Although Limousin is less famous for its castles than Périgord, a multitude of them line its countryside from ridge to ridge. There are several reasons for this abundance, mainly geographic and historical. Let's explore them through the Richard the Lionheart Route, which includes 23 sites from the Charente to the Corrèze, mainly in Haute-Vienne.
A myriad of castles for a myriad of reasons
The proliferation of fiefs and castles began in the 9th century. At that time, the territory was in the possession of the dukes of Aquitaine, Toulouse, Clermont-Ferrand, and Poitiers. Without a clear authority figure, viscounts seized power in smaller territories. Each of them established power by building a castle, most often on top of a rocky outcropping, called a motte.
Château des Cars en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
This region was at the center of the confrontations between the kings of England (who were also the dukes of Aquitaine) and the kings of France during the Hundred Years' War.
The two kingdoms' sovereigns secured military support from local lords by granting them the right to build fortresses. Castles flourished all along the shifting borders. Existing castles were reinforced.
The first castle in Les Cars, a 12th century defensive structure, fell into the hands of the English before being returned to the French crown.
La tour elliptique du château des CarsFondation du patrimoine
The third period during which many castles were built or fortified was the Wars of Religion, which raged in the region.
The Les Cars castle's defensive structures were completely overhauled in the 16th century, as this video shows.
The castle of Châlucet-Ligoure : a strategic location for an impregnable fortress
The fortress of Châlucet was built at the top of a rocky outcropping in the 12th century, at the confluence of the Ligoure and Briance rivers. It was reputed to be impregnable throughout its history. The surrounding forest did not exist at that time, and the keep, today called the Jeannette tower, made it possible to monitor the environment from up to many miles away.
Châlucet's lower bailey was set up as a co-seigniory. It hosted a village of knights: they defended the location in exchange for rent paid by the surrounding villages.
Haut-Castrum du Château de Châlucet-Ligoure en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The upper bailey belonged to the lordly family of Jaunhac, who defended the interests of the abbey of Solignac against the viscount of Limoges.
The latter was finally able to seize control of the fortress by playing on his alliances.
Thus, when the people of Limoges, 6 miles (10 km) away, rebelled against the viscount's authority in 1262, Châlucet became a strategic point to control access to the town and take actions to suppress the rebellion.
To reward him for his loyalty to the viscount, Gérault de Maulmont, a leader of the fight against Limoges' inhabitants, was given Châlucet.
He built a true fortified palace there, which displayed all his power.
Château de Châlucet-Ligoure en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
His descendants gave the castle to Philip IV the Fair, king of France, who never went there, nor did his successor. Although it was well-kept by a castellan, the castle was deteriorating.
Tour Jeannette du Château de Châlucet-Ligoure en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
Neither the king of England nor the king of France could secure power over this territory in the troubled context of the Hundred Years' War, and it was handed over to brigands who ravaged the region.
The most bloodthirsty of them, Pierrot le Béarnais, moved into Châlucet with his troops and terrorized the inhabitants of the surrounding area.
He finally surrendered to the king of France's authority in 1394, in exchange for a huge ransom.
Village fortifié de Châlucet-Ligoure en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The castle gradually fell into ruins, but it still represented a threat to the people of Limoges, who managed to dismantle it at the end of the Wars of Religion.
Only the Jeanette Tower and some impressive sections of wall still demonstrate this feudal complex's grandeur.
The Castle of Bonneval : a symbol of prestige for a thousand-year-old family
Established around 930, as shown by a stone embedded in the entrance tower's masonry, the castle of Bonneval has belonged to the eponymous family since the 11th century. Taken by Duguesclin, it was returned to the lord of Bonneval under the condition that he would pay allegiance to the king of France. After this episode, the castle started to take on the appearance we recognize today. Each of its façades tells the story of an event in the family's history.
Façade sud du Château de Bonneval en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The southwest façade is the oldest, with its characteristic medieval curtain wall joining two large towers.
