The suit of lights, as we know it today, derives from the Goyaesque suits (worn at the time of Francisco de Goya), which were first used in the second half of the 18th century. Its evolution is linked to that of the lidia, the sequence of a bullfight, and the constitution of professional cuadrillas, which are teams of bullfighters on foot.
Initially made of buckskin to protect the body, it became increasingly elegant and dazzling at the end of the 18th century with the introduction of embroidery and trimmings.
Salut à la présidence (1850/1950) by Francesa PorchetsMusée des Cultures Taurines
In 1732, the regulations of the Maestranza of Seville, the city's bullring, stipulated that the bullfighter's costume had to be garnet-colored with white braiding. It was only from 1793 that maestros could use other colors and silver braiding, and the picadores, or lancers, obliged.
Around 1830, Francisco Montes Paquiro amended the costume by adding embroidery, braids and trimmings and in 1835 introduced a hat known as a montera to replace the sombrero de queso, which was fashionable at the time.
Evolution of the suit of lights
Machos (ornamental tassels) are placed under the epaulets and at the bottom of the taleguilla (breeches), as well as gold sequins. The trimmings became increasingly important. The suit silhouette was revised: the chaquetilla (jacket) was shortened and the shoulders were widened. The final shape of the suit is almost complete.
Sans titre (20ème siècle) by Fournier - Vitoria and Carlos Saenz de TejadaMusée des Cultures Taurines
Collection de las principales suertes de una corrida de toros (18ème siècle) by Luis Fernandez NoseretMusée des Cultures Taurines
The paseíllo cape, an inseparable part of the costume of lights
Initially very wide and worn on the left shoulder, the cape finished almost halfway up the bullfighter's leg. Its embroidered patterns were very simple, with sewn parallel vertical stripes topped by a ruff.
The paseíllo cape was gradually enriched with embroidery and decorated with floral or religious motifs. It is still worn on the left shoulder, covering the left arm and now stops at the bullfighter's waist.
The costumes of lights and paseíllo capes are made in sastrerías, tailor workshops specialized in the bullfighter's equipment located in Madrid. The most renowned of them is the Sastrería Fermín.
Réalisation : Musée des Cultures Taurines
Chef de projet : Camille Dubois
Conservation : Lisa Laborie-Barrière
Coordination : Isabelle Morfin, Gilles Raoux, Jean-Marie Mercier
Crédits photographiques : © Stéphane Ramillon, © Ville de Nîmes - Musée des Cultures Taurines
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.