Flavors of a Lifetime

Discover the different initiatives keeping the legacy of Spanish cuisine alive.

By Real Academia de Gastronomía

María Llamas G. de Amezúa

Cooking "fabes con Almejas"Real Academia de Gastronomía

The boom in Spanish cuisine over the past few years has led to a revisiting of Spain's culinary heritage—a heritage of delicious dishes that became everyday staples, and that were perhaps not given the recognition they deserved.

Pebreta tallaeta (a fish and vegetable stew) and noodles with frigate mackerel (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía

As this awareness of Spain's culinary legacy has grown, so has the desire to preserve the recipes handed down by mothers and grandmothers, to give careful thought to the quality of the ingredients used to make them, and to cherish the legacy they represent.

La Cuina a Sils (2020-02-14)Real Academia de Gastronomía

This project is a tribute to everyday cooking—to the recipes passed on from generation to generation, in families, through professional associations, or by cooking for friends. These recipes are as traditional as they come, and are now considered classics of Spanish cuisine.

Drinking a toast at the Basque Gastronomic Brotherhood (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía

The project also highlights a fundamental aspect of Spanish gastronomy: cooking together and cooking as a celebration. Cooking as a community, going out to eat with friends, celebrating around a table … the experience of getting together and escaping the hustle and bustle of daily life for a while.

"Marmitako"Real Academia de Gastronomía

Cooking on the move

Some of Spain's best known regional and national dishes were the invention of professional associations. Fishermen popularized the Basque tuna stew known as marmitako, and the Valencian seafood noodle dish, fideuá, which is much like paella. These two recipes are among Spain's best-loved regional dishes.

MigasOriginal Source: Miriam García

Shepherds created some of Spain's humblest and simplest dishes, such as migas (literally, breadcrumbs), a dish made from stale bread that varies from region to region.

Bollo del Pastor (2020)Original Source: Sandra Jiménez Osorio

Today, the dishes cooked by shepherds while they were away from home are made on weekends in villages and at festivals, in homage to the memory of that simple life lived in harmony with the land—now superseded by today's urban lifestyle.

La Cuina a Sils (2020-02-14)Real Academia de Gastronomía

Women on the frontline

In recent years, different groups of women from all over Spain have got together to reclaim and preserve the recipes they learned from their mothers and grandmothers: knowledge that was in danger of being lost.

La Cuina a Sils (2020-02-14)Real Academia de Gastronomía

In Catalonia, a group known as La Cuina a Sils was formed to bring grandmothers together to cook and chat. Their books are not only an anthology of recipes, but a documentary archive of their experiences and the enormous changes they have witnessed over their lifetimes.

Remedios ReyReal Academia de Gastronomía

In Andalusia, preserving local cuisine has become a personal hobby for archivist Remedios Rey. It has taken her all over the province of Huelva in search of the best regional dishes. In Cádiz, another group of women founded the El Almirez club, with the aim of pooling recipes and culinary knowledge.

The Guisanderas' Club (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía


The Club de Guisanderas, in Asturias, is an association of professional female chefs who are committed to preserving the region's gastronomic traditions in their own restaurant kitchens.

Catalina Ubis' recipe book (19th - 20th century) by Catalina Ubis and four further generations of womenOriginal Source: James Sturcke x MAMA Festival

Los Recetarios (Cookbooks) is a collaborative, traveling digital project that aims to showcase everyday home cooking, by collecting handwritten and typed recipe books. The initiative shows that behind every recipe lies a living, breathing story.

The Poor Clares of Belorado (2020-03-04)Real Academia de Gastronomía

Gastronomy for body and soul

Religious communities were the first to document their culinary knowledge, publishing books on practical cookery. They were also among the first to travel to the New World, bringing back seed for food plants that they incorporated into their diets.

The New Art of Cooking (1795) by Juan de AltamirasReal Academia de Gastronomía


Several recipes that were later attributed to French haute cuisine, such as consommé or pheasant à la mode d'Alcantra, originated in these Spanish communities.

The Poor Clares of Belorado (2020-03-04)Real Academia de Gastronomía

Today, some religious communities have become centers of excellence in their gastronomic specialties. Some have expanded their traditional range of cakes and pastries to include new products, as is the case with the Poor Clare nuns in Belorado (Burgos, in Castile and León), who have moved into chocolate making.

Cooking at the Basque Gastronomic Brotherhood (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía

Cooking and enjoying good food around the table

The Basque Country's gastronomic societies have played an extremely important role in the region's social fabric. These private spaces known as txokos (meaning corner or nook) are places for groups of friends to meet, and each has a fully equipped kitchen, dining room, and wine cellar.

Food at the Basque Gastronomic Brotherhood (2020)Real Academia de Gastronomía

They emerged in San Sebastián in the mid-19th century, when a few txikiteros (as wine drinkers are known in Basque) got together to buy premises that they could use to meet up, eat, drink, and enjoy themselves at a reasonable price, and with no set opening times. Today, they exist all over the Basque Country, as well as in other parts of Spain.

"Bacalao al pil-pil"Real Academia de Gastronomía

Besides providing a meeting place, these societies act as social levelers. No one is in charge of a txoco: all of its members enjoy the same status. Whether you own a factory or work on the production line, you'll pay the same for your bacalao al pil pil (cod in a chili and garlic sauce).

The Montecarmelo GardenReal Academia de Gastronomía

A return to the flavors of yesteryear

Interest in urban landscapes and awareness of food hegemony have grown in recent years, leading to a resurgence in garden plots and community gardens. These urban vegetable gardens can be found in public parks and schools, and even on the roof terraces of hotels and office blocks. 

Still life with garden produceReal Academia de Gastronomía

At the same time, a new way of buying and selling fresh produce has developed. Thanks to new technologies, small producers have found a new distribution channel direct to consumers, who now demand seasonal, local produce.

Pedrosillano chickpea farm in DaganzoOriginal Source: Garbanzos de Daganzo

Public institutions are also keen to help revive traditional crops that are adapted to the region's climate and soil. The Madrid Institute for Rural, Agrarian, and Food Research and Development (IMIDRA) grows traditional varieties of tomatoes, melons, beans, and garlic.

Want to find out more?

Click on the link to read more about all these initiatives.

Credits: Story

Text: María Llamas. This presentation has sourced information from Vicky Hayward's 2006 essay for Spain Gourmetour: "First Person Plural: Collective Spanish Cookbooks". My thanks go to her.
Image: David de Luis

This exhibition is part of the Spanish gastronomy project, España: Cocina Abierta (Spain: Open Kitchen), coordinated by Google Arts & Culture and Spain's Royal Academy of Gastronomy (Real Academia de la Gastronomía). The section on culinary legacy was developed by María Llamas G. de Amezúa, director of the Alambique cookery store and school.

Acknowledgements

Lourdes Plana Bellido, president of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy; Elena Rodríguez, director of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy and Carmen Simón, academic of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy.

www.realacademiadegastronomia.com
www.alambique.com

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

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