The tower on the southern corner, nicknamed the Devil's Tower, was improved by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century, as its resemblance to the Pierrefonds towers demonstrates.
Château de Bonneval en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The northwest façade, restored in the 20th century, is punctuated with mullioned windows that are typical of the Renaissance.
A long gash on the wall is left over from a siege the castle underwent in the 17th century, led by a cousin who felt he had been wronged in the succession.
The castle's southwest side demonstrates its conversion into a manor house in the 18th century, with its classical layout, 18 windows carved into an almost blind façade, and terrace overlooking the moat.
Château de Bonneval en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
In the 16th century, Germain de Bonneval was close to King Louis XII, whom he had fought alongside in Italy.
He had this gate tower built in the Italianate style when he returned, as well at the sumptuous interior courtyard, which reflected his social standing.
Chambre du Roi du Château de Bonneval en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
During the Wars of Religion, Henri of Navarre, the future Henri IV, stayed in one of the castle's rooms following the battle of La Roche-l'Abeille.
It has kept the name The King's room.
Salon du château de Bonneval en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The castle regained its prestige at the end of the 19th century through Hippolyte de Bonneval, who made a fortune through a porcelain factory.
Many private mansions in Paris were destroyed by Haussmann construction during this time period. Hippolyte de Bonneval took the opportunity to buy many objects and decorations, including this 18th century woodwork and paintings attributed to Boucher.
Galerie du château de Bonneval en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
Every room in the castle preserves traces of this millennium of family history. They combine objects and decorations of different styles and periods, as shown in this gallery.
Géraud and Marta de Bonneval are passionate about continuing this history and sharing it with visitors.
The Plô tower: a declaration of temporal power over spiritual power
The town of Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche in Haute-Vienne was established in the 6th century by Aredius, who owned a Gallo-Roman villa on the site. Having become a priest, he built a monastery on his estate. Quickly proclaimed a saint, his name was changed to Yrieix, the name given to the town that developed around his monastery. In the 13th century, construction of a new collegiate church began, designed to be more imposing and dignified in order to host relics and pilgrims. The construction of the Plô Tower also began at this time, immediately opposite the collegiate church. This location was not a coincidence: its purpose was to show the viscount of Limoges' desire to assert his will over the city, which was dominated by the dean of the canons, who was greatly displeased by the tower.
Tour du Plô à Saint-Yrieix-La-Perche en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The viscount held the rights of high, medium, and low justice in Saint-Yrieix. The Plô Tower's name comes from this function, as Plô (the Occitan word for a place) where justice is administered.
The tower is architecturally similar to Châlucet, which was built at the same time.
Over the centuries, it was in turn confiscated from the viscount by the king of France, then by the canons, while the viscount's men attacked the city several times.
The situation only improved in the 15th century, when the viscount renounced his right of high justice in Saint-Yrieix. He then sold the tower, which gradually fell into ruin.
Saint-Yrieix-La-Perche en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
The Plô Tower's flooring and beams collapsed in the following century and houses were built onto its walls.
Bought by the municipality in 1994, it was listed as a Historic Monument four years later.
Tour du Plô à Saint-Yrieix-La-Perche en Haute-VienneFondation du patrimoine
Restoration work on the tower is ongoing, with the support of the Fondation du Patrimoine (French Heritage Foundation).
It will be able to open to the public in 2021, for them to learn about the place's unique history and admire the local countryside from 82 feet (25 m) high, at the top of the tower.
La tour médiévale du Plô, à Saint Yrieix la PercheFondation du patrimoine
Learn about the Plô Tower's history and its interior restorations.
Our thanks to Marta and Géraud de Bonneval and François Berland from the castle of Châlucet for their hospitality, as well as to Xavier Burguion, director of the Pays de Saint-Yrieix Intercommunal Tourism Office for his help in creating this content.
Our thanks also to Alexie Martin-Ramos from Haute-Vienne Tourism and Carine Pauliac from the Nouvelle-Aquitaine Regional Tourism Committee for their help.
