Textile Weaving in Arunachal
A look at various processes of loin loom weaving in Arunachal Pradesh, India
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Tools used for Weaving
The process of loin loom weaving is simple, with a minimal use of tools. A small frame is created and stood upright to stretch the warp threads. The gekong-galong is the local name for the loom made for weaving in the Adi community Women are well versed in selecting local wood to make the loom consisting of parts made of different materials.
Arunachal Weaving: Girl weaving on backstrap loom (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The Gekong is a square-shaped long stick chosen from the local eyum and hilika tree. One section is made of bamboo.
Women get the bamboo for the taaping which is a stick wrapped in thread and the gepang/gatak, the waist belt, is made of rope developed from the Marapat plant.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A simple tool like this is used in the spinning process.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Extra weft is wrapped and kept for the need may arise.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Different coloured yarn in the commonly popular colours of red, yellow, black are used for weaving Gale.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A finished Etojo on the loom.
An Etojo is a jacket for men. The width of the cloth is 1 metre.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Spinning The Yarn
Cotton is locally cultivated on jhum land, and silk is
obtained from silkworms. The yarn is spun and then starched to stiffen
it for convenience in weaving. Dyes are made from local plants but today
industrial dyes or pre-dyed yarn is used for speed and convenience. Earlier, raw materials were cotton or woolen yarn but after industrial acrylic wool became available in most village markets, weavers have changed to these synthetic materials. However, for expensive ceremonial garments they still prefer natural materials which are more expensive but more greatly valued as family pieces to be stored away for the next generation.
Srimati Aajuke is a senior women from Aaholi village from the Idu Mishimi tribe.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019)Dastkari Haat Samiti
She is spinning at the wheel, locally known as Nandre.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Srimati Aajuke assists Musu Umbrey in settling the yarn on the spinning wheel.
Loin Loom Weaving
Local folklore claims that the spider taught Arunachalis how to weave and make bridges out of rope and bamboo. Religious beliefs and folklore are both associated with weaving. Both illness and death brings a halt to the weaving process in a home. The blanket is important to wrap a dead body for the funeral, and the Gale is the most common item of dress woven by all women.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The weaver sits before the loom, on the floor with the back strap in place just below her waist, creating the pattern by pushing the shuttle left and right to create the weft .
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Srimati Aajuke belongs to the prominent Idu Mishimi tribe.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
She is weaving an Etojo, to make a traditional jacket for men.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The complication in weaving techniques comes in when the specific motifs and patterns required for identifying the community, status or gender of the wearer is to be expressed.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A family weaving a traditional Gale in their home in Mongku which is home to the Adi tribe.
The loom is inside the house as the area gets excessive rainfall during the months of June and July.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Kuami Panggeng weaves Gale which is a traditional wrap around.
Arunachal Weaving: Product (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The width of the Gale is 20 inches. Because of the restricted width of the loom, the weaving of the cloth is done twice.
The two layers are joined to make a single Gale.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A family from Mongku village, home to the Adi tribe.
Family life carries on with multiple activities going on at the same time.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A women weaver showing her Minyong fabric which is made by the Adi tribe.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Minyong is a traditional cloth used by the community. It has broken stripe pattern and a geometric flower-like motif woven in extra weft.
The weave is close and continuous.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Minyong is a traditional cloth used by the community.
Stripes form a part of the design along with the signature motifs.
Weaving as a Community
For communities in Arunachal Pradesh, community identity is displayed through clothes, jewellery, artefacts and lifestyles. In a state with many communities it is important to define themselves distinctly through such handmade objects. While weaving processes are time-consuming, the entire activity is part of their life of self-sufficiency, living with natural materials, sustaining cultural practices, and a test of a woman’s skill at weaving.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Opek Ering from Balek Roing village is preoccupied with the pre-weaving process. She is preparing the warp for the loom.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Opek Ering from Balek Roing village getting a bit of help in the pre-weaving process.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
She is preparing the warp for the loom with the help of her daughter, Aido Ering.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Aido Ering is a younger daughter of Opek Ering. She goes to school till 12 noon. On her return, she helps her mother to weave.
She works here on the warping process with her mother and thus learns weaving from a young age.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Momang Dai is a woman weaver from Balek Roing village. Here, she weaves a traditional blanket.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Momang Dai weaves in the comfort of her own home where she can attend to multiple chores.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The white blanket being woven here is locally known as Gadu.
Arunachal Weaving: Process (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The white blanket known as Gadu has a fine texture, multiple woven patterns and a pleasing cream colour.
Arunachal Weaving: Detail of Mon Pa Clothing (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Arunachal Weaving here:
- Environment
- Mon pa weaves
Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Subinoy Das, Jaya Jaitly
Artisans: Srimati Aajuke, Musu Umbrey, Kuami Panggeng, Opek Ering
Ground Facilitation: Ankit Kumar
Documentary Video: Subinoy Das
Curation: Ruchira Verma
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