Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Zari zardozi is a style of embroidery that came to India from central Asia in the 12th century. An ornate and sumptuous craft, it was patronised by the affluent and courtly classes. In current times, it has seen a popular revival, and is a favourite at weddings and on fashion ramps. Done on velvets, brocades and silks, zari zardozi uses silver and golden thread, beads and spangles.
In earlier times, actual gold and silver wires were used, along with seed pearls and gems stones. These have now been replaced by lower priced imitations, although the glitter and opulence of the style is retained. Traditionally, men worked in workshops producing for the market, while women occasionally worked at home on items for their own trousseaus or collections. This is now changing, with women too doing embroidery from home-based workshops.
Framing the fabric
The fabric to be embroidered is fixed on a wooden frame called 'adda', modelled on the wooden bed frame that still used in rural India.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The adda can be adjusted to the size of the fabric and allows the cloth to be stretched taut, to enable embroidery.
Preparing the stencil
The embroidery design is first traced out on a sheet of gateway paper. A needle is used to make fine holes along the tracing to make a stencil of the design.
Zari Zardozi: Process (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Reshma, a master of zari work, prepares her stencil. Here, she is making fine holes in paper, through which the trace markings will be made on the fabric.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Powder mixed in kerosene oil is rubbed along the stencil on the fabric, passing through the holes and thus transferring the design to be embroidered.
Tools of the trade
While a simple needle can also be used, zari zardozi embroidery generally uses a hook-tipped awl, locally called 'ari', which makes for greater efficiency. It enables the artisan to pass the embroidery thread both above and below the fabric. Metallic threads of different specifications are used along with a variety of sequins, beads and spangles.
Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
There are regional variations between zardozi clusters in the commonly used stitches and types of metallic threads.
In general, the work is marked by its use of metallic thread, along with sequins and beads. The hooked awl is also commonly used for embroidery.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The awl enables the artisan to work on both sides of the fabric. While one hand of the artisan holds and guides the thread below the surface, the awl wielding hand above the fabric draws the thread through.
Zari Zardozi: Process (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The artisan here is creating zari embroidery on fine, almost transparent, georgette fabric. In the right light, such embroideries look like jewels hanging in mid air.
Zari Zardozi: Process (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Gold and silver bullion threads are commonly used in zari embroidery, used for filling areas or for giving a bold outline. Here, the karigar is using them to line the sherwani collars.
Zari Zardozi: Process (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A zari karigar works with both hands. Guiding the thread below and creating the design above.
Workspace of an Old Delhi zardozi artist
Artisans sit on the floor around the adda, which is at table height. This enables easy movement of their hands above and below the fabric.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Five to seven craftspeople can be accommodated around the adda. Each works on a different portion of the composition.
Much of the embroidery done in Old Delhi is at small workshops which house a few addas.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Small pieces are taken up by individual artisans. Traditionally, zardozi work was done commercially by male artisans, women occasionally made garments for their own collections.
In recent times, women have joined the commercial workforce, doing embroidery mostly from their homes.
Here, Farahnaaz embroiders collar pieces at an adda, in her house.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Her work place is an extension of the compact home where she lives with her mother and two sisters. At the other end of the room where she embroiders is her cooking space, arguably the tiniest kitchen in the world!
Farahnaaz learnt to embroider from her mother. Now, she and her sisters earn their living by it.
Embellishing the zari embroidery
Spangles are affixed on the fabric using an adhesive.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Two artisans fix crystals for the embroidery. While the hand on the right puts spots of adhesive on the fabric using a plastic cone, the hand seen on the left uses a wooden stick to fix the crystals in place.
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A full ensemble with heavy embroidery can take a team of seven to eight artisans a few weeks to complete.
Here, zari artisans can be seen working together on a bridal lehenga-choli (long skirt and blouse).
Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Zari Zardozi of Old Delhi here:
- In search of Zari Zardozi in the Streets of Old Delhi
- Zari Zardozi Embroidery of Old Delhi
Text: Rashmi Sacher, Charu Verma
Photography: Sunil Kumar, Charu Verma
Artisans: Reshma Rehman Ansari, Shaheen, Saira, Chand, Naseen Bano, Gulafsha, Tabasum, Farahnaaz, Mohammed Arif, Mohammed Asif
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma, Rashmi Sacher
Documentary Video: Sunil Kumar, Charu Verma
Curation: Ruchira Verma
