The Moss Landscape in the Forest of Wisdom

Moss for both eternity and silence

Moss is a feature of landscapes that is distinctly Japanese. The peculiarly humid environment of Japan allows velvety moss to cover the ground like a luxurious blanket. It has been valued since ancient times as a symbol of eternity, partly because of its very slow growth rate. Moss even features in the national anthem of Japan, based on the "Kokin Wakashū", and first published in the early 10th century. The feel of beautiful silence with that moss brings with it adds to this connection to the notion of eternity.

The secret lies in the conifers

“Our ancestors did not set out to create a beautiful moss garden”, says Arikawa, a resident of the village and the director of the Forest of Wisdom association. "The natural environment, such as the climate and the terrain of this area, was suitable for moss so it grew naturally. As the canopies of the surrounding cedars expanded, the received only moderate sunlight, perfect conditions for moss growth. The moss will die if it is covered with fallen leaves, but in those days, there were residents who used the fallen leaves as kindling. Electricity and gas came late, so the fallen leaves were still being used like this right up until the 1970s. So, this mixed scenery of moss, cedar and old folk houses was born here in a very organic way. "

“We dearly wanted to pass on this moss garden – where our ancestors used to live together – to the next generation. For that reason, after founding a council made up of local residents, we invited Teruo Kurosaki – an entrepreneur – as an advisor, and launched the Forest of Wisdom project in 2012. The key assets are the old folk houses, the cedars, and the moss gardens. We have improved the project by combining activities that we used to do individually before that point.”

Time to visit Moss Garden

The activities of the Forest of Wisdom project are divided roughly into two. The first is the operation of the Koke no Sato moss garden – private land that is open to the public. Visitors can appreciate the vivid green moss garden in the Satoyama landscape, whilst receiving explanations about nature and culture from local guides.

If you follow the route, you will find yourself in a moist, shady garden, with an abrupt and obvious quietness. “Properly maintained moss is thick and fluffy”, says Arikawa. “When it’s thick, it’s so easy to maintain – you just need to clean up the fallen leaves with a bamboo broom. We don’t really have to do anything particularly special to maintain it, because our ancestors have given us a garden that is already fully formed”.

Wisdom House, a place for exchange 

The other core feature of the Forest of Wisdom project is Wisdom house. This 100-year-old folk house is described as a place to exchange ideas and knowledge. “This is such a small town, and we don’t really want to make it into a tourist destination. I hope it will become a place where new wisdom can be exchanged, and the people who gather to our moss village can interact with each other”.

You can enjoy the classic jazz numbers in a historic folk house, and on the way back, take a walk in the illuminated moss garden. Even Tokyo, a city which sometimes seems to have it all, cannot offer such an intimate evening experience.

Exchanging technical knowledge at the Moss Seminar

An equally popular, but more discreet, event takes place at Wisdom House. A moss expert comes to speak to an audience of 30, in an event which is invariably over-subscribed. Moss might seem like an odd field for amateur study, but the more you learn about it, the more obvious its charms become. For example, Umasugi Goke, or Polytrichum commune – a moss which Arikawa describes as the "Yokozuna [highest-ranked wrestler in Sumo] in the world of moss". It is one of the most common varieties in the Japanese gardens of Kyoto; its prickly shape looks like a green star scattered on the ground.

The Ooshippo Goke moss, Dicranum nipponense, with a curled tip, is a popular moss that has a fluffy texture and a vividly dense appearance. It has a smooth, almost luxurious feel to it.

Shinobu Goke moss, a type of Thuidium, has a rough texture that feels rather like hemp. It is a distinct moss that grows like a net, entangling with itself. This moss grows prolifically on the railings of the bridge of the local Hiyou Shrine, and the Arikawa boys used to lie down on this moss during their summer vacation, enjoying its peculiar texture.