Sacred dishes of the indigenous peoples of Chihuahua
At the beginning and end of the agricultural cycle, the indigenous peoples of Chihuahua hold ritual celebrations with sacred dishes to ask or give thanks for the good harvest.
By Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
Chihuahua Regional Unit—General Directorate of Popular, Indigenous and Urban Cultures
The indigenous peoples of the state of Chihuahua celebrate the agricultural cycle with traditions dating back millennia. For the Ralámuli (Chihuahuans), O'oba (Pima river people), Guarijo (Guarijíos people) and O'dami (Tepehuanos people), the foods that make up part of these celebrations are very important.
Semillas de calabazo y ajo junto a carne de cerdo by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
To make these dishes, the ritual slaughter of an animal is first carried out. This is usually a cow, deer, or young goat. All the parts suitable for eating (including the bowels) are used.
Tambo de metal donde se cocina el Tonhari by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
The food is cooked in a large tambo or pot with water. During the preparation of the food, salt is omitted, as it is believed that it does not please God.
Knowing this, let's look at some of the most representative sacred foods of the indigenous peoples of Chihuahua.
La comunidad se reúne para probar los platillos by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
Tonari
Among the Ralámuli and O'dami,one of the most important sacred foods is tonari(ralámuli) ortonarhi(O'dami). This dish is made from beef, although Ralámuli sometimes accompany it with meat from other animals such as chicken or rabbit.
Among the O'dami, it is said that bulls and cows can speak with God to intervene for human beings. Hence the use of beef. On the other hand, the Rarámuri consume this dish during the Yúmare festival, a ritual related to good crops, especially corn.
Maíz molido junto a salsas típicas by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
Chivabaqui
On the other hand, one of the main sacred dishes for the Guarijo peoples is the chivabaqui that is served during the Tugurada ceremony. This ritual is a way to "pay" God for the sins committed and is performed within the framework of the celebration of the Pizca Cava.
Frijol tostado by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
Chimole
Finally, for the O'oba people the sacred dish is chimole: a broth of beef with beans that is accompanied with corn tortillas made of dough.
Platillo Tonhari junto a tamales by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
Like the Ralámuli, this dish is consumed during yúmare in order to give thanks for and to ask for good harvests for the following year. In the case of Yúmare O'oba, a cow is sacrificed and with its blood the soil is watered as an offering.
Cortando las hojas del quelite (2015) by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
The traditions and the millennial worldview of the indigenous peoples are kept alive through the communal festivals. The dish thus becomes a means of contact between the community and the nature that it always provides and to which it is thankful for its fruits.
Niños de la comunidad comiendo los platillos tradicionales by Claudio Noé Rivas ProañoMinistry of Culture of the Government of Mexico
It is in these festivals and, above all, in the food that accompanies them, that we see the sacred link between the community, the ingredients and nature.
Chihuahua Regional Unit—General Directorate of Popular, Indigenous and Urban Cultures.
Photography:
Claudio Noé Rivas Proaño
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