Spanish Markets: Look, Smell, Touch, and Buy

Many of them were real works of art, inspired by great European buildings such as the Les Halles market in Paris. Its architecture of large windows and metal structures can be seen replicated in Madrid's San Miguel market for example, or in the market in Palencia. Later, with the development of concrete, different styles appeared and each individual market across Spain took on its own unique character.

They have a characteristic smell and a sound so unique that, even with your eyes closed, you would know exactly where you were. The stallholders display their produce to show off its quality, and you can tell which are the best varieties, the freshest fish, and the finest meats just by looking at them.

The vibrant fruit adds a splash of color to the frenetic activity of the market stalls, where you can also find cheeses, good quality charcuterie, eggs, loose vegetables, bread, and sweet treats. These are all the ingredients of a traditional market. Nowadays, they also have areas for international produce, organic stalls, and stalls selling just one type of product, keeping up with new demands.

One of the biggest advantages of buying from markets is that the customer can ask questions about the produce and the stallholder can share their expertise. This close contact is something that is lost in large stores, and it helps to promote knowledge about fresh, local produce, which is the basis for local sustainability.

A Neo-Moorish style can also be seen in buildings such as the market in Salamanca, with its horseshoe arch and ceramic tiles. Another example is Malaga's Ataranzas market, which still has a Nazari door dating from the 14th century.

However, it was so-called "cast-iron architecture" that left the greatest mark on the construction of Spanish markets. Influenced by fashions brought from Europe—and Paris in particular—these kinds of buildings are tall with large, metallic support structures that are light and transparent. Madrid's Mercado San Miguel, Zaragoza's Mercado Central, Valladolid's Mercado Del Val, and the market in Palencia, are all examples of this.

The pace of decline increased and, unfortunately, many were closed. However, in recent years, there has been a resurgence of Spanish markets as culinary, cultural and touristic centers. Local councils are making significant efforts to renovate and reinvent various commercial spaces that had fallen into disuse, and residents are discovering a different kind of interaction.

The regeneration of markets has been a major initiative, and it would not have been possible without the participation of people who put forward creative solutions that go well beyond the basic market stall.

Cookery workshops, courses for children, and pop-up events combining other activities such as music, dancing, and fashion are just a taste of what is on offer in Spanish markets, which have now become places of leisure.

However, the biggest change in the revival of markets has come out of the kitchen. Chefs have opened up their doors and visitors can now not only buy food there, but eat it too.

In fact, they often use produce sold at the various stalls, generating a wonderful circle of sustainability.

Traditional stallholders now stand side by side with small-scale producers and artisans, all sharing the space with culinary offerings in the form of casual, quick-and-easy street food.

The Vallehermoso and San Antón markets in Madrid are examples of this interesting model.

Well-known chefs have also opted to make use of these spaces, including Ricard Camarena and his Central Bar in Valencia's Mercado Central, and Rodrigo de la Calle in Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel.

Other chefs are involved in the markets' day-to-day activity, promoting collaborations between producers, chefs, and customers, such as the cooking demonstrations by Creando Cocina in San Sebastian's La Bretxa market.

Through this revival, markets have been transformed into culinary and cultural melting pots without losing their essence, ensuring that they live on and carry a traditional model forward for future generations.