Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dyeing centres
Master craftsman Abdul Kalam, like most local weavers, gets his dyeing done by an independent dyeing unit. The community dyeing centre is in Mirzapur town. It is a 30-year-old establishment where the entire dyeing process takes place. Wool, silk and jute are dyed collectively in the same unit under different conditions.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A large stock of jute yarn, dyed and natural, lies in a shed in Mirzapur.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dyeing area is fairly large and spread out to accommodate all the processes involved.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
An empty dye bath before the dyeing process begins.
Dyeing process
The dyeing process for kilim weaving is laborious. Several batches of yarn are dyed in a day. Jute and wool are dipped in dye vats. The yarn is turned on the axis of a wheel to dip the strands evenly. The dyed yarn, which is wet and heavy, needs the strength of four men to be pulled out of the dye bath.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Immersing the dyed jute in the dye bath.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dyeing the jute inside the dye bath.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A dyer dips a batch of wool in the dyeing trough.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A batch of jute yarn is turned on the axis of a wheel to dip the strands evenly.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dyer cuts a portion of the dyed yarn to match its colour elsewhere.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dyer holds the dyed jute in the respective colour.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dyers prepare for the next lot to be dyed.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Several batches of yarn are dyed in a day.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dyed yarn, which is wet and heavy, needs the strength of four men to pull it out of the dye bath.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Logs of wood are used in the traditional furnace to heat the dye mixture in the bath.
Infrastructure at the dyeing unit
A fascinating element of the dyeing unit is an old steamer from the British times. Its remarkably efficient system allows for constant steam to pass through pipes, providing heat to the water in the vessels in which the dyeing takes place. It helps to regulate and accelerate the dyeing process by heating the water in minutes.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
With the increasing demand for kilims, larger batches of yarn need to be dyed.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The steamer helps to regulate and accelerate the dyeing process by heating the water in minutes.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The water gets boiled due to the steam inside the dye bath.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A worker prepares his tools next to the steamer.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Workers have to feed coal inside the steamer.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dyeing unit had both, dyed and un-dyed wool.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This is an Industrial dye bath, which is used to dye a bigger lot of wool or jute.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Wool to be dyed.
Drying the wool
The many stages of durry weaving are labour intensive. The wet and dyed wool is dried in the open areas around the workshop. Mirzapur-Bhadohi in Uttar Pradesh is a major hub for the weaving of floor coverings of various types. It was once a major centre for durries and kilims, pile and knotted carpets, and still continues to be, despite some setbacks nearly two decades ago when the international issue of child labour disrupted the economy.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A man carries a batch of wool that is to be dried.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Wool is dried in the open area around the workshop.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dyed wool is dried in the open area.
Dyeing Process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Different qualities of jute yarn await its use.
The jute is largely accessed from West Bengal where its growth is plentiful.
Mirzapur's Carpet weaving (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Master craftsman Abdul Kalam takes us through the process of weaving the carpets.
Product Range (2017) by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Kilim Floor Coverings here:
- Process
- The Community
Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Ankit Kumar
Artisans: Abdul Kalam and fellow weavers
Ground Facilitator: Ankit Kumar
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal
Cinematic Video:
- Director: Jyoti Neggi
- Production: Studio Gola