Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Carpets from Mirzapur-Bhadohi
Mirzapur-Bhadohi in Uttar Pradesh is a major hub for the weaving of floor coverings of various types. It was once, and continues to be, a major centre for dhurries and kilims, pile and knotted carpets. It is believed that the skill set of the artisans here can be traced back to the Mughal era.
Product Range by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti
With time and exposure, the versatile weavers in the region now make products that find their way to markets all over the country and abroad, accommodating ideas and demands from clienteles everywhere.
Product Range (2017) by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti
A wide range of designs and techniques can now be found in the area.
Where it starts: Envisioning the design
Early designs had a strong Persian influence. Over time and with exposure, the weavers now make products for markets in India and abroad. The weaving process starts with the master craftsman hand painting the design, and indicating the colours and layout of the proposed rug.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dyed and natural hanks of wool stacked for weaving.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
From design conceptualisation to translation, and from yarn to a finished product, the process of creating a kilim product can take from a few days to several months, depending on the complexity of the product.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The design is an original hand-painted work that indicates the colours and layout of the proposed rug.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The design is specified on the sheet with indicated yarn colours.
Process of weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The workshop has various equipment to aid the weaving process, like this winding beam. It is used to ready the yarn before the weaving process can begin.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The workshop has various counts of wool.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Wool hanks are detangled before they are put on the spindles.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Spools of warp are being readied.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The warp yarn is winded on the winding beam.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Warp is passed through the reed.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Details of how the warp is passed through the reed.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The ready warp is tied on the warp beam.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Broken wool is joined by hand.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
In a vertical loom, warped beam can be seen on the top of a loom.
Weaving process
Flat weave floor coverings comprise of dhurries and rugs which use a variety of techniques for the interaction of warp and weft. The distinguishing feature is that they do not involve a raised pile, as in carpets. Instead, they use interlacing, interlocking, wrapping and a combination of techniques, that may also involve more than a single warp and/or weft.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Inventory of wool inside the weavers' work shed.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A weaver discusses the design with the master weaver.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A wide range of designs and techniques are now woven in this area.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This picture shows how the design looks on paper and on the final Kilim product.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A weaver is at work on the loom.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Another weaver detangles the wool in the meantime.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Inserting the wool yarns during the weaving.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Flat weave floor coverings comprise of dhurries and rugs using a variety of techniques for the interaction of warp and weft.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Weaving takes place in sheds or in the extremely humble homes of the weavers.
Process of weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Weavers in their workshed area.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Weaving a kilim behind the warp.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A weaver busy at work on the loom.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The backside of the kilim on the loom.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Details of the weaving a kilim.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Here, two weavers weave the same kilim.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Process of weaving the kilim.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The paper design and the final kilim, as seen on the loom.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Ends of the kilims are hand-knotted before they are sold.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Hand-knotting the loose ends.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Cutting away the extra wool, post the weaving process.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Tools used to cut the extra bits of wool.
Kilim and Carpets : Tools used in weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Various tools are used for the finishing of the carpets.
Kilim and Carpets : Tools used in weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Various tools are used for the finishing of the carpets.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Sometimes unfinished dhurries are used to make bags or seat covers.
Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Brushing and cleaning the kilim before burning it.
Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The burning process ensures the removal of the extras.
Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A flame is run over the top layer of the Kilim, to give it a finished appearance.
Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The flame burns away the extra wool on the kilim.
Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
After the burning process, it is then cleaned to prepare the kilim for a wash.
Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dhurrie is taken away to be washed before the loose edges are tied and finished by hand.
Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The carpet is washed with water.
Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The kilim is cleaned in the process and all the excess water is removed.
Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The excess water is squeezed out manually after the wash.
Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The carpet is washed again with a mild acid solution.
Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Washing in progress.
Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The feet do all the hard scrubbing while washing the floor covering.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Kilims drying after washing.
The floor coverings are dried and then rolled to be taken for the final processing. The finishing unit is not far away from the dyeing unit.
Kilim weaving process : Drying the carpets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Carpets are spread out for drying after the wash.
Kilim weaving process : Drying the carpets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dhurrie that was seen on the loom is now drying in the sun after being washed.
Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Since dhurrie weavers, like Abdul Kalam, are enthusiastic entrepreneurs, a good stock is kept ready to be taken to the bazaar or an exhibition at short notice.
Mirzapur's Carpet weaving (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti
See more of how Kilim weaving in Mirzapur is done.
Product Range (2017) by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Kilim Floor Coverings here:
- The Community
- Dyeing Process
Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Ankit Kumar
Artisans: Abdul Kalam and fellow weavers
Ground Facilitator: Ankit Kumar
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal
Cinematic Video:
- Director: Jyoti Neggi
- Production: Studio Gola
