence, into a “counter operator”, i.e. an expert user of the lever machine, positioned on the counter in front of the customer, thus giving rise to the ritual of consuming coffee at the bar.
The logos and decorations of the coffee machines recall the period, the prestige and sometimes the identity of the city in which they were manufactured, such as the winged lion of San Marco, centuries-old symbol of Venice and the company, the “Torino” by Arduino, the Gaggia Montecarlo and the first understated FAEMA logo with the snake under Milan Cathedral inside which the coffee machine is forged. In 1958 Universal proposed even a choice of ceramic plates depicting typical Italian landscapes.
MUMAC - Espresso Coffee machine Detail of Gioiello, La Cimbali (1950) by La CimbaliMuseimpresa
“Pressure makes diamonds”
George Patton
The lever machines became genuine jewels, and were marketed as such: in 1950, for example, La Cimbali presented its new Gioiello at Milan Trade Fair encased in a jewellery box which further emphasised the machine’s precious design when opened. The multifaceted bodywork and sophisticated details became striking elements that would soon be synonymous with “cream coffee”.
With Cimbalino, espresso becomes coffee
With Granluce, Italian espresso is transformed into Cimbalino, "Whole Cream-Coffee: aromatic, stimulating, creamy and hot, in other words the perfect coffee”, as an advertisement of the time described it.
Flashy, irreverent, dynamic were the cars of the 1950s, including 'the dream among dreams', the Fiat 1900 Granluce. And Granluce was also the name of La Cimbali's coffee machine, which dominated the scene in cafés thanks to a beam of light that went up the bodywork and drew its contours, while on the curved transparent band of the cup warmer, the words 'un Cimbalino' directed the choice towards the first intense, round, creamy, finely-textured espresso.
MUMAC - Espresso Coffee machine triptych of FAEMA coffee machines (1960) by FAEMAMuseimpresa
“Light is that which allows us to see everything"
Carl Gustav Jung
With flying saucers, designs that evoked the reactors of the first missiles launched into space, the warmth of energy, unique lights and reflections, levers among the controls, transparent front panels and chrome bodywork, the coffee machines of the 1950s and 60s, with their space age names, stood out in every sense on the bar counter of the era.
Carlo Ernesto Valente, founder of FAEMA, passionate about astronomy, expressed this passion in the machines' names. Saturno, the most imposing and important, Mars with futuristic lines, Venus with delicate features and Urania, which stood out for its aesthetics and functionality, anticipate the uniqueness of E61, dedicated to the last total eclipse of the sun visible in Italy in 1961, and soon recognised as a technological and aesthetic style icon in the espresso coffee firmament.
The economic boom and optimism of the 1950s and 1960s can be tasted in bars, where coffee becomes a ritual not only of passage but of meeting, confrontation, relationships under the banner of dynamism, pragmatism and extemporaneity. Espresso machines towered over the counters, vying for attention with the juke-box, the pinball machine, the billiard table, the pack of cards.
FAEMA was founded as Fabbrica Apparecchiature Elettromeccaniche e Affini (Electromechanical and Related Equipment Factory). Before producing coffee machines, the company manufactured toasters, hairdresser hoods, juicers, ice crushers, blenders, vacuum cleaners, hair dryers and floor polishers. After it began producing coffee grinders, bar counters, espresso ice cream machines, coolers, air conditioners, ice makers, water heaters and jukeboxes. In short, a veritable ‘concerto’ of products!
MUMAC - Espresso Coffee machine Detail of Edoardo Bianchi Velo (1971) by BianchiMuseimpresa
Winner Style
Clean forms, in innovative materials with bold and vibrant colours like plastic, Formica, glass, chrome-plated steel and wood, often in contrasting shades: design becomes minimalist and extremely functional, with objects designed and mass produced to meet people’s everyday needs.
In the 1960s, coffee machines were enhanced with increasingly sophisticated workmanship: from the fluid shapes of new polymers to the use of smooth, polished materials such as stainless steel, to the honeycomb processing of sheet metal. In 1969 FAEMA presented the Prestige and Metodo models with one of the first plastic bodies for espresso machines: the Makrolon® modular panel structure was available in different colours and could easily be detached to carry out maintenance.
Pitagora is the only coffee machine to win the aspired design award Compasso d'Oro and the reasons given still resonate today: “the Pitagora machine [...] testifies to a conscious effort to rationalise and simplify the use and maintenance of the tool, and to use of a new material in this specific field for the bodywork [...]. The overall results are therefore notable, particularly considering the responsibility involved in designing a product for general consumption”
“A good project isn’t born with the aim of leaving its mark, the mark of the designer, but with the goal of establishing a relationship, even if fleeting, with the unknown person that will use the object we have designed”aspired
Achille Castiglioni
MUMAC - Espresso Coffee machine M100, La Cimbali (2012) by La CimbaliMuseimpresa
Coffee Intelligence
Under pressure to conquer increasingly larger markets, professional coffee machines became ever smarter from a functional, technology and aesthetic perspective.
The aesthetics changed, research switched to the brew groups, and the machines became smaller and more compact to give the barista more room at the sides and free up space for consumers at the bar, also changing the relationship between the barista and the customer: the machine was moved to the back of the bar to ensure greater productivity but the barista now had to turn their back to customers.
Firstly electromechanics enabled the first fully-automatic machines to brew coffee at the push of a button; then the introduction of electronics made the machines easier to use while guaranteeing high levels of precision, making Italian espresso a household name all over the world. During Dolcevita coffee machines also introduced innovations that permitted total automation, ensuring consistently excellent results and quality and contributing to the spread of espresso culture around the world.
Style icon
The details become increasingly minute, the style clean and “sensitive”: next-generation machines interact, with each other and with people, with energy savings, consumption monitoring and recyclable materials. Often just with the touch of a screen.
“The secret to success is the ability to bring together the details"
Walt Disney
MUMAC - Esploso La Cimbali M100 (2012) by La CimbaliMuseimpresa
Espresso in Italy
Just as there are an infinite number of 'made-to-measure' souls made in Italy, with attention to detail, perfect in style, creative in research, designed especially for the customer, so each machine is a whole that, without even one of its components, loses value
"Style is elegance not extravagance.
The important thing is not to be noticed, but to be remembered."
Giorgio Armani
Made in Italy is a blend of tradition and innovation, where the best of the past is revived and combined with the best of the present to create the future. The epitome of typical Italian elegance and artisanship, the new professional coffee machines maximise the sensory experience and offer infinite ways of personalising the beverages and the images viewed during their preparation, guaranteeing a unique experience.
The machines once again occupy pride of place on bar counters and new coffee specialists dialogue in detail with increasingly informed customers. Quality coffee espresso becomes a new cult at home just as at the bar.
Technology, innovation and design: the hands and minds of a long and complex production chain made up of raw materials, patents, creativity and enterprise. A suspension of matter and judgment, container of little and big stories: MUMAC is like a galaxy that continues to expand, bright and spectacular in its revelation of the universe of sublime espresso coffee.
MUMAC
This exhibit was created by MUMAC MUSEUM of Cimbali Group.
Thanks to
Cimbali family and team, first of all
Exhibition Curator
Team MUMAC: Barbara Foglia - MUMAC Director, Anna Cento - MUMAC Curator
Storyteller, writer and content curator
Margherita Pogliani
Photography by
MUMAC Archive
Irene Fanizza
Massimo Fazio
Emanuele Galimberti
Angelo Golizia
Matteo Valle
Technical contents supervisor
Enrico Maltoni
Translation partner
Landoor