Cuisine of Basque Country

Produce and the Avant-Garde

By Real Academia de Gastronomía

Real Academia de Gastronomía Vista previa

Pintxos barReal Academia de Gastronomía

The Basque Country is a pleasure for the senses. Its regional cuisine, its avant-garde, its sea and garden produce, its beef, and its "pintxo" tapas have made it one of the world's most interesting tourist and gastronomic destinations.

Cuttlefish in its inkReal Academia de Gastronomía

A Pantry Stocked from the Sea and Mountains

The Basque Country is a Spanish region on the border with France, in the Bay of Biscay, with an important seafaring tradition. Its seas produce hake, bonito, sea bream, cod, baby squid, and anchovies—all species that have been used to create popular dishes.

Cantabrian baby eelsOriginal Source: Fotos realizadas para el libro de Montagud Editores: “Casa Gerardo. Cocina Contemporánea Asturiana.”

"Txangurro" (spider crab) and baby eels, which are popular with more refined palates, are also typical of its cuisine.

"Txuleta" Steak at a Cider HouseReal Academia de Gastronomía

Its beef, which bears the European Protected Geographical Indication mark, is another great ingredient in Basque cuisine, with delicious cuts such as the "txuleta" or "villagodio" rib steak, which comes from the primal rib.

Idiazábal cheese and Gernika peppers are other local products with certified quality.

Red French BeanReal Academia de Gastronomía

Other staple ingredients among the Basque Country's revered supply include "guindilla" chili peppers from Ibarra, Tolosa black beans, and "tear peas" produced from its vegetable gardens.

The proximity of the mountains and sea supplies the region with a vast wealth of raw materials. This is something that Basque society takes great pride in, providing a vital impetus for people's appreciation of the area's great cuisine.

Hake with garlic and rosemary vinaigretteReal Academia de Gastronomía

Basque Cuisine: A Matter of Pride

Dishes that have emerged from the seafaring tradition are among the Basque recipes with the deepest roots. Its green and black salsas, and "salsa bizkaina" (made from sun-dried peppers) are just some of the accompaniments to fish that this area has produced. "Kokotxas," or the lower part of the chin of a hake or cod, are also a cut that Basque cuisine has taken full advantage of.

"Marmitako"Real Academia de Gastronomía

Baby squid in its ink, "marmitako" stew with bonito, and San Sebastian "txangurro" or spider crab, not to mention grilled fish and meat—which are almost a ritual in the Basque Country—are some more of the region's most typical dishes.

"Porrusalda"Real Academia de Gastronomía

Then there are stews, each with their own name, such as "piperrada" (a pepper garnish), "porrusalda" (a leek and potato broth), or "zurrukutuna" (a garlic and cod soup).

Gâteau BasqueOriginal Source: www.tobegourmet.com

The region's best desserts include "pastel vasco" (a cream or jam pastry tart); "goxua" (a custard, cream, and sponge cake dessert); "mamia" (curd made from sheep's milk); "pantxineta" (custard and almond puff pastry); and "canutillos" (rolled pastry filled with custard).

All these desserts demonstrate the importance of livestock and milk in the most popular Basque recipes.

GildaReal Academia de Gastronomía

"Pintxos": From "Gildas" to Miniature Haute Cuisine

If there's one typical dish that Basque cuisine is known for internationally, it's the "pintxo." "Pintxos" are small, creative snacks that combine 2 of the region's greatest values: good food, and the art of "txikiteo"—going from bar to bar drinking small glasses of wine, called "txikitos."

Pintxos barReal Academia de Gastronomía

The counters in bars in the historic centers of Basque cities are laden with miniature offerings that visitors go crazy for.

But the ones recommended on their blackboards should not be ignored: the choice widens, with a selection of bite-size hot meals, which are almost more interesting than those on display.

Basque SkewerReal Academia de Gastronomía

"Gildas"—little skewers with an olive, a "guindilla" chili pepper, and an anchovy—are the Basque Country's quintessential "pintxo." However, today you can find a huge variety of these snacks, making this miniature cuisine that is typical of local bars one of the area's most important foods.

San Sebastian 2016Real Academia de Gastronomía

Avant-Garde Cuisine

April 2016 marked 40 years of the so-called New Basque Cuisine, which was the first avant-garde cuisine in Spain.

Group of Basque chefsReal Academia de Gastronomía

Led by the chefs Luis Irizar, Juan Mari Arzak, and Pedro Subijana, the cornerstones of this mini-revolution were recovering forgotten recipes, reworking the ingredients of popular ones, and being innovative.

"We learned the French technique, but we injected excitement and passion into it," says Juan Mari.

Pioneers of the New Basque CuisineReal Academia de Gastronomía

The groundwork laid in the 1970s was vital for what was to come later. Refining dishes, questioning the foundations of the cuisine itself, and promoting authentic and seasonal produce are just some of the things that this group of chefs from Gipuzkoa can be thanked for.

The result is that, today, the Basque Country is one of the most highly acclaimed gastronomic destinations in the world. Without these chefs, there would probably have been no El Bulli—the restaurant run by Ferran Adrià, who led the second great gastronomic revolution in Spain more than 15 years later.

Truffle with fermented mushrooms and collard greens with "Alma de Jerez" olive oilOriginal Source: Restaurante Martín Berasategui

The Basque Country's Signature Cuisine

The New Basque Cuisine of the 1970s; refined French influences (the Basque Country is a border region, after all); the region's great produce; and the deep roots that food has in its society, which are also closely related to the Basque way of interacting—these are some of the factors that have led to signature cuisine playing an important role in the region for a long time now.

Grilled EelsOriginal Source: Restaurante Asador Etxebarri

However, the roots of its more traditional cuisine have not been lost in favor of creativity. "Marmitako" (a fish stew), "kokotxas," (the lower part of a fish's chin) and "txipirones" (baby squid) in their ink are all dishes that may never disappear from Arzak's menu, despite it being one of the top restaurants in the world.

It is a similar story at chef Víctor Arguinzoniz's restaurant, Etxebarri, which has managed to earn a place on the most coveted lists with its broiler concept.

Spider crab appetizerReal Academia de Gastronomía

"Kokotxas" also still feature on the haute-cuisine menus of chefs such as Andoni Luis Aduriz and Martín Berasategui, while turbot with its "kokotxa" is a legendary dish by the chef Pedro Subijana.

The younger generation of chefs, such as Eneko Atxa, also keep tradition in their sights in order to continue innovating. Some of his dishes are proof of this, including his spider crab bonbon, and baby squid grilled over vine shoots.

Credits: Story

Text: Silvia Artaza, in collaboration with María del Mar Churruca (member of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy and president of the Basque Academy of Gastronomy).

Image: San Sebastián Tourism / Foods & Wines from Spain / Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade.

Acknowledgements: Rafael Ansón, president of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy; Elena Rodríguez, director of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy; María García and Caroline Verhille, contributors to the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy.

Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy

This exhibition is part of the Spanish Gastronomy project jointly coordinated by Google Arts & Culture and the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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